94 Formula repaint(Finished pics page 5)
10-13-2011, 06:40 PM
#44
Sprayed the rockers w/ DP40 then put another coat of K38 on the front fenders and the rear of the car. I wanted to put another coat on to make sure there was enough on there when I wet sand it w/ 400.
Rocker turned out good.
Going to set sand everything tomorrow and probably spray it Saturday.
Rocker turned out good.
Going to set sand everything tomorrow and probably spray it Saturday.
10-14-2011, 01:55 AM
#45
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Damn sucks they messed the rocker up can't wait to see it finished, haven't been on tech in a few days cause I changed jobs, Im spraying ppg waterbased paint at the shop I went to, pretty good stuff just takes forever to get the base to dry!
10-17-2011, 11:40 PM
#48
Well believe it or not I sprayed some color tonight.
I edged the fenders, front and rear bumpers and doors. I was going to spray the bottom side of the hood but my boss decided to drop the hood on the concrete. Top side down.
I had just finished sanding it w/ wet 400 too. He dropped it and said, "Well that's not the first time I've done that." Like that was suppose to make me feel better. 
**** happens. A little sanding and K38 and it will be ready to paint. It could have been worse, he could have dented the **** out of it.
Scrubbed the doors, fender edges, the aformentioned hood down with Comet and a green scotch brite pad.
Taped the doors up and shot some sealer. I went with the OMNI MBP base and OMNI Plus MC261 high solid clear. I originally was going to use PPG clear but because the owner has ran into some extra cost I went with it. I have shot the MC260 clear but not the 261.
I ended up shooting 4 coats of base with a dry coat. That seemed to get the coverage I was wanting and laid out really nice. For anyone that hasn't sprayed metallic you have to use a little higher pressure and move the gun faster than w/ solids. For the dry coat you hold the gun about 12 inches away and go pretty fast. This helps with the atomization of the metallic and helps prevent any dark spots.
After two coats of base
Four
Two coats of clear. The outside of the car will probably get 3-4.
My favorite one
Overall
Some things I might not have mentioned earlier. Wet sand w/ 400 before base.
When spraying urethane parts you have to use something to wash off the "mold release agent". Bare urethane has a residue on it that if you don't scrub off your paint won't stick. I used Bull Dog Abrasive Cleaner. Before you spray your primer on a urethane part scrub the panel with this and a grey scotch brite pad. When you rinse it off with the hose, the water shouldn't bead up. If it does wash/scrub it again. You are looking for the water to sheet off kinda like a newly waxed car.
I scrubbed the bottom of the hood and edges of the door w/ Comet and a green scotch brite pad. The Comet helps w/ any grease/dirt that may be left on the surface and combined with the green scotch brite pad aids in scuffing up the surface so the sealer/base will adhere well.
Use a tack cloth before your spray sealer/base. Wait the appropriate amount of time between coats, normally 10-20 minutes, and tack between base coats. This really helps with keeping dust off especially if you don't have a dedicated paint booth.
When using wax and grease remover make sure you wipe it off before it drys. If you don't it will actually prevent the paint/primer from sticking.
I am going to start early in the morning and fix the hood so I can hopefully spray it and the hatch tomorrow evening and then the entire car Wednesday.
Thanks for looking.
I edged the fenders, front and rear bumpers and doors. I was going to spray the bottom side of the hood but my boss decided to drop the hood on the concrete. Top side down.
I had just finished sanding it w/ wet 400 too. He dropped it and said, "Well that's not the first time I've done that." Like that was suppose to make me feel better. **** happens. A little sanding and K38 and it will be ready to paint. It could have been worse, he could have dented the **** out of it. Scrubbed the doors, fender edges, the aformentioned hood down with Comet and a green scotch brite pad.
Taped the doors up and shot some sealer. I went with the OMNI MBP base and OMNI Plus MC261 high solid clear. I originally was going to use PPG clear but because the owner has ran into some extra cost I went with it. I have shot the MC260 clear but not the 261.
