~Getting tons of CF work, price/door panel advice~
08-22-2006, 12:14 PM
#1
~Getting tons of CF work, price/door panel advice~ I talked to the guy who did these door panels, he's local to me and was more than willing to do some work for me https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....7&postcount=22
I wanted some silver and black CF work done, and these are the prices I got quoted. The black CF looks just like normal CF, and the silver is the same as in the pics above.
Silver CF
-Door Panels (top right section of drivers door, top left side of passenger door, the 1foot long or so section that goes up and touches the dash) $80 for both
-AC trim-$80 for both
-Radio Bezel-$50
-Guage trim/bezel-$100
-Fuse box (the plastic square above your legs in the driver seat and below the steering wheel) $120
-Glove box door -$100
-Top of the center console (with the cupholder and shifter) $200
He said he'd cut me a deal and do them all for $620. He's done many show cars and fiberglass enclosures, will wrap, sand and clearcoat everything.
Here are the black CF prices
-Center console lid-$50
-A-pillars-$80 for both (will eventually get the 3 pillar pod done in CF with cobalt guages)
-Sunvisors-$120 each (thats $20 more than the price of getting them reupholstered because mine are shot and that price includes custom bondo and fiberglass work to make a hard base for the CF)
-Entire front dash section-$500 (like this custom painted piece, only mine will me all CF https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....3&postcount=26)
To give you an idea about where I'm going with the interior...I'm about to finish all the major interior body panels in high gloss black automotive paint w/ clear coat (thanks for all the tips and links parbreak! pieces are-hatch speaker panels, back seat speaker panels, door/floor trim, bottom of center console) and get the CF pieces done I mentioned above. After that, plans include a full Roll Cage Kit from Wolfe Racecraft that I'll have powdercoated black (I'm already going to have the dash out and it's cheaper than the 6pt, more functional as well!), molded black carpet, Arizen/Sparco/Momo/Corbeaus front seats with back seats reupholstered to match the front, reupholster leather and carpet on doorpanels in black leather and paint non silver CF in the same high gloss automotive black as the rest of the car.
I've decided to lean towards more show and comfort for now with the car, so I'll try some exterior work (VFN 3in hood, CF grille, black C6 ZO6, molded CME) and engine bay CF'ing (either through this guy or Chrome and Performance) after the interior. Besides, low 12s are fast enough, right? I never had intenioned taking it to shows, but I imagine after I get all this done I'll want to show it off.
Sorry for the novel, I just wanted to give you an idea of what the rest of the car will be like so you don't just picture random CF pieces all over the place. I'm still somewhat unsure of how I want to do the door panels, so I am open to advice on a cf/paint combination. If someone has any direct, head on pics of a stock Z28 door panel, post it up. I could try to find someone to photoshop up the ideas you leave. Also, let me know how these prices look to you.
THIS THREAD IS FOR PRICE ADVICE OR DOOR PANEL ADVICE ONLY, IF YOU HAVE A FLAME TO POST IT IS UNWANTED, THIS CUSTOM WORK TAKES A LOT OF TIME AND EFFORT AND NOBODY ASKED FOR YOUR UNKIND COMMENTS
I wanted some silver and black CF work done, and these are the prices I got quoted. The black CF looks just like normal CF, and the silver is the same as in the pics above.
Silver CF
-Door Panels (top right section of drivers door, top left side of passenger door, the 1foot long or so section that goes up and touches the dash) $80 for both
-AC trim-$80 for both
-Radio Bezel-$50
-Guage trim/bezel-$100
-Fuse box (the plastic square above your legs in the driver seat and below the steering wheel) $120
-Glove box door -$100
-Top of the center console (with the cupholder and shifter) $200
He said he'd cut me a deal and do them all for $620. He's done many show cars and fiberglass enclosures, will wrap, sand and clearcoat everything.
Here are the black CF prices
-Center console lid-$50
-A-pillars-$80 for both (will eventually get the 3 pillar pod done in CF with cobalt guages)
-Sunvisors-$120 each (thats $20 more than the price of getting them reupholstered because mine are shot and that price includes custom bondo and fiberglass work to make a hard base for the CF)
-Entire front dash section-$500 (like this custom painted piece, only mine will me all CF https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....3&postcount=26)
To give you an idea about where I'm going with the interior...I'm about to finish all the major interior body panels in high gloss black automotive paint w/ clear coat (thanks for all the tips and links parbreak! pieces are-hatch speaker panels, back seat speaker panels, door/floor trim, bottom of center console) and get the CF pieces done I mentioned above. After that, plans include a full Roll Cage Kit from Wolfe Racecraft that I'll have powdercoated black (I'm already going to have the dash out and it's cheaper than the 6pt, more functional as well!), molded black carpet, Arizen/Sparco/Momo/Corbeaus front seats with back seats reupholstered to match the front, reupholster leather and carpet on doorpanels in black leather and paint non silver CF in the same high gloss automotive black as the rest of the car.
