Yea or Nay on Dragging Bike Questions
#1
Yea or Nay on Dragging Bike Questions
Well since the car will be down for a while, I got the bike out. Took a couple short spins and seems the back may be fine. May try dragging it once I get the tune down on the spray.
Here's the questions:
1 Yes or no on running a front fender (looks, see pics))
2 Can bikes run in the CCC
3 Did Mark post that we need a chain guard (NHRA sissies)
4 Full face helmet for any bike ET
5 Any launching advice (have a Barnett HD clutch)
Thanks, your opinions/insight does matter.
Robert
Here's the questions:
1 Yes or no on running a front fender (looks, see pics))
2 Can bikes run in the CCC
3 Did Mark post that we need a chain guard (NHRA sissies)
4 Full face helmet for any bike ET
5 Any launching advice (have a Barnett HD clutch)
Thanks, your opinions/insight does matter.
Robert
#3
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That thing looks too sweet to drag. I would be affraid of scratching the chrome.
Although that one does not look too bad, no on the fender. It gives it more of that "Easy Rider" look.
Although that one does not look too bad, no on the fender. It gives it more of that "Easy Rider" look.
#4
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I wouldn't race it if it were my bike......... Its way too nice!
And Cindy and I both agree with no fender. You don't plan on doing much riding in wet weather do you? If you do, then go with the fender. If its just a looks issue, then go without it.
And Cindy and I both agree with no fender. You don't plan on doing much riding in wet weather do you? If you do, then go with the fender. If its just a looks issue, then go without it.
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Well since the car will be down for a while, I got the bike out. Took a couple short spins and seems the back may be fine. May try dragging it once I get the tune down on the spray.
Here's the questions:
1 Yes or no on running a front fender (looks, see pics))
2 Can bikes run in the CCC
3 Did Mark post that we need a chain guard (NHRA sissies)
4 Full face helmet for any bike ET
5 Any launching advice (have a Barnett HD clutch)
Thanks, your opinions/insight does matter.
Robert
Here's the questions:
1 Yes or no on running a front fender (looks, see pics))
2 Can bikes run in the CCC
3 Did Mark post that we need a chain guard (NHRA sissies)
4 Full face helmet for any bike ET
5 Any launching advice (have a Barnett HD clutch)
Thanks, your opinions/insight does matter.
Robert
#7
Originally Posted by Turbo Tech
Well that bike is alot of things but Drag bike.....Dam we better get the vette fixed before you hurt yourself!!!
Robert
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#9
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Originally Posted by Robert56
Well since the car will be down for a while, I got the bike out. Took a couple short spins and seems the back may be fine. May try dragging it once I get the tune down on the spray.
Here's the questions:
1 Yes or no on running a front fender (looks, see pics))
2 Can bikes run in the CCC
3 Did Mark post that we need a chain guard (NHRA sissies)
4 Full face helmet for any bike ET
5 Any launching advice (have a Barnett HD clutch)
Thanks, your opinions/insight does matter.
Robert
Here's the questions:
1 Yes or no on running a front fender (looks, see pics))
2 Can bikes run in the CCC
3 Did Mark post that we need a chain guard (NHRA sissies)
4 Full face helmet for any bike ET
5 Any launching advice (have a Barnett HD clutch)
Thanks, your opinions/insight does matter.
Robert
3. I'm pretty sure a chain guard is required to run 1/4 mi. and it must extend to the furthermost part of the rear sprocket if I recall. Cody might chime in here, he's the resident drag bike guy I think....
Mike
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I'll put a vote for yes on the front fender. You can hardly notice it, and if I was riding I would appreciate being protected from all the little rocks that get kicked up. Not to mention how bad it would suck to hit a puddle. All that motor and N2O to boot, sick! I think you will get 10's on that!!
