My Complete Paint Job **LOTSA PICS**
07-15-2011, 10:13 PM
#22
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Yes, your bondo will most likely shrink back in the holes. And when you say good enough with the bondo, I hope you mean it is right, LOL. If you feel anything at all, it will be amplified with paint. As a helper, put a rag or even a piece of paper on your hand and run it over the repairs. The paper helps amplify any imperfections.
Also, what are you using to fill in the gaps? Is it panel bond or something? I just want to make sure you are not using something that is going to swell, shrink and or crack in the future.
Also, what are you using to fill in the gaps? Is it panel bond or something? I just want to make sure you are not using something that is going to swell, shrink and or crack in the future.
07-16-2011, 07:34 AM
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Yes, your bondo will most likely shrink back in the holes. And when you say good enough with the bondo, I hope you mean it is right, LOL. If you feel anything at all, it will be amplified with paint. As a helper, put a rag or even a piece of paper on your hand and run it over the repairs. The paper helps amplify any imperfections.
Also, what are you using to fill in the gaps? Is it panel bond or something? I just want to make sure you are not using something that is going to swell, shrink and or crack in the future.
Also, what are you using to fill in the gaps? Is it panel bond or something? I just want to make sure you are not using something that is going to swell, shrink and or crack in the future.
As for filling the gaps, I'm not exactly sure what you are referring to. If you're talking about the front bumper I used the same stuff that I used to mold the license plate, 3m Semi-rigid plastic repair. I've heard only great things about it and my jobber recommended it to me for this.
Bondo brand lol. Not the most high quality stuff out there. I thought all bondo was created equal, but now I know better.
Last edited by andrewhlr; 07-16-2011 at 07:49 AM.
07-16-2011, 07:49 AM
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Some more...
Came out with surprisingly little orange peel.
Ever wonder what a flat black ws6 would look like?
A little too much guide coat lol.
All the tape is where there are pin holes.
Looking somewhat better...
This is getting there too.
Came out with surprisingly little orange peel.
Ever wonder what a flat black ws6 would look like?
A little too much guide coat lol.
All the tape is where there are pin holes.
Looking somewhat better...
This is getting there too.
07-16-2011, 08:00 AM
#26
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And finally, the latest pics...
Don't know what happened to the hood. It has two huge bumps in it.
A little sneak preview. Just wetted the primer.
Most of the car is final sanded with 600g. Just need to respray the burn throughs, then ready for color!
Looks like just a couple more coats and she's done.
Don't know what happened to the hood. It has two huge bumps in it.
A little sneak preview. Just wetted the primer.
Most of the car is final sanded with 600g. Just need to respray the burn throughs, then ready for color!
Looks like just a couple more coats and she's done.
Last edited by andrewhlr; 07-26-2011 at 06:00 PM.
07-16-2011, 10:52 AM
#28
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You can just fill them in with a mig welder if you have one. Otherwise you should use something that is not porous(like mentioned above bondo absorbs moisture). I would use panel bond (3m epoxy in duramix tubes) or at least a fiberglass bondo as a base.
07-16-2011, 10:54 AM
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It's already almost fully prepped, so I would prefer if I could just apply something to the back of the panel. Any ideas such as undercoating? and would that be enough?
07-16-2011, 10:56 AM
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Oh and the cracks I was referring to were the gap in the front plate and the fender/front bumper gaps. I was wondering if it was panel bond, but you answered the question.
Primer/Surfacer will help, but mainly only with small pinholes and sand scratches. If you feel waves of imperfections primer is not going to fix it. Only you know what you are expecting/happy with. It looks like you are making good progress though, good luck the rest of the way.
Primer/Surfacer will help, but mainly only with small pinholes and sand scratches. If you feel waves of imperfections primer is not going to fix it. Only you know what you are expecting/happy with. It looks like you are making good progress though, good luck the rest of the way.
07-16-2011, 11:11 AM
#31
Looking good man.
We use "Rage Gold" bondo at the shop. I don't know if all bondo is created or not. It will probably shrink some but how much I don't know.
Are you going to seal it before you spray it? How many coats of base and clear you going to put on?
We use "Rage Gold" bondo at the shop. I don't know if all bondo is created or not. It will probably shrink some but how much I don't know.
Are you going to seal it before you spray it? How many coats of base and clear you going to put on?
07-16-2011, 11:17 AM
#32
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As for the quarter panel, I guess it's time for a complete redo
I think now would be a good time to learn how to mig. Last edited by andrewhlr; 07-16-2011 at 12:10 PM.
07-16-2011, 11:24 AM
#33
Its looking pretty good. I know what doing all the repairs, sanding and primering is like. Stud gun would have been better as it just welds a rod to the panel and use a puller. The rod will wiggle right off. Prep is everything. I hope you block sanded the car by hand really good. I mean with a long block. Not the 3x5 little hand block. Also, it is really important that you spray the bumpers/fenders and other plastic with a flex additive in the paint. That way it won't spider/flake off when you flex them. I hope you also sprayed adhesion promoter on the bare plastic areas before you primered them. If you didn't, you'll probably be okay, but that would be the right way to do it.