I've decided to lean towards more show and comfort for now with the car, so I'll try some exterior work (VFN 3in hood, CF grille, black C6 ZO6, molded CME) and engine bay CF'ing (either through this guy or Chrome and Performance) after the interior. Besides, low 12s are fast enough, right? I never had intenioned taking it to shows, but I imagine after I get all this done I'll want to show it off.
Sorry for the novel, I just wanted to give you an idea of what the rest of the car will be like so you don't just picture random CF pieces all over the place. I'm still somewhat unsure of how I want to do the door panels, so I am open to advice on a cf/paint combination. If someone has any direct, head on pics of a stock Z28 door panel, post it up. I could try to find someone to photoshop up the ideas you leave. Also, let me know how these prices look to you.
THIS THREAD IS FOR PRICE ADVICE OR DOOR PANEL ADVICE ONLY, IF YOU HAVE A FLAME TO POST IT IS UNWANTED, THIS CUSTOM WORK TAKES A LOT OF TIME AND EFFORT AND NOBODY ASKED FOR YOUR UNKIND COMMENTS 
08-22-2006, 12:37 PM
#2
Staging Lane
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The parts look great!!!
You do need to be aware that the silver material is not carbon fiber. It is aluminized fiberglass, the cost is a little less expensive but it is as difficult if not harder than carbon fiber to work with.
I am not too familiar with the F-body dashes but you may need a dash mat/cover when you drive the car due to the glare from the top of the dash on to the windshield. I have seen 1 Vette with the top of the dash in CF and with any sun at all he needed to have it covered because of the glare.
Look forward to seeing more pics!!!
You do need to be aware that the silver material is not carbon fiber. It is aluminized fiberglass, the cost is a little less expensive but it is as difficult if not harder than carbon fiber to work with.
I am not too familiar with the F-body dashes but you may need a dash mat/cover when you drive the car due to the glare from the top of the dash on to the windshield. I have seen 1 Vette with the top of the dash in CF and with any sun at all he needed to have it covered because of the glare.
Look forward to seeing more pics!!!
08-22-2006, 01:25 PM
#5
TECH Addict
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Prices seems reasonable. I actually did a good portion of those pieces about a year ago, ended up selling them, but a couple things to ask and look out for:
1) Is he using real carbon fiber cloth? ie. 3K 2X2 twill 5.7 oz. or is it the up and coming black fiberglass which looks a good deal like carbon?
2) Be sure the stock pieces are prepped correctly, ie. sanded to get the gloss off but still fairly rough to allow the resin something to bite into. Another trick is to drill small holes on the piece being covered so the resin will seep through to the back of the piece and become a resin "rivet" . Otherwise there is a good chance the fabric, resin and all, will pull off.
3) What kind of resin is being used? Epoxy or polyester. Hopefull epoxy so it will bond better. Poly doesn't like plastic too well.
4) Will the entire surface of, for example, the AC vents be covered or just the forward surfaces. That is will he be tucking the fabric into the recesses for the AC louvers and the headlight ****, etc. It's very hard to get those to contour. I did, but took and lot of work and patience.
These are just some thing as food for thought. And contrary to some opinions, hand layups, which these are, can be just as good as a mold layup if the proper post layup finishing steps are taken. That is, wet sanding to a flat finish and either buff out the resin or clearcoat. I compare it to clearcoating a car. Is that done in a mold?? No, it's sprayed on and later finished. Mold layups just require much less post finishing and usually yield a stronger product, but that's not a concern in aesthetic overlays.
Bryan
parbreak
1) Is he using real carbon fiber cloth? ie. 3K 2X2 twill 5.7 oz. or is it the up and coming black fiberglass which looks a good deal like carbon?
2) Be sure the stock pieces are prepped correctly, ie. sanded to get the gloss off but still fairly rough to allow the resin something to bite into. Another trick is to drill small holes on the piece being covered so the resin will seep through to the back of the piece and become a resin "rivet" . Otherwise there is a good chance the fabric, resin and all, will pull off.
3) What kind of resin is being used? Epoxy or polyester. Hopefull epoxy so it will bond better. Poly doesn't like plastic too well.
4) Will the entire surface of, for example, the AC vents be covered or just the forward surfaces. That is will he be tucking the fabric into the recesses for the AC louvers and the headlight ****, etc. It's very hard to get those to contour. I did, but took and lot of work and patience.
