75 Big Bumper

iTrader: (10)

Hi, I'm doing some bodywork and paint prep on my 75 Camaro and had a question about spray can primer. I've almost removed all of the car's previous paint job, down to the bare metal, but I probably won't get around to spraying the paint for a bit. I've been coating the pieces that I sand with black spray can primer for weather protection. The car has to stay outside, unfortunately (my car is pretty much all I have). If I just spray over the can primer with the paint gun will it affect the quality of the finished paint? Or should I take the car down to bare metal again and then re-prime with the gun? Any help is appreciated. I'd like it to look as good as possible, this is my first time painting with anything except spray paint so I want to do it right.

VAformula

iTrader: (8)

Its not the best to use. But I've seen it done for engine bays and other areas on the car. You would have to be really good and keep the primer even so the paint will be even. I''ve never seen anyone do it on the whole car, and I wouldn't do it personally because if you're taking the time/money to paint the whole car you might as well do it right!

maxplusten

iTrader: (4)

in my experience weve used rattle can primer for small spot jobs and things of that nature and 9 times out of 10 we end up paying for it... It usually rings out and wont heal properly once real color hits it. The solvents in modern automotive paint seem to be too strong for most rattle can primers to handel (even the good ones like uPol and ones ment for that purpose). You cant beat spraying it from a gun, better atomization, better paint quality...

75 Big Bumper

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for responding guys. So basically just take it down to metal, wash it over with soap then degreaser, then spray the primer with the gun?

maxplusten

iTrader: (4)

youll probably have to do some body work if your completely stripping it. You can always do it after you prime though. Make sure you use a good self etching primer on bare metal. Do some research, several good brands out there that wont break the bank. We use alot of Mar-Hyde brand primers... good stuff and realitivly cheap

SSInnovations

iTrader: (8)

100% agree except the etching primer part, that stuff is old school.

You MUST get to bare metal and hit it with an epoxy, especially since it's going to be outside. You can do whatever body-work you need right over the epoxy. Epoxy again after bodywork and proceed. Rattle can paint ALWAYS causes problems, been there done that.

maxplusten

iTrader: (4)

what epoxy you using SSI? we use the marhyde epoxy too and have had pretty decent luck with it. Always curious to hear what other people use. We tryed some upol just recently on my hood and it ringed out bad on us.

98camarols1

iTrader: (1)

if your going to strip it down to bare metal.after you get it to bare metal first thing use ospho metal treatment(you can Google it on how to use it,direction,etc.)second use some self etching primer,third get some good high build primer surfacer or epoxy primer.i prefer black it easier to spot high and low spots when you block sand it..if you go with epoxy make sure you let it sit and dry really good..and rattle cans are only good for small spot jobs as mentioned above.good luck!

75 Big Bumper

iTrader: (10)

I'd like to hear what kind of epoxy you like to use as well, SSI. I'll have to wait until you get back on though. What are the differences between epoxy and self-etching primers? 98ls1, can I get ospho at any local stores or do I have to order it online? Also how much do I need to cover my 75 camaro? I didn't know I could re primer after bodywork. I might actually have to get a paint gun sooner than I thought, I wouldn't mind spraying the whole car with a first coat of primer just to get a feel for the paint gun.

75 Big Bumper

iTrader: (10)

Oh and 98, I read the whole thread you had about your car's paint job. I loved the work man, it looks beautiful. I'm looking for mine to be a bright white (haven't decided on which white) with metallic cherry stripes down the middle.

SSInnovations

iTrader: (8)

I have only shot SPI epoxy, it's a little temperamental but their customer service is amazing. The owner Barry answers his cell phone 24/7 and will walk you through things.

Epoxy provides significantly superior adhesion to bare metal, additionally it is water proof so the surface is 100% sealed. I did a lot of research on this stuff and it's the only way to go. One thing to note is that you cannot put epoxy over acid etch products. Most professionals agree that acid etch is outdated technology and should be avoided, body-shops and the like use the stuff because it's cheap and fast.

Check out the SPI users forum, TONS of info. http://www.spiuserforum.com/forum.php

Also, don't take my word for any of this, read as much as you can from everywhere you can. A quality paint job requires a little education and lots of patience.

SSInnovations

iTrader: (8)

Here are a few shots of the grey SPI, it turned out so nice that I decided to leave it as is for the entire under body, also shot the tank. All of this was sand blasted prior to paint.

75 Big Bumper

iTrader: (10)

I try to do my homework as much as possible before I do something, so thanks for the link. I've actually been looking for something like that, the paint and body section doesn't really have much for faqs/guides/info.

That grey looks like exactly what I'd need as a pre coat to my white base so it doesn't take 50 coats (exaggerating) to cover the black up.

SSInnovations

iTrader: (8)

I agree, the paint and body section is lacking.

This stuff covers EVERYTHING, it's opaque.

98camarols1

iTrader: (1)

Self-etching has (phosphoric) acid in it so that it sort of cleans and digs in to the metal by micro-pitting it. Usually greenish in color.However it does not fill or “seal” at all. It must be top coated to protect and you can not sand on it and it is applied very thin.epoxy your prep-work has to be perfect.it does not bite into metal like self-etching.but it does good job in sealing and preventing metal from rust..i use both methods and they work great never had any problem.ospho u can get from your local automotive paint store.someone told me home depot and lowes carry it also,but im not sure.one bottle should be plenty.
also if i were you i would go to your local automotive paint store(Sherwin Williams etc..) and talk to the sale rep.ask him/her all the questions abt the products.then you can decide from there.and yes practice much as you can with gun.
thanks man.i dont how many color i went through til i finally decided.lol
but tht would stand out white with cherry stripes.

75 Big Bumper

iTrader: (10)

Oops, I meant to say in post #9 that I didn't know that you could prime BEFORE bodywork. I think I'm gonna go with the epoxy method. I was reading that you can also use it as a sealer before base coating, which cuts me having to buy a separate container of sealer. Plus I want to get some experience with bodywork since I haven't done much of it yet.

98camarols1

iTrader: (1)

if u going to go with epoxy make sure u let dry real good.(24-48) hours.some sales rep tell u you can do wet-on-wet,but i don't recommend.it can turn into disaster i seen it before.epoxy you got let it dry.and little advice on the bodywork i would do it before you strip it down.mark off all the areas where bodywork needs and lil small dents and dings.try to pull them.that way you wont miss out on any dents.because you may not see it after you prime it and once you paint it all up it will stick out like sore thump.been there done that.lol

75 Big Bumper

iTrader: (10)

That's do-able as well, I just moved the car inside today so now I don't have to worry about weather if I take it down to metal. Last time I sanded down one piece and left it outside the sky thought it would be a good time to rain, leaving my entire metal fender covered with patches of rust. I probably won't be getting to bodywork right now, I just got my ls1/t56 mated so now my next task is getting it into the engine bay. From looking at it right now I think I'm gonna have to cut the trans tunnel crossmember a little bit for the shifter to come up through. Oh and where can I get a good dent puller? I've got a few dents that I think a decent puller could get out. The rest are too tiny and will just have to get some bondo over them.

98camarols1

iTrader: (1)

u can pick one up from harbor freight.they do pretty good job..and wish u luck with everything.it sounds like, it will be pretty nice project..

75 Big Bumper

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the help! I've been so eager to get this car going, and hopefully when it's done it'll turn heads like yours does xD