#11
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Launching a bike:
Bring up the revs to whatever is going to work (halfway through the rev range or so)
Simultaneously pin it and let out the clutch to where it starts to take off hard without looping or spinning. Feather the clutch till you are out a ways and then don't worry about it anymore and you bang gears while slightly letting off the gas to do so. It takes A LOT of practice to get it right. You can practice with me on the 30th at Mission!
Bring up the revs to whatever is going to work (halfway through the rev range or so)
Simultaneously pin it and let out the clutch to where it starts to take off hard without looping or spinning. Feather the clutch till you are out a ways and then don't worry about it anymore and you bang gears while slightly letting off the gas to do so. It takes A LOT of practice to get it right. You can practice with me on the 30th at Mission!
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1. As for the fender, I think it is also required for track duty.
3. A chain guarded/protected from the center of the front sprocket to the center of the back sprocket. If not OEM style guard, then must be made of a minimum 1/8" aluminum.
4. Yes full face helmet required on all bikes (open cockpit vehicle) reguardless of ET.
5. NVME is pretty close on launching. First question is.... is it a hydraulic or cable clutch? That makes a difference. The first few times at the track, just launch it like you would leaving a stop light hard. That shouldn't be too aggressive for the track, until you get a feel for it. All you need is seat time/practice. Being able to launch one of these to get the maximum performance is not going to come overnight as I'm sure you are aware. The trick is slide the clutch out with a continuous fluid motion at the same time rolling on the throttle. Ideal is that you fully engage the clutch as you hit full throttle. This should be completed in aproximately the first 10 feet of the track. Hope that helps and let me know if you have anymore questions.
3. A chain guarded/protected from the center of the front sprocket to the center of the back sprocket. If not OEM style guard, then must be made of a minimum 1/8" aluminum.
4. Yes full face helmet required on all bikes (open cockpit vehicle) reguardless of ET.
5. NVME is pretty close on launching. First question is.... is it a hydraulic or cable clutch? That makes a difference. The first few times at the track, just launch it like you would leaving a stop light hard. That shouldn't be too aggressive for the track, until you get a feel for it. All you need is seat time/practice. Being able to launch one of these to get the maximum performance is not going to come overnight as I'm sure you are aware. The trick is slide the clutch out with a continuous fluid motion at the same time rolling on the throttle. Ideal is that you fully engage the clutch as you hit full throttle. This should be completed in aproximately the first 10 feet of the track. Hope that helps and let me know if you have anymore questions.
#13
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no on the fender (especially for the track)
don't think there's a rule (for the track) about a chain guard, but there is for the street
if you're gonna be going over like 130 you need full CE armor (one piece suit, or jacket zipped to the pants)
if you're going under, you can wear jeans, protective jacket, full face helmet, shoes/boots that cover the ankles, and gloves
if it's fuel infected, and has a tip over fuel shutoff, you don't need the lanyard to the kill switch,
but carbed you do.
let me know when you wanna try it out,
I wanna try my bike out for the first time too.
don't think there's a rule (for the track) about a chain guard, but there is for the street
if you're gonna be going over like 130 you need full CE armor (one piece suit, or jacket zipped to the pants)
if you're going under, you can wear jeans, protective jacket, full face helmet, shoes/boots that cover the ankles, and gloves
if it's fuel infected, and has a tip over fuel shutoff, you don't need the lanyard to the kill switch,
but carbed you do.
let me know when you wanna try it out,
I wanna try my bike out for the first time too.
#14
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Kraut - There is a NHRA rule for the chain guard and it is 120 mph for full leathers, not necessarily armored and that is when the lanyard is required as well. And at any speed it has to be a leather jacket (textile or mesh not allowed).
#15
Launching!
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This video illistrates what I was trying to explain. This guy is pretty damn good. 9.30s on a bolt on ZX-10R. I try to launch my bike exactly like this.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t=zx10r_nj.flv
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...t=zx10r_nj.flv
#17
Originally Posted by NVME
Launching a bike:
Bring up the revs to whatever is going to work (halfway through the rev range or so)
Simultaneously pin it and let out the clutch to where it starts to take off hard without looping or spinning. Feather the clutch till you are out a ways and then don't worry about it anymore and you bang gears while slightly letting off the gas to do so. It takes A LOT of practice to get it right. You can practice with me on the 30th at Mission!
