Repainting my 1993 Z28 **PICTURES**
10-17-2012, 06:19 PM
#21
Easiest way to tell if it's raw plastic is scuff it in an area or sand it with some 600. Wipe it with a clean cloth and if it has anything on it, then it's primer. No need to use adhesion promoter. It it is real orange pealy, sand it with 600 (start with 320 if it's real bad) then seal/base/clear.
If it's raw, scuff with a gray scotch brite and 800 grit and promoter/seal/base/clear
If it's raw, scuff with a gray scotch brite and 800 grit and promoter/seal/base/clear
Now, do I have to buy a certain type of sealer for flexible parts or will any sealer work? I'm using TranStar 1K sealer. I know you can't prep flexible panels the way you would hard surfaces because they don't flex. So different steps must be taken along the way. What exactly is the different in the type of materials you can use for flexible surfaces?
Sorry for all the questions man, you just seem to know what you're doing.
10-17-2012, 06:43 PM
#22
Some people are freaks about flex. Personally, I have painted tins of bumpers and haven't had any issues. I really would get worried about it. If you really want it, they sell it in quart cans and you have to add it in. I wouldn't. I have done a few motorcycles too, no issues.
I don't know if adhesion promoter will react with primer, so if I were you I would do a small area on the bumper first to make sure it doesn't react with the primer. If you know for sure it's primer, you DON'T need the adhesion promoter. Just sand/scuff it well. A good paint job is 90% prepping. Laying it out isn't that much of a task.
I don't know if adhesion promoter will react with primer, so if I were you I would do a small area on the bumper first to make sure it doesn't react with the primer. If you know for sure it's primer, you DON'T need the adhesion promoter. Just sand/scuff it well. A good paint job is 90% prepping. Laying it out isn't that much of a task.
10-17-2012, 06:59 PM
#23
Oh I see. So that stuff they use to allow flexing is an additive you put in the base or something?
I'm definitely taking my time to prep everything. I just want to make sure I'm using the right stuff. But for sure the new rear bumper will need promotor on it. Then I can just shoot the sealer/base/clear, right?
I'm definitely taking my time to prep everything. I just want to make sure I'm using the right stuff. But for sure the new rear bumper will need promotor on it. Then I can just shoot the sealer/base/clear, right?
10-17-2012, 07:09 PM
#24
You need to put the flex in every step, sealer/base/clear.
As for the adhesion promoter (AP) you'll have to read the can/jug of stuff and see how to apply it. Each brand differs how it's applied. Usually you prep the bumper, blow it off, some AP you spray on and wipe off, others you spray from your gun and leave it. Then seal, base, clear.
As for the adhesion promoter (AP) you'll have to read the can/jug of stuff and see how to apply it. Each brand differs how it's applied. Usually you prep the bumper, blow it off, some AP you spray on and wipe off, others you spray from your gun and leave it. Then seal, base, clear.
10-17-2012, 08:55 PM
#25
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Car looks real good OP. Luckily, I just got a job at a body shop so hopefully after I get some time in with them and prove myself, mine may be going to a paint booth soon also to get fixed from where I haven't had the time or money to fix it.
10-17-2012, 09:06 PM
#26
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Can't say it's my favorite color, but it sure is rare, and sure looked clean when you were finished. Working in a body shop sure has its perks. What'd it cost you for the materials?
11-12-2012, 03:36 PM
#29
benefits of staying on the bosses good side, also we just did his golf car a pearl white that I didn't charge him a penny on... 
11-15-2012, 09:28 PM
#33
Good reasons? No, but if it wasn't my own car they would of been coming off
How much would you charge somebody to do a re spray on a camaro? Thanks!
11-17-2012, 07:24 AM
#35
If I was responding a car with decent paint (no issues) everything was detrimed, not doing jambs. It would be around $1000 labor and anywhere from 1000-1500 for supplies.
11-18-2012, 09:43 AM
#37
Lots of variables. Depends on paints current condition (flaking, Stone chips, need body work), also if it's completely detrimed (tails out, moldings off, bumpers off, badges off, window moldings etc. Next would be door jambs?
If I was responding a car with decent paint (no issues) everything was detrimed, not doing jambs. It would be around $1000 labor and anywhere from 1000-1500 for supplies.
If I was responding a car with decent paint (no issues) everything was detrimed, not doing jambs. It would be around $1000 labor and anywhere from 1000-1500 for supplies.
