Paint & Body Work Custom Painting | Panel Repairs & Replacement

My Complete Paint Job **LOTSA PICS**

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Old 07-17-2011, 12:20 AM
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Here we go again...























But really, you may know your stuff, but work on your delivery. Nobody likes an *******, even if you know what you're talking about.
Old 07-17-2011, 12:25 AM
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OP. Are you using glazing putty to fill in those small pin holes?
Old 07-17-2011, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bdyman
so being a mechanical engineer makes you a body man now??
No. I was referring to doing all kinds of work on my car. Not just bodywork. And yes, being a mechanical engineer will give me an advantage when it comes to working on something mechanical, like a car.

why you didnt use a nail gun to pull the dents out is beyond me
If you would have read the thread you would know the answer to this. All the holes on the right side of the panel were previously drilled by someone else. So when my local jobber (who painted professionally for 29 years, which I'm assuming is much longer than you) told me that they used to do this all the time and my quarter panel was already filled with holes, I didn't feel the need to go spend $1000 on a decent welder and stud gun.

now the front upper rail you obviosly have misaligned panle gaps, and the upper frame rail is obviously crunched so why didnt you have a shop measure and pull and square up the front end???
I have taken it to a frame shop and they said it was straight. The main reason for the misaligned gap is due to the fact that the passenger fender is not original.

why didnt you replace the upper rail??? you leave it crunched??? really????
I have had this car for over 4 years and never had the slightest indication from driving or appearance that the upper rail was like that. So maybe you can understand why I wouldn't want to start cutting up my frame with tools that I don't have and then trying to weld a good one back in. If it's working fine, ain't no reason to replace it.

and what are you using on the polyuarthene bumpers?? fusor?? 3m???
Again, please read the thread before asking monotonous questions.

I am no expert, but I do have some clue about what I am doing. That being said, I'm always open to other's opinions, and I appreciate you giving me yours, I really do, but there is no reason to be a dick about it.

Last edited by andrewhlr; 07-17-2011 at 07:44 AM.
Old 07-17-2011, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
OP. Are you using glazing putty to fill in those small pin holes?
If you're referring to the quarter panel:
I was originally, but I'm in the process of redoing the quarter for the fourth time now and this time I'm welding up all holes and I got what I think is the best filler out there, Evercoat's Quantum, which shouldn't require fine filler.

If you're referring to the pics with the pieces of tape:
No, I'm sanding them all down until they are gone. Then I'll reprime if need be.
Old 07-17-2011, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by andrewhlr
No. I was referring to doing all kinds of work on my car. Not just bodywork. And yes, being a mechanical engineer will give me an advantage when it comes to working on something mechanical, like a car.


If you would have read the thread you would know the answer to this. All the holes on the right side of the panel were previously drilled by someone else. So when my local jobber (who painted professionally for 29 years, which I'm assuming is much longer than you) told me that they used to do this all the time and my quarter panel was already filled with holes, I didn't feel the need to go spend $1000 on a decent welder and stud gun.


I have taken it to a frame shop and they said it was straight. The main reason for the misaligned gap is due to the fact that the passenger fender is not original.


I have had this car for over 4 years and never had the slightest indication from driving or appearance that the upper rail was like that. So maybe you can understand why I wouldn't want to start cutting up my frame with tools that I don't have and then trying to weld a good one back in. If it's working fine, ain't no reason to replace it.


Again, please read the thread before asking monotonous questions.

I am no expert, but I do have some clue about what I am doing. That being said, I'm always open to other's opinions, and I appreciate you giving me yours, I really do, but there is no reason to be a dick about it.
well i have been a tech for 20yrs, so i know what im talking about i can deliever my opinion in my way, im not a surgar coating kinda guy you either take my advice or ya dont and if ya dont then thats your problem not mine

so even though a shop said the upper frame measurements are fine and its straight your going to leave a damaged part on your car?? so what IF you get into another accident on that same side???..........that upper rail is already damaged and will not protect you or anything else around it like the core support, lower apron, strut tower lower frame rail remember mr engineer a unibody car was crumple zones for a reason once those are already damaged beyond our repair it is garbage

so a tech of 29 yrs lol tells you that its ok to leave holes filled with BONDO is that right??? i would hate to see what kind of work he does yes we used to do that way if we couldnt get to a dent behind a panle we had no choice but to drill holes but the guy that taught me welded the holes he made shut

ya gotta know your products, and know about the trade before ya go doing what your doing, bondo is not the cure all fix all bondo back in the day was horrible to work with it was like trying to sling concrete, and so pourus, the first sight of rain everything came back

bondo today is different, its water and corrosion proof, its made with kevlar, so easy to sand, but its still not the cure for everything that everyone thinks it is use it in the wrong way and it will fail

