Car Accident - Advice???
11-11-2013, 07:34 PM
#41
FINALLY, a good insurance company story.... most of them (national ones included) are ******* crooks and will try to get over on you at every possible opportunity...
I've had to threaten litigation and resort to being an ******* a couple of times... whenever they total a vehicle out, they have a bad habit of taking lowest value they can find from either NADA or KBB and then deducting the he'll out of it... when my RSX-S got tboned, I wound up having to spell out to the claims rep that I was entitled to keep the rental (2010 mustang GT ) for up to a month, and that it was going to cost them more to argue with me for three weeks and pay for my rental than it was to Just cut me a check for what the car was worth minus salvage value.
the big upside with a lot of them is their buy back price is pretty close to scrap price in a lot of cases, So you can make out like a bandit... I wound up getting 1900 more than I paid for my RSX-S, and by the time I parted out the longblock, supercharger, Meth kit, tranny, interior, ect, and then crushing it, I actually got more out of it than I have in it.
Just wait them out if you have to, and make sure they know you're not a clueless chump... as bad as it sounds, acting like BillyBob from cell 4B seems to work wonders...
I've had to threaten litigation and resort to being an ******* a couple of times... whenever they total a vehicle out, they have a bad habit of taking lowest value they can find from either NADA or KBB and then deducting the he'll out of it... when my RSX-S got tboned, I wound up having to spell out to the claims rep that I was entitled to keep the rental (2010 mustang GT ) for up to a month, and that it was going to cost them more to argue with me for three weeks and pay for my rental than it was to Just cut me a check for what the car was worth minus salvage value.
the big upside with a lot of them is their buy back price is pretty close to scrap price in a lot of cases, So you can make out like a bandit... I wound up getting 1900 more than I paid for my RSX-S, and by the time I parted out the longblock, supercharger, Meth kit, tranny, interior, ect, and then crushing it, I actually got more out of it than I have in it.
Just wait them out if you have to, and make sure they know you're not a clueless chump... as bad as it sounds, acting like BillyBob from cell 4B seems to work wonders...
11-11-2013, 08:01 PM
#43
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I got weaseled out on the first of my 2 94 accords, I had comprehensive but not collision and came around a corner at 4 am and hit a tree that had fallen in the road and they said since the tree was already in the road it was a collision claim, but if the tree had fallen on the car then it would of been covered.
11-12-2013, 08:59 AM
#44
FWIW too...I didn't have to resort to this, so I don't know if it's true or not...
but when I bought my SS from a dealer last year, he used the "black book" pricing when obtaining my loan. I actually contacted him when I got into the wreck a mere 5 weeks later, and asked him to send me a scan of it, which he did.
He told me that KBB/Edmunds/etc won't always be accurate for older, cleaner, collectible cars, hence the black book. In no way do I think my '00 SS is on par with some ultra-rare cars (c'mon, it's a 13 year old Chevy!), but the blue book price was definitely too low on it. The black book price was more accurate.
May be worth trying to locate this pricing if the car is in great shape, nicely optioned, or a more rare/exclusive package. I'd argue that it's a collector's item as the 4th gen Pontiacs were the "last of breed".
but when I bought my SS from a dealer last year, he used the "black book" pricing when obtaining my loan. I actually contacted him when I got into the wreck a mere 5 weeks later, and asked him to send me a scan of it, which he did.
He told me that KBB/Edmunds/etc won't always be accurate for older, cleaner, collectible cars, hence the black book. In no way do I think my '00 SS is on par with some ultra-rare cars (c'mon, it's a 13 year old Chevy!), but the blue book price was definitely too low on it. The black book price was more accurate.
May be worth trying to locate this pricing if the car is in great shape, nicely optioned, or a more rare/exclusive package. I'd argue that it's a collector's item as the 4th gen Pontiacs were the "last of breed".
11-12-2013, 11:34 AM
#45
Thanks man, you made my day. 
Ugh, still makes me sick
11-12-2013, 02:49 PM
#46
Good chance of that. I hydroplaned in my old 98 and ran the back passenger side into a concrete wall at I'm estimating 40-50mph. Totally screwed up the chassis of the car as that passenger side impact bent the roofline, both rear frame rails, the driver door rubbed on the buckled quarter, etc. But despite all this the suspension mount points were still ok and if it wasn't for the destroyed wheel and tire I literally could have driven it away. I couldn't use the spare because it got bent into a U shape.
Ugh, still makes me sick
Ugh, still makes me sick
Still waiting to hear back from the body shop. I'm expecting an estimate in the $7000 - $8000 range. Anything less and I call shenanigans. Actually kind of hoping it is totalled. Then I get $12k, buy it back, get another nice-looking high mileage T/A and swap my engine in.
