Mr Incredible

From what I remember, for each coat it's best to start at another place so one place doesn't stick out.

There are different ways according to who you listen to or what book you're looking at. I didn't have any trouble starting at the top and working my way around and down. I did the top first, then the hood, then the back, then long walks back and forth along the side until time to get on hands & knees to get the under bits.

Always keep in mind any particular needs for finish or vehicle.

Purchase and learn inside and out several How-To-Paint-Your-Car books. They all give a lot of good info, but you won't find it all in one single place.

Cts-Voodoo

This is absolutely perfect.

BradsLS1

As far as painting technique I always go by which the air is flowing. If the air is flowing from the front of the car back I start in the front and work back this is because if you start in the back and work front everything in the back will have overspray on it. I don't know if you plan on using a both but it all depends on the air. You have to think about if I paint this how will it affect the other parts. Another thing I like to do is paint one panel at a time that way if I run out of paint I don't get a dry spot on two panels. For instance if your are painting a the fender don't spray the door as well stop your pauses in between the door and fender that way by the time you get to the door it hasn't for one all ready had a partial coat on it which might cause a run. Plus it helps with dry spots if that makes sense. But like I said all air flow.

BradsLS1

Oh I get my paint supplies from Car Quest. I'm in Kansas City I don't know if they have the same stuff over there. Sanders paint Etc. We get Dupont chroma base, Chroma one and Centari paints from ours. That Sata Gun you have is a awesome gun same thing I have no problems. I shoot everything through that thing primer, base clear, and single stage with no problems. It doesn't like etching primer though. I think I have the 1.3mm tip. But you shouldn't need etching unless bear metal.

Cts-Voodoo

While I generally agree with the previous statement, to those painting metallics, pearls and especially candies: DO NOT paint by panel.

As for the air flow thing, so long as youre not using ultra high speed hardeners and reducers in the clear, you should be fine on over spray. In terms of base, a light application of a tack cloth in between coats will do wonders - especially if your booth doesnt draw as much air as you might like it to.

BradsLS1

My bad I didn't relize that it was your gun CTS. I love that gun. I have a lot of old guys tell me that for the price of mine it should paint by itself. Lol. I understand the whole tack cloth thing for the base but when you get into the clear aspect a tack rag is not going to help. I don't know but it just doesn't make sense for me to do it that way. If you do the top then hood then back when you spray the side its going to blow overspray everywhere on the hood and everything toward the middle. If you start this way its just flows lets say I start in the front you do the whole front clip first both sides then start on top down to the bottom of the front doors on both sides then the back quarters and meet in the very back. To me it just makes more sense. But you know to each is own. For the panel thing I have never had a problem doing it that way. But then again the only time I had a problem with dual panels is when I used single stage. I just found that it does just as good with base coats even with metallics. Metallics aren't that big of deal. The only time I find that it might be a problem with me is when I'm trying match it in a repair because of all the factors. Air pressure temp etc. As far as painting a whole car no problem. Now candies I have only sprayed them once thats ruff. But again to each is own. I always tell the new guys find what works for you and do that as long as the results are the same.

Cts-Voodoo

Sorry Brad, I didnt mean to insult ya.

BradsLS1

Oh no big deal man my feeling aren't hurt. I like it when people have different ideas on how to do things.

Firebird Phoenix

iTrader: (6)

I'm still weary about going into this project. I bought that electric sander I linked on the first page of the thread as i'm going to sand my car/bondo/etc of prepping at my house. I'm just scared i'm going to messed it up and thinking of just paying someone else to paint my car...Idk how was it for you guys the first time you painted your car? Another reason why i'm deterred is i'll only beable to work on my car a weekend at a time (friends booth we made in his barn...) on saturday/sunday so how long will this take? Idk I still have time to think it out just wondering if the cost of buying all the paint guns/supplies and painting my car myself will really save me more money, but having a bigger headache than paying a shop (even after I do all the sanding) to paint my car..