07-16-2011, 11:48 AM
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Its looking pretty good. I know what doing all the repairs, sanding and primering is like. Stud gun would have been better as it just welds a rod to the panel and use a puller. The rod will wiggle right off. Prep is everything. I hope you block sanded the car by hand really good. I mean with a long block. Not the 3x5 little hand block. Also, it is really important that you spray the bumpers/fenders and other plastic with a flex additive in the paint. That way it won't spider/flake off when you flex them. I hope you also sprayed adhesion promoter on the bare plastic areas before you primered them. If you didn't, you'll probably be okay, but that would be the right way to do it.
And is this block big enough for ya?
Last edited by andrewhlr; 07-18-2011 at 05:29 PM.
07-16-2011, 12:09 PM
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It sucks that you're having to tear that quarter down and redo it buddy, I feel for ya. The body work is going to show really bad on the front bumper where you molded the license plate in, it shows in the pics. Once you get a nice, glossy black finish then everything is going to multiply by 1000.
07-16-2011, 12:12 PM
#37
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It sucks that you're having to tear that quarter down and redo it buddy, I feel for ya. The body work is going to show really bad on the front bumper where you molded the license plate in, it shows in the pics. Once you get a nice, glossy black finish then everything is going to multiply by 1000.
07-16-2011, 11:34 PM
#39
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Thanks. Everything I know about cars is self-taught, including the bodywork. I had never done anything to a car up until about a year ago. I just go tired of being ripped off, so I said "f* it, how hard can it be." To be honest though, it doesn't hurt that I am a mechanical engineer lol.
But you should paint it next time. It's really not difficult, just time consuming. But make sure you have done your research before hand so you don't truly mess something up lol. Just my $0.02.
But you should paint it next time. It's really not difficult, just time consuming. But make sure you have done your research before hand so you don't truly mess something up lol. Just my $0.02.
the holes you drilled and butchered up with bondo, will do the following
rust
and pop and come right back
why you didnt use a nail gun to pull the dents out is beyond me, or welded the holes shut and then used a self etching primer behind the panle to prevent rust
and yes its going to come back and yes it will rust, and yes its going to look like **** just saying the truth
now the front upper rail you obviosly have misaligned panle gaps, and the upper frame rail is obviously crunched so why didnt you have a shop measure and pull and square up the front end??? why didnt you replace the upper rail??? you leave it crunched??? really????
and what are you using on the polyuarthene bumpers?? fusor?? 3m????
look i can appreciate that your doing the work your self i get it i do but its the wrong way of doing things if ya want it tolook nice and last the life time of the car ask questions us techs are here to help i have seen and fixed cars like yours due to the owner trying to save money and then it costs more money to fix it the right way
the sherwin williams line is awesome, i have used it, i love the primer, the clear is also great and easy to use the base coat goes on like ppgs dbc system
just my opinion its your car you can do what ya want to it
07-17-2011, 12:19 AM
#40
so being a mechanical engineer makes you a body man now?? so here are my professional opinions on what your doing
the holes you drilled and butchered up with bondo, will do the following
rust
and pop and come right back
why you didnt use a nail gun to pull the dents out is beyond me, or welded the holes shut and then used a self etching primer behind the panle to prevent rust
and yes its going to come back and yes it will rust, and yes its going to look like **** just saying the truth
now the front upper rail you obviosly have misaligned panle gaps, and the upper frame rail is obviously crunched so why didnt you have a shop measure and pull and square up the front end??? why didnt you replace the upper rail??? you leave it crunched??? really????
and what are you using on the polyuarthene bumpers?? fusor?? 3m????
look i can appreciate that your doing the work your self i get it i do but its the wrong way of doing things if ya want it tolook nice and last the life time of the car ask questions us techs are here to help i have seen and fixed cars like yours due to the owner trying to save money and then it costs more money to fix it the right way
the sherwin williams line is awesome, i have used it, i love the primer, the clear is also great and easy to use the base coat goes on like ppgs dbc system
just my opinion its your car you can do what ya want to it
the holes you drilled and butchered up with bondo, will do the following
rust
and pop and come right back
why you didnt use a nail gun to pull the dents out is beyond me, or welded the holes shut and then used a self etching primer behind the panle to prevent rust
and yes its going to come back and yes it will rust, and yes its going to look like **** just saying the truth
now the front upper rail you obviosly have misaligned panle gaps, and the upper frame rail is obviously crunched so why didnt you have a shop measure and pull and square up the front end??? why didnt you replace the upper rail??? you leave it crunched??? really????
and what are you using on the polyuarthene bumpers?? fusor?? 3m????
look i can appreciate that your doing the work your self i get it i do but its the wrong way of doing things if ya want it tolook nice and last the life time of the car ask questions us techs are here to help i have seen and fixed cars like yours due to the owner trying to save money and then it costs more money to fix it the right way
the sherwin williams line is awesome, i have used it, i love the primer, the clear is also great and easy to use the base coat goes on like ppgs dbc system
just my opinion its your car you can do what ya want to it
It's the mans first attempt at this. It's like anything else you learn from it and do it better next time. Maybe he didn't know any better. I'd love to see all the **** you have fucked up. Not all of us were born great bdymen like you. You can be good at something and not be arrogant.
It's just my opinion you can do what you want to.