Touched up my bumper and I have a question
03-14-2007, 09:42 PM
#1
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Touched up my bumper and I have a question I had tapped a parking curb not too long after I bought the car (I'm so embarassed 
) and decided I would repaint the front section of the bumper using some rattle cans to atleast make it look better until I can get it professionally done. So I went through with it tonight. Taped off a section leaving some blending area around the spot I planned to sand & paint.
I sanded the real bad spots (where the paint had come right off) with 160 to tear it off, 220 to smooth it out, and quickly with 1000 to smooth it a bit more. I shot 2 coats of primer, quickly sanded with 1000, then another coat of primer. I shot about 3 or 4 coats of NBM to coat it real nice. Finally, I shot a couple coats of clear on so I'd have some layers to polish and blend with the old paint. Keep in mind I did give plenty of time between coats for drying... I spent about 3 hours doing all this painting.
Right now it obviously looks like ****. It's basically a block of unsmooth paint in the center of relatively smooth paint... how do I go about making it glossy like this rest?
I am thinking I will give it until Friday to cure and harden and then I will wet sand with 1500, then 2000, and then polish with some Zaino when I go to polish the rest of the car. Does this sound about right? And how much wet sanding do I do? Since it was a rattle can job, I'm afraid of pulling too much clear off and then have it look like **** again.
Does it make any difference if the clear I used was clear enamel? I used Rust-Oleum primer, Dupli-Color NBM, and Rust-Oleum clear enamel.
Thanks.
) and decided I would repaint the front section of the bumper using some rattle cans to atleast make it look better until I can get it professionally done. So I went through with it tonight. Taped off a section leaving some blending area around the spot I planned to sand & paint.I sanded the real bad spots (where the paint had come right off) with 160 to tear it off, 220 to smooth it out, and quickly with 1000 to smooth it a bit more. I shot 2 coats of primer, quickly sanded with 1000, then another coat of primer. I shot about 3 or 4 coats of NBM to coat it real nice. Finally, I shot a couple coats of clear on so I'd have some layers to polish and blend with the old paint. Keep in mind I did give plenty of time between coats for drying... I spent about 3 hours doing all this painting.
Right now it obviously looks like ****. It's basically a block of unsmooth paint in the center of relatively smooth paint... how do I go about making it glossy like this rest?
I am thinking I will give it until Friday to cure and harden and then I will wet sand with 1500, then 2000, and then polish with some Zaino when I go to polish the rest of the car. Does this sound about right? And how much wet sanding do I do? Since it was a rattle can job, I'm afraid of pulling too much clear off and then have it look like **** again.
Does it make any difference if the clear I used was clear enamel? I used Rust-Oleum primer, Dupli-Color NBM, and Rust-Oleum clear enamel.
Thanks.
01-28-2008, 12:00 PM
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Always let a professional do your paint work!!! and never ever ever use a rattle can!!! There is no possible way to blend and make it look decent!! Its difficult enough with the right materials and tools for someone who knows what they are doing. A guy that really knows his stuff could fix your car in half the time you took and youd never be able to tell it had been touched! Plus your front bumper is the first thing people see.
01-28-2008, 04:50 PM
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I just attempted this yesterday. 2 half dollar sized areas where I knocked the top layer of paint off the plastic bumper. I don't have any experience with body work but mine looks a hellava lot better than it did.
First I sanded the area with 400 to smooth it out, about 1 - 1 1/2 inches past where the chip was. Spread some Bondo spot putty from a tube to seal and fill where the paint had chipped. After 30 mins, sanded that smooth again with 400. Hit it with some green Dupli-color primer, 3 light coats, 10 mins between coats. Sanded that down with 800.
Applied Dupi-Color paint (rattle can) to match the code on my door. I'm going to let it set for 48 hours and polish it out with rubbing compound. Like I said before, it looks much better than it did, and should look almost new after it is polished out and waxed.
I think the key is take your time prepping the area and sand smooth between coats. Good luck with this.
First I sanded the area with 400 to smooth it out, about 1 - 1 1/2 inches past where the chip was. Spread some Bondo spot putty from a tube to seal and fill where the paint had chipped. After 30 mins, sanded that smooth again with 400. Hit it with some green Dupli-color primer, 3 light coats, 10 mins between coats. Sanded that down with 800.
Applied Dupi-Color paint (rattle can) to match the code on my door. I'm going to let it set for 48 hours and polish it out with rubbing compound. Like I said before, it looks much better than it did, and should look almost new after it is polished out and waxed.
I think the key is take your time prepping the area and sand smooth between coats. Good luck with this.
01-28-2008, 06:56 PM
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i am not real familiar with enamels or aerosol products. but for the most part any hardened clear coat should sand and buff back to a shine, they just may not be the friendliest of products to work with. but the most important part is to let the paint fully cure before wet sanding or buffing on your blends.