These are just some thing as food for thought. And contrary to some opinions, hand layups, which these are, can be just as good as a mold layup if the proper post layup finishing steps are taken. That is, wet sanding to a flat finish and either buff out the resin or clearcoat. I compare it to clearcoating a car. Is that done in a mold?? No, it's sprayed on and later finished. Mold layups just require much less post finishing and usually yield a stronger product, but that's not a concern in aesthetic overlays.
Bryan
parbreak
Last edited by parbreak; 08-22-2006 at 01:38 PM.
08-23-2006, 02:00 PM
#7
TTT for the doorpanels!
Even if you don't have any ideas, if you have a stock photo of one, preferably straight on with no obstructions, I could post it in the photoshop request thread and see what some different color combos look like. My digi cam is on the outs right now until I get a new one. Thanks
Even if you don't have any ideas, if you have a stock photo of one, preferably straight on with no obstructions, I could post it in the photoshop request thread and see what some different color combos look like. My digi cam is on the outs right now until I get a new one. Thanks
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08-23-2006, 10:43 PM
#10
Third Chrome Wheel Director
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Goodness that looks fine!.........ask him if he's willing to do my center console in Carbon fiber, I got a mismatch from RK the Green/Gold batch and I desperatly need a match to the rest of my kit!.....
I like the Silver weave, it's "blingy", but I like it for a light colored interior, if you have Ebony I'd do the Black traditional 2x2 weave Carbon Fiber.....
I like the Silver weave, it's "blingy", but I like it for a light colored interior, if you have Ebony I'd do the Black traditional 2x2 weave Carbon Fiber.....
08-24-2006, 07:47 PM
#12
Alright, I just got off the phone with the guy doing the work and he had some more info to give me on the work he was going to do...
He preps all the pieces by sanding/drilling the pieces to be covered and adding a layer of 3m adhesive. He bakes/cures the adhesive. He uses polyester cloth and resin because, according to him and other guys at his shop, it has less of a tendency to turn yellow. He uses something called Alva before the clearcoat. I am unsure if this was the actual polyester resin or if it is a topcoat to it. He said it is from Italy and a lot of guys with car show quality interiors add it before the clearcoat to add a deep, glossy look to it. The Alva has to dry for 3 days before laying the polyester clearcoat down on top of it. The silver is aluminized fiberglass but he adds a metallic paint to the resin to help give it a little bit of a glimmer. The black is not real CF unless I supply my own (no fat chance, have you seen the prices??) and is black aluminized fiberglass. He showed me pics and I could not tell the difference in the two. Either way, just thought I would post up that info for anyone who cares
Anybody into car interiors may have seen some of his work. He has a car in DialD magazine, I believe the car is a blue Subaru WRX owned by Eric Strickland.
Another TTT for the door panels!
He preps all the pieces by sanding/drilling the pieces to be covered and adding a layer of 3m adhesive. He bakes/cures the adhesive. He uses polyester cloth and resin because, according to him and other guys at his shop, it has less of a tendency to turn yellow. He uses something called Alva before the clearcoat. I am unsure if this was the actual polyester resin or if it is a topcoat to it. He said it is from Italy and a lot of guys with car show quality interiors add it before the clearcoat to add a deep, glossy look to it. The Alva has to dry for 3 days before laying the polyester clearcoat down on top of it. The silver is aluminized fiberglass but he adds a metallic paint to the resin to help give it a little bit of a glimmer. The black is not real CF unless I supply my own (no fat chance, have you seen the prices??) and is black aluminized fiberglass. He showed me pics and I could not tell the difference in the two. Either way, just thought I would post up that info for anyone who cares
Anybody into car interiors may have seen some of his work. He has a car in DialD magazine, I believe the car is a blue Subaru WRX owned by Eric Strickland.
Another TTT for the door panels!
08-24-2006, 08:16 PM
#13
Third Chrome Wheel Director
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SVT, would he do my console for me if I had the peice, which I do, and the Carbon fiber for him?......I have 3 yards just waiting for it, 2 x 2 twill, "The Look"....
of course I'll pay him as well for the job, and yes, I'm serious......thanks.
of course I'll pay him as well for the job, and yes, I'm serious......thanks.
11-13-2006, 01:23 PM
#18
I'll have to get back to you on that. He has my parts right now but is out on a job on an off shore oil rig. If it is just the litle circular part about the size of your hand I imagine it would be abuot 50 bucks a pop. I don't see why he couldn't do orange, if worse comes to worse you could always buy the fabric off ebay for him to use.