im not going to go look at what you used, i saw how you fixed the front bumper, me personally i would have approached it differently instead of just filling a hole, which if plastic is preped wrong what you did will crack and the work will die back and you will see a ring or birds nest as we call it

and lastly im sorry but being a mechanical engineer it doesnt make you a body man

if ya want more help i`ll be more then happy to guide you in the correct way but if you think im a dick then thats on you trust me im not that bad of a guy just open and honest and trying to help
Old 07-17-2011, 10:55 AM
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so what IF you get into another accident on that same side???
and lastly im sorry but being a mechanical engineer it doesnt make you a body man
I'll address both of these at the same time.
Being a mechanical engineer means that I have taken MANY classes about materials, their properties, and the way they react with other materials. I never said it would make me a "body man." I said it would give me an advantage (not a huge one, but still an advantage) over someone who hasn't learned that type of stuff. For example, I know from the structural design and metal materials properties classes that the damaged upper rail still has at least 90-95% of it's original strength. You can argue with me on this, but that would be like arguing with Neil Armstrong on what the surface of the moon is like. Furthermore, I was in no way "flaunting" being an engineer. I was just trying to encourage a fellow ls1techer to learn how to work on his own car.

so a tech of 29 yrs lol tells you that its ok to leave holes filled with BONDO is that right???
After speaking with my jobber again, he didn't realize the quality of workmanship that I was going for. He made it sound like there was absolutely no risk of doing it this way. If there was, I wouldn't have done it. Now that I know that there is a possibility of it showing back up in the future, I'm redoing it. I am doing the best possible job that I can. The over 250 hours I've spent on the project so far can testify to that.

yes we used to do that way if we couldnt get to a dent behind a panle we had no choice but to drill holes
You finally have something right. Most of the holes are not accessible from the back of the panel. If you don't believe me on that, go take apart an fbody and look. They are all right along the lip which has no clearance inside.

ya gotta know your products
I would be willing to bet that my jobber (who is the head salesman at SW) knows the products he sells quite well, and he recommended all the products I'm using.

im not going to go look at what you used
Ummm... I apologize for your apathy then. Your just being a selfish *** by wasting other's time by making them read your repetitive posts.

which if plastic is preped wrong what you did will crack and the work will die back
I would tell you how I prepped it, but you probably don't care enough to know.

Since you clearly have nothing constructive to say, I am no longer going to respond to your posts. After all, if you don't care, why should I?

Furthermore, I ask everyone to ignore any and all posts made by "bdyman" on my thread.

To bdyman: Feel free to continue to post on my thread. After all, it is a free country. And to be honest, I, along with everyone else, find you immaturity quite amusing. But this is not the place to act that way. Thank you.
Old 07-17-2011, 11:01 AM
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Huh. It's like I've seen all of this before.

OP, as far as the glazing putty, if there small pin holes in the bondo/primer you can use a polyester glazing putty which is much thinner than bondo to help fill those pin holes in.
Old 07-17-2011, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
Huh. It's like I've seen all of this before.

OP, as far as the glazing putty, if there small pin holes in the bondo/primer you can use a polyester glazing putty which is much thinner than bondo to help fill those pin holes in.
Sorry. When I said fine filler I was referring to a polyester glazing putty, which I used to fill the pinholes in the bondo. I didn't want to use it for the primer cause I just felt sanding the primer down would be the better way to go about it. Thanks!
Old 07-18-2011, 05:54 PM
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Will be cool years for now that you got all these pics/documentation
Old 07-18-2011, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Camarosteve44
Will be cool years for now that you got all these pics/documentation
Yea, I've had lots of old-timers tell me to make sure to take them. I guess they all didn't bother when they were doing their work and now regret it lol.
Old 07-20-2011, 05:43 PM
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I have been doing this type of work for a very very long time. I do mostly restoration work and have seen it all.

The problem with body work is there is 10 different ways to get the same result. Ask 10 different people how to paint your car, you will get 10 different answers. Some like PPG, some DuPont, some Glasurit,etc,etc. The list can go on and on.

Its nothing like mechanical work, you can only put a water pump on one way the last time I checked.

Honestly the only way to "learn" body work is to actually do it. There is no trick to it. Repeatedly doing it makes you good. Hell when I first started doing this I couldnt straighten out a hail ding. In HS, I did the same thing you did with the holes, I filled them up with Bondo, I didnt know any better.

Point Im trying to make is you're learning, you're not a professional, and there is nothing wrong with it.

Are there things you could have done differently, yes of course. Is what you did totally wrong, not really. It works, your car will look better than it did before you started. At the end of the day if you're happy with it and more importantly you learned something, then you did just fine. Hell if anything now you know why it cost so much to have good body and paint work done.

