Yep it's finally here.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/removed-locked-thread-graveyard/803903-rocking-nitrous-world-nx.html

Robert

 

Look like a another scary dry kit...... let me know how that works for you and your pistons. I will have to talk with Mike Wood next week at SEMA and see why in the hell he came out with something that didn't work 6 years ago.

 

Dry kits. That guy killed me with the "Dry port injection thing"

SAome day they will figure out that you need fuel to go with your N2O! The MAF works great for Measuring ait but not very good at freezing liquids..

 

Bottles are for babies, real men get blown!

 

real men don't need chemicals or pumps....

 

LMAO!! You guys are killing me

 

Arron, we should hook up one night next week and find a bottle of our own.
Where are you staying. Sam, James and I will be there all week carrying the Speed Secrets banner!

 

Obviously some of you have limited experiance with the EFI and lsx platform, lol. New dry record for our cars, done at the LSX Shootout, is 8.47. Only two wet cars have gone faster, so it seems to work pretty good. Also, all the top spots in the "Stock LongBlock LS6/M12 with any Power Adder", are Dry Nitrous cars, running faster than all the Turbos (except Chris), blowers and wet hits, so again seems to be working pretty well. However, this new kit is directed towards some of you whom do not understand how a dry works or how to tune a conventional dry hit. It's very easy now for any one, and for all the tuners out there that never got a grasp of the dry concept. Watch for wet usage to start to go way down. Actually if soemone could give me a good reason to go wet on our cars, I would be amazed, lol.
Robert

Oh yea, ponyeater, they (NX) are now going with a dry cause it works, and works well. You should see some of the early designs, a concept that has been used by some of us for a while, but now refined to the point that all the past issues are nil.

 

Interesting theories Robert, but it seems like there's a whole lot of "not understanding" going around.... Maybe you could explain exactly how N2O works??

 

Here's the wet vs dry thread, out of 375 posts, about 1/3 are mine, so you should be able to gleen quite clearly how n2o works and in particular my insights and views on the dry hits concerning the lsx platform. A very long read but well worth it for any one. Ok, I don't know everything, but the things I don't know, we figure them out pretty quickly right here on tech, from/with guys like you. I know ya was just being a smart azz, but so was/i am. Down time brings on the smack talk, lol.

Hey Don, can you help me with my roll bar mods I need to make? Need to add a cross bar higher than one allready in place so as my shoulder belts are at the right hieght.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/removed-locked-thread-graveyard/626209-dry-vs-wet.html

Robert

 

Hey Robert I know you are the universal expert and all but there is no dening more "fuel" has to go with the Juice or the engine starts to to melt. Fact.

Using a MAF to do it has limits.

IF I ever did Dry on a high HP motor I sure would not waste it through a MAF. I would use a BigStuff 3 or another After market system.

OH YEAH! that guy you called out? Arron? Yeah he has forgot more about juice then you might think.

 

You bet! Drop me a PM and we can "git er dun"

 

Don: I have meetings every night except Friday night early (late 9pm we have a party) Give me a shout in case things fall through.

Robert: It is not my job to educate you, we have a public school system and the internet. If you are happy with it, great! Dry only works a couple ways and freezing the maf does not work that "effeciantly" for motor "longevity" Wet systems trying to flow through the LS intake do not work that efficiantly. Direct port injection is the best with fuel! If you are running a aftermarket computer and have a fuel enrichment table for when your nitrous is activated, even though you do not have a seperate fuel soloniod it is still a wet system in my book. A true dry system was designed as just that a N20 only shot into the motor. BTW since you are a expert when the nitrous comes out of the bottle what temperature is it?

 

This post is so far out there that I will be suprised if Robert even responds to it.
Btw, my inefficent wet kit dropped my et from a 12.85 to a 11.97.
That was for just 1 run.
Pretty sure I can cut another tenth with a bit more launch practice.

 

Obviously you know not me, hehehehe, I welcome all debates, good, bad and ugly, and right or wrong I certainly can admit it. I will respond, however, I am off to see my real estate agent, it's condo time.. Nice drop in time, now go towards the end of the wet vs dry for a pictorial of the wet destruction that occurs sometmes with our EFI cars. Please tell me why the wet is better than a dry?

