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Floor Board Rust Repair Question

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Old 04-16-2018, 02:51 PM
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Staging Lane
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Default Floor Board Rust Repair Question

Hello everyone! I'm having a bit of a rust issue. My car is a 1994 Z28 with t-tops and power windows. I pulled up my carpet last night (which was slightly damp) and found some rust. There's some surface rust spread out on the floor pan, but the driver's side rear seat footwell is pretty bad.

Floor Board Rust Repair Question-photo864.jpg

How would I go about repairing this? There's a small hole above the plug in the picture, and the floor around the plug gives quite a bit. I don't have access to a welder, but I could do fiberglass or por 15 filler.

This is an NC car, and there is no rust on the underside. This is all from interior water exposure. I plan to use a wire wheel with my cordless drill to get rid of the rust patches and then lay down por 15 on the entire floor. I'm also going to try adjusting my window stoppers as I believe that the water is coming in where the window meets the t-top. I'll probably order a new carpet since the previous owner just glued a new one on top of the old one.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-17-2018, 08:17 AM
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to me, it sounds like you are doing the right think - POR-15 for the win

figure out the water leak
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by bleepster
to me, it sounds like you are doing the right think - POR-15 for the win

figure out the water leak
Thanks for this!

I'm also considering coating the rest of the floor in something that will help prevent rust in the future. What would be recommended? While I'll definitely use POR-15 for that particular spot on the floor, I've read that POR-15 isn't the best for parts of the floor pan that don't have rust.

I'm looking for relatively inexpensive, can be applied with a brush or roller, and doesn't require meticulous prep. I've read Rust-oleum is pretty good for this. I'm digging through whatever threads I can find to try and figure this out.

Thanks!
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Old 04-17-2018, 10:03 AM
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i'd cover it all in POR-15 - numerous people have done it as part of their restoration projects.
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Old 04-17-2018, 01:58 PM
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^^^ cover it all with POR15. Surface rust is part of the POR15 curing process. POR15 on the non-rusted areas will just act like a paint and probably better than any other paint you might be tempted to use.
This is what I posted in a thread last year.
Been using POR15 for many years. Up here in the northeast Ohio rustbelt,it's difficult to keep things rust free. Get it on your skin/clothes,it's permanent,use lacquer thinner for skin immediately. Once cured/set on iron/steel,it's very tough and resistant. I mainly use it on rear ends. Doesn't work well on bare clean metal,needs to be treated with their 'etching' compound or wet the bare metal with water to create a natural orange patina. Interacting with a molecular rust surface is part of the curing process. A freshly opened can is very 'watery' and not thick like paint. Has excellent penetration.
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Old 04-17-2018, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by FirstYrLS1Z
^^^ cover it all with POR15. Surface rust is part of the POR15 curing process. POR15 on the non-rusted areas will just act like a paint and probably better than any other paint you might be tempted to use.
This is what I posted in a thread last year.
Been using POR15 for many years. Up here in the northeast Ohio rustbelt,it's difficult to keep things rust free. Get it on your skin/clothes,it's permanent,use lacquer thinner for skin immediately. Once cured/set on iron/steel,it's very tough and resistant. I mainly use it on rear ends. Doesn't work well on bare clean metal,needs to be treated with their 'etching' compound or wet the bare metal with water to create a natural orange patina. Interacting with a molecular rust surface is part of the curing process. A freshly opened can is very 'watery' and not thick like paint. Has excellent penetration.
Thank you! I appreciate your reply! So will it adhere well to the floor pan even though it has paint on it? Will I just need to scuff it and be good to go?
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Old 04-17-2018, 03:44 PM
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It adheres well ( sometimes unfortunately too well to somewhere you didn't want it ) to everything except oily/greasy surfaces. No need to scuff at all. Could take a full day to cure/dry.
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