Repairing Rear
#1
Repairing Rear
I'll be working on getting the GTO back on the road very soon and I have a few things I need help with. The rear where the trunk locks into is bent in pretty bad as you can see and is the only damage to the bottom part besides the drivers side. The spare tire well is not damaged at all and neither is anything that is parallel with the ground. My question is can I chop off the damaged parts and weld a new piece back on? Also, how do I tell if other parts of the frame are damaged?
Thanks,
Shane
Thanks,
Shane
#4
looks like it missed the frame rail, definatly need a qtr, rear bodypanel, decklid, and fender, might even need a package tray as well, just make sure you pull it before you cut it apart
#5
measure measure measure and measure again yes you can cut the quarter and rear body out its just spot welds so just drill them out and weld new one in. i would pay to have it laseed out on a frame machine before you start cutting this way you know everything is straight before you start
#6
I have another GTO from a junk yard with front end damage, so I can take whatever I need for the rear. Any other advice? I don't know how to weld, but I have a friend who does.
#7
frame work varys between shop and car if your buddy has never put a quarter on i would find some one who has done it before it effects the deck lid gad door gap windows and if not done right you could have major problems. i just did one on a honda kid tried doing it him self and caused more problems than needed he payed twice as much to fix his mistakes and to put a new one on then i would have charged him to put it on in the first place
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#8
frame work varys between shop and car if your buddy has never put a quarter on i would find some one who has done it before it effects the deck lid gad door gap windows and if not done right you could have major problems. i just did one on a honda kid tried doing it him self and caused more problems than needed he payed twice as much to fix his mistakes and to put a new one on then i would have charged him to put it on in the first place
#9
looks like the front end is swayed over, and looks like it did tag the drivers side frame rail, didnt insurance total this car??? way to much damage to even attmept to fix, not to mention frame labor where i work is up to 90 an hour, not to mention thousands of dollars i n parts and labor
once that car is pulled back, i see this inner and outer wheel house, wheel house liner, suspension might be whacked, rear body panle, tail light pocket, deck lid, bumper, all the r&i work, trunk interior, what about the passenger side 1/4, passenger side tail lights, dude i would get your modifications off and tow it right to a junk yard,
or i hope you have a REALLY big bank account becase if you plan on fixing this wreck it will be close to 9-10k
once that car is pulled back, i see this inner and outer wheel house, wheel house liner, suspension might be whacked, rear body panle, tail light pocket, deck lid, bumper, all the r&i work, trunk interior, what about the passenger side 1/4, passenger side tail lights, dude i would get your modifications off and tow it right to a junk yard,
or i hope you have a REALLY big bank account becase if you plan on fixing this wreck it will be close to 9-10k
#10
It will be a drag car that I'll drive a little bit on the street. I already have a rear end to another GTO from a junk yard that my buddy owns. I'm not towing it to a junk yard. How much would it be for a frame alignment and labor on this do you think?
#11
If he has a whole other GTO wouldn't it be easier to just use the whole back half of the car? Combine the two cars into one? Ive seen it done very successfully a couple times in a body shop next to where I used to work.
#13
you have to do all the panels for the passenger rear quarter of the car, plus the other side is smashed anyways. I tried to explain, but this was easier. Cut around the red line area and use everything from your donor car from there back. Do the same for the inside, cut behind where the floor is messed up.