Cts-Voodoo

If all you have to do is scuff the car and spray it without body work it would take an experienced guy a day. Might take you two weeks. With body work it might take you a month only working weekends.

technical

The first car I painted was my '90 camaro. I painted the nose. I didn't really care about whether I fucked it up because it was the nose of a '90 camaro...(it saw a couple parking curbs up close a few times).

Plan on taking infinitely more time than you had hoped and you'll end up with the patience to do this. I prepped the **** out of that nose and painted that thing beautifully. I was so pleased with my handywork until I burnt through the paint buffing it up after wetsanding it. I then learned where the truly hard part begins. Then after I managed to 'cover up' my screwup I managed to scrape a parking curb a few months later. Oh well. That's why they call it experience.

Firebird Phoenix

iTrader: (6)

My problem, or should I say deterrence of doing it myself is as you see in my sig I converted from 93-97 to 98-02 trans am body style. The panels are just "on there" right now to at least drive. I know i'll have to remove the panels to do a good job at painting but the aligning body panels and getting it right is to much of a pain to me...Would it make sense to paint the car myself and then pay a shop to align my panels if I could do it myself? Thats really the main reason on top of some nervousness of not wanting to try this myself...

Cts-Voodoo

Pay the shop to align everything if you cant do it yourself. Once its all lined up, then spray it.

Firebird Phoenix

iTrader: (6)

I was under the impression you shouldn't paint a car with ALL the body panels on..? Since it couldn't cover everything between body lines (like fender to bumper)...or did I hear wrong?

Cts-Voodoo

I prefer to spray cars together. Some like to take them apart. Theres reasoning for both:

Together - with the types of paint jobs I do; custom pearls, kandies, high end sprays, youre looking at a color that you cannot panel match - they have to be blended.
However, with the car together I cannot paint the back sides of the body panels, which on say; a 32 ford might prove an issue as the back side of the fender needs to be treated to eliminate rust. What I told people to do before the car was sent to me was to under coat or use a coat of paint (it doesnt have to be perfect) and assemble the car just after bodywork. Thus the rust problem is solved.

Tearing the car apart - I think this is stupid with the risk of scratches, dents and other mishaps that (always) happen. The idea is the part will be entirely covered by the color and thus is a better paint job.
However - all parts that you buy today are coated so they cannot rust, and the body panels come stock with a coating, so I dont see the point.

Now if its a bumper, yeah if youre blending a tiny spot, Im going to take it off, shoot the small blemish and clear the whole thing, but if its a new bumper and needs to be blended into the fenders, hood, etc - you better believe its staying on the car.

As for the paint not getting into the cracks and crevices, whoever told you that hasnt ever painted anything. You might have to do a little "dancing" with the paint gun to get a nice even coat in a deep crevice, but Ive never had any issue painting grilles, door handles, bumper to fender spaces, etc.

Firebird Phoenix

iTrader: (6)

So to clarify...

Your saying i'll be ok if I pay some shop to align all my body panels/get it perfect as if it was painted.....and then I sand/primer/paint/etc with ALL the body panels on and it will look ok even with going to a different color??? Because if so...the that builds my confidence and I will take it to a shop then paint it myself still

Cts-Voodoo

calm down lol. Its just plastic and metal and youre going to sand it down and paint it all as if it were the same thing. so "yes" would be the short answer to that question.

Firebird Phoenix

iTrader: (6)

I know i'm over worrying lol. I just still heard (and kinda think myself) that if the panels are together, say where the fender meets the bumper that its not going to look right if i'm going to a different color with leaving the panels on the car? But i'll take your word on it.

Cts-Voodoo

If you prep it all out everything will work out fine. Paint is not transparent (well unless its a true candy paint which a novice would NOT attempt)

technical

What makes painting with the car completely assembled more difficult than apart is trying to get the base and clear on the edges enough that it isn't too thin. But that's small potatoes compared to assembling the car and realizing the paint doesn't 'flow' the same way from panel to panel.