I ended up shooting 4 coats of base with a dry coat. That seemed to get the coverage I was wanting and laid out really nice. For anyone that hasn't sprayed metallic you have to use a little higher pressure and move the gun faster than w/ solids. For the dry coat you hold the gun about 12 inches away and go pretty fast. This helps with the atomization of the metallic and helps prevent any dark spots.
After two coats of base
Four
Two coats of clear. The outside of the car will probably get 3-4.
My favorite one
Overall
Some things I might not have mentioned earlier. Wet sand w/ 400 before base.
When spraying urethane parts you have to use something to wash off the "mold release agent". Bare urethane has a residue on it that if you don't scrub off your paint won't stick. I used Bull Dog Abrasive Cleaner. Before you spray your primer on a urethane part scrub the panel with this and a grey scotch brite pad. When you rinse it off with the hose, the water shouldn't bead up. If it does wash/scrub it again. You are looking for the water to sheet off kinda like a newly waxed car.
I scrubbed the bottom of the hood and edges of the door w/ Comet and a green scotch brite pad. The Comet helps w/ any grease/dirt that may be left on the surface and combined with the green scotch brite pad aids in scuffing up the surface so the sealer/base will adhere well.
Use a tack cloth before your spray sealer/base. Wait the appropriate amount of time between coats, normally 10-20 minutes, and tack between base coats. This really helps with keeping dust off especially if you don't have a dedicated paint booth.
When using wax and grease remover make sure you wipe it off before it drys. If you don't it will actually prevent the paint/primer from sticking.
I am going to start early in the morning and fix the hood so I can hopefully spray it and the hatch tomorrow evening and then the entire car Wednesday.
Thanks for looking.
Last edited by LilJayV10; 10-17-2011 at 11:47 PM.
10-18-2011, 08:38 PM
#51
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Looking good, cool to see how other people do cars.
I live in TN but the shop I'm working at now is in VA, VA doesn't have to use waserbased paint but was close to going though legislation I believe but was changed so alot more shops are starting to switch cause it's coming in the near future. I believe it has to be used in Cali n a few other places( its alot to do with voc though)
I live in TN but the shop I'm working at now is in VA, VA doesn't have to use waserbased paint but was close to going though legislation I believe but was changed so alot more shops are starting to switch cause it's coming in the near future. I believe it has to be used in Cali n a few other places( its alot to do with voc though)
10-20-2011, 11:33 AM
#55
TECH Regular
Excellent job! Would like to see the final product when completed. I will probably attempt this next spring on a 97 Formula. I have painted a couple cars before but that was 20 years ago. I am a bit lost with all the new types (water based?) paints and primers and I suppose this is easier for the DIY garage painters.
I did do some reading on Summits urethane 2 stage paints. I am leaning that way. Not sure of the qualitity or if anyone has any experience with these products.
I did do some reading on Summits urethane 2 stage paints. I am leaning that way. Not sure of the qualitity or if anyone has any experience with these products.
10-20-2011, 11:38 AM
#56
TECH Regular
Even more impressive it is a metallic. Very difficult for anyone who has done this knows. I tried this once. Tiger striped pretty bad. I will stick to solid colors.
Again awesome job!
Again awesome job!
10-20-2011, 03:24 PM
#57
Thanks everyone for the kind words and the PM's. Because of the weather and the fact I didn't know if I was going to have any help at the shop was the reason I edged the fenders and such the way I did. The sealer I am using you have 72 hours to spray base on it. After that you have to scuff it up and respray it.