Pony, a quick respond, the dry hit through the neck in fact has better distribution than a tuned DP wet kit, and mucho, better than a out of the box wet DP. This has been proven with single cylinder EGTs.

Ellis, the dry through the neck is working very well upto 350rwhp shots currently, and some are moving on to larger, the limits have not been seen yet. I will be running a 350rwhp MAF based 3 stage. The DP dry and after market tuner is a good option also, espec if ya need bigger than 60lb injectors, so I do not disagree at all. I am not so sure I was calling anyone out, or maybe it was you?

Robert

 

How big of a shot are you guys talking here?
I mean I only run a 75 shot.

 

Spraying nitrous through the MAF will enable the computer and injectors to add the fuel necessary. And it works like a charm..everytime! Not sure who told you dry kits dont add fuel? The fuel is added by the computer through the injectors.

Large dry kits with Big Stuff 3 or Accel DFI or FAST XFi are the BEST way IMO. But then you have the cost of whatever DFI system you choose plus laptops and many man hours wiring. Thats overkill for a lil ole 200 shot that this kit Robert posted is desgned for.

Fact is this is the ONLY dry kit that can control Af ratio without adding some additional box or controller. And this kit does it an a strictly MECHANICAL way. There will be no electronic failures. Its a very simple system and reliability should be reflected by this.

The most reliable 300 shot I EVER ran was a 300 dry right down the MAF. I ran that car in well over 400 races at 650-750 rwhp trapping in the 140s without so much as a hicuup. I fifnally had to pull the motor because the thrust bearing was wore out. Pistons looked new. My direct port 300-400 that I would run was prone to flow issues and was much more finicky than my dry.

I have setup 300+ shots on many cars, direct ports, dry, combos of both etc etc. The dry has ALWAYS been VERY effective very reliable and very simple.

If I owned an LS1 and was going to stay at less than 800 crank HP (total), dry over the MAf is the way to go.

 

Ponyeater??? this post is a bit far out there?


Please explain your "efficiency". What process or trait makes one hit more "efficient" over another. And please describe in detail that "efficiency".

I have NEVER seen a non efficient nitrous system myself. Only ones that are out of tune or arent actually flowing the amount of nitrous that was believed. Are you saying that "atomization" is causing inneficency? are you saying that somehow that having the nitrous added upstream (at the MAF) is different than downstream (at the intake port)? What is it that makes it inneficeint? I would like to hear that...maybe ill learn something?

Have you ever done bac to back testing with wet, dry and direct port? I have.

Anyways...the kit Robert posted is typically intended for avg users that will spray from 50-200 that dont want to spray fuel down the intake but dont like the crap shoot of traditional dry kits as far as Af ratio and that DONT want the hassle and added cost of a direct port.

Its not the end all be all...but its a great option.

 

I guess if my post is that far out there my responces to this will probly fall short of the goal....... Nevermind, I do not feel I am doing any good in this thread. Happy nitrousing.

PS: yes I have done back to back testing for what it is worth This kit seems like the endall to make nitrous safe easy option (if there was such a thing) but 50-200 is what your saying and robert is saying 350hp? talk about left field...

Edit: If you are going to be at SEMA or here in the NW and would like to sit down and discuss nitrous theory I welcome it, I don't have the time or patience to sit in front of a keyboard and have a long drawn out discussion.

 

Left field, how about left foot in the mouth, lol; Man if you had actually read the intro thread over at tech you would see how to spray a 350 with this kit and a dual stage to boot. Here's how, simply remove the existing kits intagrated noid, replace with a "t" or better yet, a "y" and now you can add dual noids and spray to your hearts desire. Furthermore, if you want to run a wet stage also, then the NX MAF kit will bolt up with the dry kit. think of the possibilities, a dry, dry wet, and you can use the a/f **** to final tune one or all, it just doesn't get much better. All in one contained MAF package. I'm still coming for your 9.7 time, hehe.

Robert