Good luck with the project, and do not let anyone bring you down. If I would have listened to people like bdyman when I started I would have never made it. I just kept pluggin away and eventually, well google me. You'll find I've done fairly well.
Old 07-20-2011, 06:01 PM
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Whats that black stuff you used to shave the front plate cover?
Old 07-20-2011, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Opher
I have been doing this type of work for a very very long time. I do mostly restoration work and have seen it all.

The problem with body work is there is 10 different ways to get the same result. Ask 10 different people how to paint your car, you will get 10 different answers. Some like PPG, some DuPont, some Glasurit,etc,etc. The list can go on and on.

Its nothing like mechanical work, you can only put a water pump on one way the last time I checked.

Honestly the only way to "learn" body work is to actually do it. There is no trick to it. Repeatedly doing it makes you good. Hell when I first started doing this I couldnt straighten out a hail ding. In HS, I did the same thing you did with the holes, I filled them up with Bondo, I didnt know any better.

Point Im trying to make is you're learning, you're not a professional, and there is nothing wrong with it.

Are there things you could have done differently, yes of course. Is what you did totally wrong, not really. It works, your car will look better than it did before you started. At the end of the day if you're happy with it and more importantly you learned something, then you did just fine. Hell if anything now you know why it cost so much to have good body and paint work done.

Good luck with the project, and do not let anyone bring you down. If I would have listened to people like bdyman when I started I would have never made it. I just kept pluggin away and eventually, well google me. You'll find I've done fairly well.
Wow! I completely agree with EVERYTHING you said lol. There are many different ways to skin a cat. As for being a painting professional, I don't know why everyone is thinking that I said that I am one or anything close to it. As you said, I am definitely a novice at this, but I do know enough to make mostly well informed decisions. Will some things slip through the cracks, yes. But this happens to everyone. I just need to learn from my mistakes, or, better yet, get great advice from people like you before (or soon after I make them) As for the quarter panel, I've completely redone it and welded up the holes. I'm just glad that I was told about the potential problems before I started to spray color. And yes, I definitely now know why some paint jobs can cost so much! But thanks for the advice and motivation
Old 07-20-2011, 06:13 PM
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Oh well you must be at Bdyman. I have been read his many posts in paint / body work section, I got many impress of his experience comments in body works/paints and also he has or had been sponsor this forum.

Last edited by Jeff Smith; 07-20-2011 at 06:16 PM. Reason: edited
Old 07-20-2011, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by whytryz28
Whats that black stuff you used to shave the front plate cover?
3m Semi-Rigid Plastic Repair... It's great stuff. Just make sure to never stop using it for more than a couple seconds. It has a self-mixing tip and the stuff will harden in the tip, wasting some of your product and the tip.

Originally Posted by Jeff Smith
Oh well you must be at Bdyman. I have been read his many posts in paint / body work section, I got many impress of his experience comments in body works/paints and also he has or had been sponsor this forum.
Not mad, just not going to put up with his . some people just like to rain on others parade, and i'm not going to put up with it
Old 07-20-2011, 06:46 PM
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fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuun
Old 07-20-2011, 08:43 PM
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I have a question for the pros:
I was talking with my neighbor and he said when painting the car to make sure that all the panels are in the same position as they will be when they are on the car and gave an example of how the hood shouldn't be up when painting it because it will cause it to dry differently or something. Have you guys ever heard of this? I was planning on painting with the doors off so I could do the jambs at the same time and the doors would be horizontal instead of vertical at the time of painting. Do you think this could somehow cause an issue?
Thanks!
Old 07-20-2011, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewhlr
I have a question for the pros:
I was talking with my neighbor and he said when painting the car to make sure that all the panels are in the same position as they will be when they are on the car and gave an example of how the hood shouldn't be up when painting it because it will cause it to dry differently or something. Have you guys ever heard of this? I was planning on painting with the doors off so I could do the jambs at the same time and the doors would be horizontal instead of vertical at the time of painting. Do you think this could somehow cause an issue?
Thanks!

Like completely opened or just popped with it half way latched? ive always just left it half latched otherwise you wont get the edges just gotta make sure you mask up the engine bay good and under hood otherwise you get alot of over spray which is a bitch to clean... ive painted many doors off the car never had a problem with the paint laying different as long as the air pressure and the gun is set up the same as before def paint everything that shows on the outside all at the same time if its a Metallic color to make sure your gun is set the same and the temp is the same.. solid colors not so much you can paint them at different times as long as you use the same process (same number of coats same color sealer if you use one on your job etc).. hope that helped
Old 07-20-2011, 09:49 PM
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It's a must if you are spraying metallic. If you panel paint metallic when you bolt everything up it won't look right.
Old 07-20-2011, 11:38 PM
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What was the was the easiest way to take off that roof???????


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