Rim Powder Coating Question
#1
Staging Lane
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Rim Powder Coating Question
I decided try to powder coat one of my junk aluminum spare tire rims as a mock up to see what it would look like. I used Gloss White and am using the electric powder coating gun.
For some reason the powder didn't flow in one area. How can i fix this? Can i reshoot it? What is the typical way to fix something like this?
BTW a 30" kitchen oven was used in ~30 degree F outside temperature, set to 475 degrees F (never got to that temp, light remained on). I used a good degresser before applying the powder.
Thanks for the help.
For some reason the powder didn't flow in one area. How can i fix this? Can i reshoot it? What is the typical way to fix something like this?
BTW a 30" kitchen oven was used in ~30 degree F outside temperature, set to 475 degrees F (never got to that temp, light remained on). I used a good degresser before applying the powder.
Thanks for the help.
#3
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In the area where the powder did not stick, scuff it down to bear metal. More than likely there was something still on the rim like paint or something. Take a red scotch bright pad and scuff the entire wheel with Purple Power. The rim will look dull. Thoroughly rinse the rim and make sure you completely dryi. Preheat the oven until it reaches around 325. Put it in the oven and heat the rim to around 175 degrees. Pull it out and reshoot the powder on the rim. Put it back in the oven and turn it up to 375-400 let it fully cure. Since it is a rim it will take a while. You can leave it in for 45 - 60 minutes to be sure it is fully cured.
#4
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I would get yourself an IR temp gun if you are not sure the oven is working properly. if you managed to get that wheel to 475 you would more than likely mess up the powder. All powders except acrylics have "over cure protection", but that refers to the curing time, not temperature. You can typically cure a non acrylic powder for at least twice the duration the manufacturer recommends, but excessive curing temps there is no protection for. Curing begins at part metal temp, not oven temp, you need to check your substrate temp with an IR when curing if you don't trust the oven.
Powder can refuse to stick to areas of things for all kinds of reasons, often times inexplicable ones. If you are shooting cold and notice this and cannot get your gun to stick the powder then do as 2001 suggested and hot flock it. blow the part clean again, heat the part and then shoot it. Powder will gum up and start to flow out at 175-200 degrees PMT. Personally if I hot flock something I do it at full curing temp of the substrate, but that can be problematic for beginners in terms of runs and drips.
Hope this helps.
Powder can refuse to stick to areas of things for all kinds of reasons, often times inexplicable ones. If you are shooting cold and notice this and cannot get your gun to stick the powder then do as 2001 suggested and hot flock it. blow the part clean again, heat the part and then shoot it. Powder will gum up and start to flow out at 175-200 degrees PMT. Personally if I hot flock something I do it at full curing temp of the substrate, but that can be problematic for beginners in terms of runs and drips.
Hope this helps.
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In the area where the powder did not stick, scuff it down to bear metal. More than likely there was something still on the rim like paint or something. Take a red scotch bright pad and scuff the entire wheel with Purple Power. The rim will look dull. Thoroughly rinse the rim and make sure you completely dryi. Preheat the oven until it reaches around 325. Put it in the oven and heat the rim to around 175 degrees. Pull it out and reshoot the powder on the rim. Put it back in the oven and turn it up to 375-400 let it fully cure. Since it is a rim it will take a while. You can leave it in for 45 - 60 minutes to be sure it is fully cured.
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