#14
lol, you think doing a rear clip a ENTIRE REAR OF THE CAR is easy,lol your sadly mistaken, you dont need to clip the rear of the car, the hit didnt buckle both frame rails, crunch both 1/4s so on and so on,,
race car or not it still has to be repaired correctly, nothing can be done sloppy, frame labor where i work is at 90 an hour and no shop or no body man like my self would take this car on a rack, pull it and off it goes, we start we finish the job, we would need to fit, all new sheet metal, all the structual metal, everything, and then it can go back to you
example we finish the car, and leave it in primer or finish it and leave it just welded up you get it back,
like i stated in beofre post close to 9k to fix give or take
race car or not it still has to be repaired correctly, nothing can be done sloppy, frame labor where i work is at 90 an hour and no shop or no body man like my self would take this car on a rack, pull it and off it goes, we start we finish the job, we would need to fit, all new sheet metal, all the structual metal, everything, and then it can go back to you
example we finish the car, and leave it in primer or finish it and leave it just welded up you get it back,
like i stated in beofre post close to 9k to fix give or take
#16
well you bring me a junk yard rear clip, and this crunched car, i have to tear down the front end and rear end, once its torn down, THERE IS ALWAYS MORE DAMAGE, i`ll get it up on the rack, pulled make is square, at least 6 hours frame time, so due to the extra damage, thats on you more money for parts and labor
now the junk yard clip, easliy 2 days of drilling, cutting, more drilling, more cutting, dont forget about the panel bond so heat is applied to break free panel bond, and what do you think a 1/4 just jumps off, even after 15yrs its a pain in the ***** to get a junk yard 1/4 off with out leaving a dent or 2, plus its a junk yard 1/4, rust/dents,
plus we have to clean and prep, the new/old metal, not to mention once the car is pulled, all that damaged metal is drilled, cut, grinded, torched, then its more cleaning and more preping of metal to get ready for welding and panle bond
then we dry fit everything, take it back off to weld, weld in stages, so ya see and get my point, ya it might be close to 9k, with parts,labor, painting,
so ya must be rich lol to want to fix this car
now the junk yard clip, easliy 2 days of drilling, cutting, more drilling, more cutting, dont forget about the panel bond so heat is applied to break free panel bond, and what do you think a 1/4 just jumps off, even after 15yrs its a pain in the ***** to get a junk yard 1/4 off with out leaving a dent or 2, plus its a junk yard 1/4, rust/dents,
plus we have to clean and prep, the new/old metal, not to mention once the car is pulled, all that damaged metal is drilled, cut, grinded, torched, then its more cleaning and more preping of metal to get ready for welding and panle bond
then we dry fit everything, take it back off to weld, weld in stages, so ya see and get my point, ya it might be close to 9k, with parts,labor, painting,
so ya must be rich lol to want to fix this car
#17
bdyman is right on about this. I do this **** for a living as well and he couldn't be more correct. A job such as this, in the hands of a professional, is roughly 2-3 days of solid work depending on hidden damage and any other unexpected things. And that is not even including the paint work.
And the whole rear clip idea is just plain stupid. Especially only cutting the quarters in half and welding the used parts where you cut it off at.
Actually last week I just painted a job really similar to this. It was a 2002 Monte Carlo, all junk yard parts. We replaced the Decklid, spoiler, rear bumper, rt. quarter, inner wheel house/quarter, rear body pannel, and repaired the Lt. quarter. I will get some of details on our estimate like costs and labor hours tomorrow to give you a decient idea, but I do know that just on my end the paint work was 18.4hrs. in of it's self.
And the whole rear clip idea is just plain stupid. Especially only cutting the quarters in half and welding the used parts where you cut it off at.
Actually last week I just painted a job really similar to this. It was a 2002 Monte Carlo, all junk yard parts. We replaced the Decklid, spoiler, rear bumper, rt. quarter, inner wheel house/quarter, rear body pannel, and repaired the Lt. quarter. I will get some of details on our estimate like costs and labor hours tomorrow to give you a decient idea, but I do know that just on my end the paint work was 18.4hrs. in of it's self.
Last edited by cvalliere; 02-17-2009 at 08:44 PM.
#18
****** right dude, people think our job is so easy a monkey can do it, you hold a drill and do that for hours on end,
like i said labor rates where i work are 90 for frame, and 65 for body 55 for paint, plus the junk yard 3/4 clip, not to mention the front end looks like its really swayed over, this is easily 2-3 weeks of work, i dunno dude to me not worth it
like i said labor rates where i work are 90 for frame, and 65 for body 55 for paint, plus the junk yard 3/4 clip, not to mention the front end looks like its really swayed over, this is easily 2-3 weeks of work, i dunno dude to me not worth it
#20
****** right dude, people think our job is so easy a monkey can do it, you hold a drill and do that for hours on end,
like i said labor rates where i work are 90 for frame, and 65 for body 55 for paint, plus the junk yard 3/4 clip, not to mention the front end looks like its really swayed over, this is easily 2-3 weeks of work, i dunno dude to me not worth it
like i said labor rates where i work are 90 for frame, and 65 for body 55 for paint, plus the junk yard 3/4 clip, not to mention the front end looks like its really swayed over, this is easily 2-3 weeks of work, i dunno dude to me not worth it
Sorry for the off topic.
About the the goat..... let her go man.