Pic from a more happy time...
11-12-2013, 03:23 PM
#47
Actually insurance did not get involved. I didn't have anything but liability at the time (I know carry full coverage on everything). I didn't get cited due to road conditions and numerous accidents that morning, so I just simply dropped the insurance entirely on the car. Parted a few things out and sold the shell for scrap.
The funny part is that rear axle and transmission are now in my current 99 lol.
Hope it all works out for yours. That kind of thing is what bothers me a little bit about trying to have a nicer car - put all the time, sweat, money into it, and then some idiot comes along and destroys it
The funny part is that rear axle and transmission are now in my current 99 lol.
Hope it all works out for yours. That kind of thing is what bothers me a little bit about trying to have a nicer car - put all the time, sweat, money into it, and then some idiot comes along and destroys it
11-12-2013, 04:15 PM
#48
I'll keep you all posted when the dealer body shop gets done looking at it. They are going to hate me because I'm going to be **** to the core about them fixing my car 100% to the shape it was before.
Should I take it to the "prefered body shop" (which is the dealer it's at now), if Geico says they will only provide a warranty if a prefered shop does the work?
We'll say this dealer does "ok" work from what I've read/heard.
If anyone knows any other good body shops in Tucson, AZ, let me know...
Should I take it to the "prefered body shop" (which is the dealer it's at now), if Geico says they will only provide a warranty if a prefered shop does the work?
We'll say this dealer does "ok" work from what I've read/heard.
If anyone knows any other good body shops in Tucson, AZ, let me know...
11-13-2013, 04:41 PM
#49
Dealer called and said they found another $2000 of damage. Which can only mean that the front frame is damaged too, when the impact slammed me into the car in front of me. So now we are talking around $9000 of damage and my claims adjuster still wants to fix it! I don't see how the car is ever going to work right again nor be able to be resold after $9000 of damage... 
At the end of all this I'll post a "Lessons Learned" list. Because I am learning them...
At the end of all this I'll post a "Lessons Learned" list. Because I am learning them...
Last edited by big_g; 11-13-2013 at 06:55 PM.
11-13-2013, 07:06 PM
#50
If it is fixed right then it should work right.
Resale? yeah, could take a hit there, but I guess that depends on whether you ever plan on selling the car. Mine is never going anywhere (barring anything awful happening) so I couldn't care less about "market value." Cars depreciate anyway so meh.
Resale? yeah, could take a hit there, but I guess that depends on whether you ever plan on selling the car. Mine is never going anywhere (barring anything awful happening) so I couldn't care less about "market value." Cars depreciate anyway so meh.
11-13-2013, 11:13 PM
#51
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Dealer called and said they found another $2000 of damage. Which can only mean that the front frame is damaged too, when the impact slammed me into the car in front of me. So now we are talking around $9000 of damage and my claims adjuster still wants to fix it! I don't see how the car is ever going to work right again nor be able to be resold after $9000 of damage...
At the end of all this I'll post a "Lessons Learned" list. Because I am learning them...
At the end of all this I'll post a "Lessons Learned" list. Because I am learning them...
11-14-2013, 10:59 AM
#52
Yeah it is guaranteed if I let the "preferred shop" (the dealer) do the work, which is what my plan is.
I was very fortunate that they appraised my car at such a high value. I mean, that value is actually the fair market value! So far, props to Geico.
I was very fortunate that they appraised my car at such a high value. I mean, that value is actually the fair market value! So far, props to Geico.
11-15-2013, 05:38 PM
#53
UPDATE: Car is totalled. They started taking it apart and the repair cost went over $11,000. I live in Tucson, AZ, and they had to expand their search all the way to Alabama and Iowa to find comps. Value came in at $13,100. I expect the salvage buyback to be around $3500. I owe the bank $4k still. I'm taking prozac now...
I need advice, please!!!!!!
How much is my engine and tranny really worth? Engine has 75k. Shifts like a champ (automatic).
I have $2k in tires and rims too. About how much is an engine swap if I buy another T/A?
11-15-2013, 09:00 PM
#54
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^^^^^^^^ around here full LS1 drop outs (everything needed to swap into a v6) goes for about 4k, I would buy it back for sure regardless, even if you can't find a roller to swap things into you can part it out and make thousands.
11-15-2013, 10:29 PM
#55
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UPDATE: Car is totalled. They started taking it apart and the repair cost went over $11,000. I live in Tucson, AZ, and they had to expand their search all the way to Alabama and Iowa to find comps. Value came in at $13,100. I expect the salvage buyback to be around $3500. I owe the bank $4k still. I'm taking prozac now...