The overspray on the parts will be sanded off. When I spray the whole car I will use the 3M foam rope between the jams. There will be a small tape line but that can be handed sanded down and polished out. I am sealing the entire back of the body at once to reduce how big the tape line is. This way there will be just base/clear against the tape line. Now on the front fenders and doors where I still have to spray sealer will be a little more tricky. The reason is with a coat of sealer/base/clear when you try and sand the tape line down you can get into the coat of sealer. The way around this is to dust or lightly spray that edge with primer from the back side of the edge so you don't dump a bunch of sealer on the tape line. Basically I will shoot the sealer at an angle from the fender side and let the sealer flow onto the hood. If I sprayed it from the hood side a bunch of sealer would collect in the jamb and that wouldn't be good. In a perfect world I would have sealed everything, sprayed the edges, jambs with a few coats of base, bolted everything on and based the whole car. Let it dry, take the whole car apart and cleared it. Unfortunately that couldn't happen.
Stuff like this is what adds to the cost of spraying a car which people don't understand. That's why spraying a metallic car is more expensive than a car with a solid color because you don't have all these extra steps. If this would have been a solid color car I would have sprayed everything apart and put it together and been done.
I hope this thread helps people understand why it costs so much to have a car repainted. I can tell you that I didn't charge enough for this job and I am not making much money off of it compared to how much time I have in it.
When I told the owner how much it would be I didn't know I was going to have to sand the quarters all the way down, fix those rust spots, spend two days sanding the hood down and so on. Then I had to spray K38 on those places and block sand it. The problem is when you make one part of the car look that good you have to do it on the entire car or it won't look right.
It wouldn't have been nearly as bad if I had to sand the car down and spray it but it wasn't that simple.
I'm spraying the door jambs and hatch area now. It's looking really nice. I can't wait to get the car back together and spray the whole thing.
The overspray on the parts will be sanded off. When I spray the whole car I will use the 3M foam rope between the jams. There will be a small tape line but that can be handed sanded down and polished out. I am sealing the entire back of the body at once to reduce how big the tape line is. This way there will be just base/clear against the tape line. Now on the front fenders and doors where I still have to spray sealer will be a little more tricky. The reason is with a coat of sealer/base/clear when you try and sand the tape line down you can get into the coat of sealer. The way around this is to dust or lightly spray that edge with primer from the back side of the edge so you don't dump a bunch of sealer on the tape line. Basically I will shoot the sealer at an angle from the fender side and let the sealer flow onto the hood. If I sprayed it from the hood side a bunch of sealer would collect in the jamb and that wouldn't be good. In a perfect world I would have sealed everything, sprayed the edges, jambs with a few coats of base, bolted everything on and based the whole car. Let it dry, take the whole car apart and cleared it. Unfortunately that couldn't happen.
Stuff like this is what adds to the cost of spraying a car which people don't understand. That's why spraying a metallic car is more expensive than a car with a solid color because you don't have all these extra steps. If this would have been a solid color car I would have sprayed everything apart and put it together and been done.
I hope this thread helps people understand why it costs so much to have a car repainted. I can tell you that I didn't charge enough for this job and I am not making much money off of it compared to how much time I have in it.
When I told the owner how much it would be I didn't know I was going to have to sand the quarters all the way down, fix those rust spots, spend two days sanding the hood down and so on. Then I had to spray K38 on those places and block sand it. The problem is when you make one part of the car look that good you have to do it on the entire car or it won't look right.
It wouldn't have been nearly as bad if I had to sand the car down and spray it but it wasn't that simple.
I'm spraying the door jambs and hatch area now. It's looking really nice.
I can't wait to get the car back together and spray the whole thing.
10-20-2011, 09:21 PM
#58
TECH Regular
Please keep the pics coming I will be doing a color change on mine and will probably paint the doors, hood, hatch, gas door separatly. We don't have rust issues in Texas so minimal body work will be required. Someone will have a very nice Formula when you are finished.
10-20-2011, 09:32 PM
#59
I'm pretty sure the owner will be more than happy considering what the car looked like before.
The weather was nicer today. Sprayed the door jambs and the hatch area.
Just base coat
Three coats of clear
Rocker panel? What rocker panel?
The weather was nicer today. Sprayed the door jambs and the hatch area.
Just base coat
Three coats of clear
Rocker panel? What rocker panel?
10-20-2011, 10:58 PM
#60
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