thank you! now for the hard work... still gotta get that damn trim tape off the passenger side lol I got some goo gone this time to see if that works better. WD40 worked pretty good on the other side but I heard goo gone works pretty well too.

 

Looks incredible! Your effort really shows how important prep work and patience are. It really paid off.

 

Forgot to post up fully detailed in the sun

foroot to post up detailed pics back before the temps dropped lol took these after I finally got new wheels.

 

Great job for sure! Can you tell us everything you used for the job? Special rattle can paint? What do you mean by color matching? Also will rattle can last as long as paying someone to spray it? My engine bay isn’t scratched or in bad shape but since the engine is out figured why not get it repainted. But haven’t rattle can anything that big before so don’t know how hard it would look or how good. Plus would it last.. Guy I know said $150.00 to remove old paint, wash it, prep and paint/clear. But saving some cash and being able to make it look good would be nice too!

 

I cant say how long it will last compared to full
fledged automotive spay gun paint, but i did use rustoleum automotive paint, where the clear has uv protection in it. so it should last for some time, and my car doesn't sit out in the sunlight like it use to so no more el paso summer sun for me lol
I sanded the color down as much as I could without grinding the bumper down to the black "plastic too much except where the layers had flexed or cracked from previous incident. I cut if down with 180/240 automotive sandpaper on the whole bumper to rough it up enough for filler primer to be used. took me a few coats of this between sanding with 300-400 grit to get the base primer coat to be as perfect as I could. then I cleaned and tact the surface and then layer the red down with several layers. I color sanded and coated a couple times so I could get rid of orange peal the best I could. then I made sure to do a near perfect last color coat and let it dry for the time on the can, and then immediately go into clear, and try to not get runs, but you can fix these if you do, but you gotta be gentle if you want to try wetsanding them before doing your last clear coat, however you want to try and keep the layers roughly in the spay window. This is the pit fall of rattle can is that its harder to do large pieces because you surface is can start drying at different times in sections if you are not consistant. Maintain the same speed and distance as if you were using a spray gun.

 

Okay great thanks for all the detailed information and I will look into.

 

Wow this is some epic rattle can, I can’t believe how good it looks and how close it matches. I’ve owned cars with factory paint that the bumpers didn’t match that good. Crazy.

Side note - you need to spray your tail lights with UV protectant clear coat or they will haze up even worse than they were when you started. What little bit of factory UV coating was left, you sanded and buffed off.