I need advice, please!!!!!!
How much is my engine and tranny really worth? Engine has 75k. Shifts like a champ (automatic).
I have $2k in tires and rims too. About how much is an engine swap if I buy another T/A?
11-16-2013, 03:19 AM
#56
that leaves you with 5600 and the car? idk what id do man..........i might throw some **** wheels and tires on the car and let them take it, take the remaining 9100 and go car shopping.....if you have the time and patience to part it than go for it, not sure id want to be bothered by it though. look for a nice 9-11k car and throw your wheels on it, just my opinion of course.....you could find a nice Lt1 car and swap your stuff over to it i suppose too if you want a project.
I'm so pissed off right now at that douche who hit me...
11-16-2013, 03:52 AM
#57
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really man if they are giving you 10k i would take the cash and buy another one... anything that is for that much will already have all the stuff pluss some... i just saw a turbo ss camaro on here for 15,500... take that money and give it to the bank for a down payment and get a 600 whp car that has the amount asking for in labor. wish i would of spent the money and bought one that was already built than buy a run down one and spend all the money... im probably around 20k-25k in my build and could only get around 8k for it....
11-16-2013, 03:36 PM
#58
I have 3 options:
1) There is a nice-looking 99 T/A in town for $6500 with 140K miles. I'd offer him $5800, maybe $6k. It is white just like my old one. My dad knows a mechanic that will do the engine and tranny swap for "about $500". That is probably ripping him off, so I'd probably pay him $750 or so if he can get it done in a couple weeks (he works from home as a second job). So swap the engine and trans and my WS6 hood and whatnot, then part out the rest of my car, and sell the other 140K mile engine.
2) Buy my car back and simply part it out.
3) While the wife still feels bad for me, let my car go, take the $9k, and get a an $18k vette with 50k miles on it, like this:
1) There is a nice-looking 99 T/A in town for $6500 with 140K miles. I'd offer him $5800, maybe $6k. It is white just like my old one. My dad knows a mechanic that will do the engine and tranny swap for "about $500". That is probably ripping him off, so I'd probably pay him $750 or so if he can get it done in a couple weeks (he works from home as a second job). So swap the engine and trans and my WS6 hood and whatnot, then part out the rest of my car, and sell the other 140K mile engine.
2) Buy my car back and simply part it out.
3) While the wife still feels bad for me, let my car go, take the $9k, and get a an $18k vette with 50k miles on it, like this:
11-16-2013, 06:49 PM
#59
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I have 3 options:
1) There is a nice-looking 99 T/A in town for $6500 with 140K miles. I'd offer him $5800, maybe $6k. It is white just like my old one. My dad knows a mechanic that will do the engine and tranny swap for "about $500". That is probably ripping him off, so I'd probably pay him $750 or so if he can get it done in a couple weeks (he works from home as a second job). So swap the engine and trans and my WS6 hood and whatnot, then part out the rest of my car, and sell the other 140K mile engine.
2) Buy my car back and simply part it out.
3) While the wife still feels bad for me, let my car go, take the $9k, and get a an $18k vette with 50k miles on it, like this:
1) There is a nice-looking 99 T/A in town for $6500 with 140K miles. I'd offer him $5800, maybe $6k. It is white just like my old one. My dad knows a mechanic that will do the engine and tranny swap for "about $500". That is probably ripping him off, so I'd probably pay him $750 or so if he can get it done in a couple weeks (he works from home as a second job). So swap the engine and trans and my WS6 hood and whatnot, then part out the rest of my car, and sell the other 140K mile engine.
2) Buy my car back and simply part it out.
3) While the wife still feels bad for me, let my car go, take the $9k, and get a an $18k vette with 50k miles on it, like this:
11-16-2013, 09:56 PM
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take advantage of the wives pitty and get into that vette, your first project can be ditching all that woodgrain! to hell with high mileage cars unless you really really enjoy the wrenching.....its a sports car, if my z had 140k on it that would mean it was floored about 70,000 times. lol. maybe 1400 brake stands, etc etc.
my lt1 car with 45k miles on it, near mint, was 6250, if your dead set on the swap, grab a mint lt1 car and swap your stuff over, then you got a low mile chassis as well. you could drive the lt1 car, while you build the ls stuff
my lt1 car with 45k miles on it, near mint, was 6250, if your dead set on the swap, grab a mint lt1 car and swap your stuff over, then you got a low mile chassis as well. you could drive the lt1 car, while you build the ls stuff