LadyDriven

I've never painted a car in my life, but am going to attempt to paint my TA satin black soon. The paint is bubbling a bit on the doors, hood, and roof, and after posting pictures on here I was told its something called solvent pop, and I'll need to sand all the way down to the bare surface in those spots. The fenders however seem to be fairly unaffected, so I'm wondering how to prep them? Do they need to be sanded bare as well? What grit should I start with/finish with? Any help appreciated!

MUSTANGBRKR02

iTrader: (91)

Just remember if you sand it down to feather the paint in. Also to build up the area with primer. May want to see if the community college offers a short class. I opted for a body guy who does it on the side who is showing me the ropes.

LadyDriven

I'll be going to school for auto body in the fall, so I'd really hate to pay someone to do it 6 months before I start! So far I've just scuffed down what I can. I started with 220, which I'm really hoping wasnt too rough, then am going to move up and sand again, then primer, then paint. Ugh. Nervous as hell.

Amanda

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

220 is fine if you are planning on putting primer over those surfaces. I use 180, so your good there. The panels that are good, you could get away with scotch brite(red) which is equal to 400 grit. Or 400 grit sandpaper. Be sure to use a sealer over the parts that have been taken down to the bar surface. Dont want that contamination coming back. If you have any other questions about grit, or materials let me know.

sworaz

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like you have your hands full, good luck.

Anthony Williams

iTrader: (3)

If your painting anywhere but in a booth, wet down the floor before you start spraying, keeps the dust down.

bdyman

using 220 is too fine to be snading down with, i hope your using a D.A. and know how to use a D.A. properly, that tool if used in the wrong hands can do some damage, like flat spot on a curved panle, gouging of the panle, leaving HUGE divets in the panle

i would start with 120, then go to 180, i hope your going to fix all the dents, chips, rust, what have you as you go along, the doors i would be careful using the D.A. since they are SMC, use 120 and 180 to get the material off faster

using 220 you will burn through boxes of D.A. paper and its to fine to prep a panle, what iam saying is using 120 if i know its a repaint i want to remove as much of the old material on the panle, more build up of material is a bad thing and the end result will look like a retard did it, plus you run the chance of crows feet, lifting, allot of problems

that why i like to use a rougher grit, then 2 coats of primer, today`s primer is high build high soild product, if this car is clean and just has chips, small door dings, 2 coats of primer is fine to apply and prep for paint, i like to finsh all my bondo work in 220 keep the cost of material down and gives a better result

its not as easy as it sounds, using a D.A. the correct way takes someoen to teach you in perso not online, painting is the same hands on, body work is also a hands on learning trade, we all can sit here and type until our fingers fall off, but us journeymen should be by your side teaching as you do the work

see my point

Ocala93TA

iTrader: (9)

sounds like your car was the same as mine when i started took me awhile to sand and prime and sand and prime but dont be nervouse this how it can turn out i painted this in a garage in about a hour or so

LadyDriven

Your car looks awesome, I love it.

I've just been sanding everything by hand in my living room (my roomates hate me...). I don't expect this to look great, I just want to remove the hundreds of little clearcoat bubbles my car has. Poor girl looks like she has acne, its disgusting.

Ocala93TA

iTrader: (9)

By hand in the living room the roof will be hard to do wish you luck there you could go alittlee heavy on the first sanding to get rid of the clear coat then come back with a lighter sand paper to smooth out the deep scratches should save you some arm strength and time . If you can buy atleast a electric palm sander do it you will see a nicer and faster outcome .

LadyDriven

Yeah, I'm doing all the removable panels in the living room. Done the fenders and mirrors so far, doing the spoiler and front and rear bumpers next week. My boyfriend has an electric sander he said I can use to do the rest of the body, should make it a bit quicker.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Decide what paint your going to use and read the tech manual for that paint system. It will give you clear instructions on how to prep. They break it down step by step and tell you what grit to use, flash time etc.

Sanding isn't just about making it smooth and removing bad areas it's about prepping the surface for the paint to adhere to and primer and sealer and paint all require different grits.

I used HOK paint and it was very specific with its requirements.

ninjai_ruken

I will be painting my Comp TA, This summer. My dad and I just installed a paint booth in his shop. I also just found out, my Comp TA was in an accident that was hidden from Car Fax. I found out the state my car was originally purchased in (I am 4th owner) and had someone run a vin check. Turns out, it was in a front end collision. Nothing to major. I found out it needed a new Front Bumper, Right Fender and Hood. Paint is starting to peel on the bumper. Since I plan on keeping this car until the day I die, I would really love to be the first person to own a Murdered out Comp TA. Buuutttt seeing as everyone would hate me and Im a lover not a fighter I am going to re paint her the stock silver

Ocala93TA

iTrader: (9)

I say do what YOU like dont worry about everyone eles wants you to do with your own car ! Are you going with the rims and radio and interrior everyone wants it to have also ?

ninjai_ruken

Good Point, and this I have considered before. Like I said Im not worried about the value seeing as I am keeping the car until the day I die. But I am also not sure if I want to murder her out either. Decisions Decisions

LadyDriven

I really like the look of your car! I'll trade ya, and you can murder out my black car

Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

you have GOT to post pics of this work in the living room!!!

KTK Z28

iTrader: (6)

220 is too rough if your planning to paint right over that. Especially with any type of black.

You should really strip the paint completely off of the areas that are bubbling, otherwise you run the risk of it coming back later through the new paint. Sounds like you've got a case of bad solvent pop.

LadyDriven

I was going to go over it with something in the 400 range, then 600, then primer, then satin black

The bubbled spots will be taken down to bare material. I'm NOT looking forward to that

223HAWK

iTrader: (11)

Depending on what kind of paint products..and being black..this is how I do it:

All paints shrink..i dont care what they are..

PPG and Speis..shink just as fast as cheap *** Nason paints do..

Nason is fine for a budget..Iv used it..My first car..6 years later still looks as good as the day It was done..87 GTA Trans Am..Won a few awards with it..I was 15..Used Nason Base and Clear..Never had an issue with it..
I like Spies personally..

but anyway:

If Priming (needs body work..ect)
Black..Needs to be blocked by hand..D/As are for body shops and to get **** done asap

Get a good straight sanding block
Start sanding with 180, then go to 220.
Sand off all the old paint..Stripper works best but I would suggest it if youve never done it..


Make sure you sand your 180 scratches out..Over time it will shrink and they will be seen I promis

After the 220 Your ready to clean and prime it

I Block Primer with 500 then go to 600 in a wet/dry sand paper and I wet sand it..keeps the paper cleaner and last longer...

Then you can start sealing or laying a base coat..

PM me for pics of my car and others Iv done..I dont own a $$$$$$$$$ dollar paint booth nor a $$$$ paint shop..

My 3 car garage is were I do it all..and Its all in prep work and taking time.