clearcote burn thru question
clearcote burn thru question On a friend’s car, which is a 2 stage factory original gm paint, it appears the passenger's door seems to have been re-cleared at some point. This fact is evident by a seam which appears where the factory door molding was removed and a clear "seam" is evident. Its appears someone burnt thru the last coat of clear in one small spot about the size of a half dollar and hit the previous layer of clear, but other than the lines dividing the two layers of clear in a cloud like object, is there any way to repair this area other than to prep the surface and reshoot the entire panel?
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From: Oregon
On a friend’s car, which is a 2 stage factory original gm paint, it appears the passenger's door seems to have been re-cleared at some point. This fact is evident by a seam which appears where the factory door molding was removed and a clear "seam" is evident. Its appears someone burnt thru the last coat of clear in one small spot about the size of a half dollar and hit the previous layer of clear, but other than the lines dividing the two layers of clear in a cloud like object, is there any way to repair this area other than to prep the surface and reshoot the entire panel?
Blend requires some talent but here is how it kindof works. general mix for clear is 4 parts clear 1 part hardner. Blending is 4 parts reducer to about 1 part already mixed clear> This does change from painter to painter
First thing to understand is that all paint (unless its a classic original) is atleast 2 stage (base/clear) you can easily fix without spraying the whole panel. The easiest cheat is to mix you clear and spray the bad area then dump clear out of cup (dont clean cup or gun) put some med reducer in the cup and spray again. Basically this is blend the clear into the old without painting whole panel.
Blend requires some talent but here is how it kindof works. general mix for clear is 4 parts clear 1 part hardner. Blending is 4 parts reducer to about 1 part already mixed clear> This does change from painter to painter
Blend requires some talent but here is how it kindof works. general mix for clear is 4 parts clear 1 part hardner. Blending is 4 parts reducer to about 1 part already mixed clear> This does change from painter to painter
I would be careful doing it that way. The only reason i say this is because over time the area could become apparent again. Ive seen this happen some when trying to melt in edges with reducer. See if your paint manufacturer that you are gonna use has some sort of blending agent that you spray on to melt in the edges. It's made for small damage repair and works well if you follow the directions
First thing to understand is that all paint (unless its a classic original) is atleast 2 stage (base/clear) you can easily fix without spraying the whole panel. The easiest cheat is to mix you clear and spray the bad area then dump clear out of cup (dont clean cup or gun) put some med reducer in the cup and spray again. Basically this is blend the clear into the old without painting whole panel.
Blend requires some talent but here is how it kindof works. general mix for clear is 4 parts clear 1 part hardner. Blending is 4 parts reducer to about 1 part already mixed clear> This does change from painter to painter
Blend requires some talent but here is how it kindof works. general mix for clear is 4 parts clear 1 part hardner. Blending is 4 parts reducer to about 1 part already mixed clear> This does change from painter to painter
They make a blender in a rattle can. You prep the area. Keep it small throw the color on the area. Clear it, then use the blender at the edges of clear. Then you can wheel it when its dry.
Kinda hard to explain online but its much easier seeing it done.
If it's a metallic color then its more than likely bc/cc. You would be able to tell if it was single stage metallic because more than likely the metallics wouldn't look even. Besides noone these days even sprays a metallic single stage. I don't even know of a paint manufacturer that offers a metallic single stage because of the difficultly getting the metallics to appear right when sprayed
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1000-1200 paper with little water and orbital 6" sander... go slow and stop if you see color slurry... as long as the slurry is milky white you are only in clear... once you have a smooth surface, cc it... i have gotten away with krylon clear on some smaller panels or corners then buff them...
Banned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 99
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From: Oregon
Wrong. It could of been repainted with single stage. Just cause single stage was used on classics doesn't mean the person that repainted it wanted to get lazy and single statge it.
They make a blender in a rattle can. You prep the area. Keep it small throw the color on the area. Clear it, then use the blender at the edges of clear. Then you can wheel it when its dry.
Kinda hard to explain online but its much easier seeing it done.
They make a blender in a rattle can. You prep the area. Keep it small throw the color on the area. Clear it, then use the blender at the edges of clear. Then you can wheel it when its dry.
Kinda hard to explain online but its much easier seeing it done.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 99
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
If it's a metallic color then its more than likely bc/cc. You would be able to tell if it was single stage metallic because more than likely the metallics wouldn't look even. Besides noone these days even sprays a metallic single stage. I don't even know of a paint manufacturer that offers a metallic single stage because of the difficultly getting the metallics to appear right when sprayed
Freefallin1 and I seem to be on the same page on alot of things! Why in the hell would you ever use a rattle can clear on a car? I don't even use a rattle can clear in door jambs which is proven to be effective by BASF who spends millions a year on product innovations and technology. I just don't do it because I stand by my work and I am not about to take a chance on my name getting a bad reputation just bc I used some cheap materials
Keep in mind guys, the guy is just looking to patch it up until he can save up to get his car repainted, not pass off the car as pristine new time capsule.
Here is a pic, very hard to photograph but you can see the dividing line just under the reflection of the brinkman light...
Here is a pic, very hard to photograph but you can see the dividing line just under the reflection of the brinkman light...
Last edited by 99'CajunFirehawk157; Oct 24, 2010 at 11:41 AM.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 99
Likes: 1
From: Oregon
Keep in mind guys, the guy is just looking to patch it up until he can save up to get his car repainted, not pass off the car as pristine new time capsule.
Here is a pic, very hard to photograph but you can see the dividing line just under the reflection of the brinkman light...
Here is a pic, very hard to photograph but you can see the dividing line just under the reflection of the brinkman light...