Bring up the revs to whatever is going to work (halfway through the rev range or so)
Simultaneously pin it and let out the clutch to where it starts to take off hard without looping or spinning. Feather the clutch till you are out a ways and then don't worry about it anymore and you bang gears while slightly letting off the gas to do so. It takes A LOT of practice to get it right. You can practice with me on the 30th at Mission!
Thanks
Robert
#18
Originally Posted by Rockin C Racing
1. As for the fender, I think it is also required for track duty.
3. A chain guarded/protected from the center of the front sprocket to the center of the back sprocket. If not OEM style guard, then must be made of a minimum 1/8" aluminum.
4. Yes full face helmet required on all bikes (open cockpit vehicle) reguardless of ET.
5. NVME is pretty close on launching. First question is.... is it a hydraulic or cable clutch? That makes a difference. The first few times at the track, just launch it like you would leaving a stop light hard. That shouldn't be too aggressive for the track, until you get a feel for it. All you need is seat time/practice. Being able to launch one of these to get the maximum performance is not going to come overnight as I'm sure you are aware. The trick is slide the clutch out with a continuous fluid motion at the same time rolling on the throttle. Ideal is that you fully engage the clutch as you hit full throttle. This should be completed in aproximately the first 10 feet of the track. Hope that helps and let me know if you have anymore questions.
3. A chain guarded/protected from the center of the front sprocket to the center of the back sprocket. If not OEM style guard, then must be made of a minimum 1/8" aluminum.
4. Yes full face helmet required on all bikes (open cockpit vehicle) reguardless of ET.
5. NVME is pretty close on launching. First question is.... is it a hydraulic or cable clutch? That makes a difference. The first few times at the track, just launch it like you would leaving a stop light hard. That shouldn't be too aggressive for the track, until you get a feel for it. All you need is seat time/practice. Being able to launch one of these to get the maximum performance is not going to come overnight as I'm sure you are aware. The trick is slide the clutch out with a continuous fluid motion at the same time rolling on the throttle. Ideal is that you fully engage the clutch as you hit full throttle. This should be completed in aproximately the first 10 feet of the track. Hope that helps and let me know if you have anymore questions.
Robert
#19
Originally Posted by KrautBurner
no on the fender (especially for the track)
don't think there's a rule (for the track) about a chain guard, but there is for the street
if you're gonna be going over like 130 you need full CE armor (one piece suit, or jacket zipped to the pants)
if you're going under, you can wear jeans, protective jacket, full face helmet, shoes/boots that cover the ankles, and gloves
if it's fuel infected, and has a tip over fuel shutoff, you don't need the lanyard to the kill switch,
but carbed you do.
let me know when you wanna try it out,
I wanna try my bike out for the first time too.
don't think there's a rule (for the track) about a chain guard, but there is for the street
if you're gonna be going over like 130 you need full CE armor (one piece suit, or jacket zipped to the pants)
if you're going under, you can wear jeans, protective jacket, full face helmet, shoes/boots that cover the ankles, and gloves
if it's fuel infected, and has a tip over fuel shutoff, you don't need the lanyard to the kill switch,
but carbed you do.
let me know when you wanna try it out,
I wanna try my bike out for the first time too.
As for trying it out, soon. I am working on a final nitrous tune. Dual exhaust pipes and shared carb are a little tricky to get a/f just right for each cyl. This has a dual fire ignition which also offers up some unique tune challenges for the spray.
Robert
#20
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Originally Posted by Poik
Damn that guy launches hard. Eric what times do you think you will be running at the track?
I will be shooting for 9 anything @ 140ish + with my only mods being dogbones, a strap and -1 tooth up front. Stock exhaust with no nitrous.