Anybody ever remove the whole hardtop?
12-28-2007, 07:02 AM
#1
LS1Tech Sponsor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anybody ever remove the whole hardtop? I want to take the hardtop off and remove a bunch of dead weight (factory rollover protection). I've looked up some t-top conversions but it looks like they cut it- and just remove the front half.
I'm wondering if it can be removed and re-used...
I'm wondering if it can be removed and re-used...
__________________
1966 Chevy II twin turbo LS3 project
2016 Z07 Carbon
1966 Chevy II twin turbo LS3 project
2016 Z07 Carbon
12-28-2007, 10:05 AM
#2
I've never taken one off complete, but I know how it's attatched. I wouldn't have much faith in its ability come come off intact. Once you remove all the trim it's just panel bond adhesive that atttaches it to the unibdy. You might be able to saw through the PB with some piano wire (just wrap it around two screwdrivers) or a hot wire for removing windshields.
Once you remove the headliner you'll see where it's attached. At the front, down each side, down the middle, and all over the rear portion just before the hatch glass.
Once you remove the headliner you'll see where it's attached. At the front, down each side, down the middle, and all over the rear portion just before the hatch glass.
12-28-2007, 11:54 PM
#3
LS1Tech Sponsor
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Mobile, AL
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've never taken one off complete, but I know how it's attatched. I wouldn't have much faith in its ability come come off intact. Once you remove all the trim it's just panel bond adhesive that atttaches it to the unibdy. You might be able to saw through the PB with some piano wire (just wrap it around two screwdrivers) or a hot wire for removing windshields.
Once you remove the headliner you'll see where it's attached. At the front, down each side, down the middle, and all over the rear portion just before the hatch glass.
Once you remove the headliner you'll see where it's attached. At the front, down each side, down the middle, and all over the rear portion just before the hatch glass.
Funny you should reply. I thought about calling you on this one. Do you still have the 3913 cell number?
I know how it's attached, I'm not a dumbass. I saw a glass guy the other day with a cordless dewalt tool that looked like it might have been a sawzall. It had about a 10" duckbill blade on it and he cut a windshield out in about 30 seconds. I can't find it on Google, but I bet if I had one of those I could cut the top off... I sure would like to get the top off in one piece.
__________________
1966 Chevy II twin turbo LS3 project
2016 Z07 Carbon
1966 Chevy II twin turbo LS3 project
2016 Z07 Carbon
12-29-2007, 10:34 AM
#5
We cut off the top of my Formula during the process of putting in a full cage. By being very careful we were able to save the plastic top to put back on when the job was finished. After we got the plastic top off, we cut the metal framework off at the windshield pillars and around the top of the quarters. The responses you've already received indicate some methods of tackling the project. The operative word is "careful."
FYI, we were able to peel a little over 30 pounds out of the framework that is in place to accommodate the T-tops and around the perimeter. The primary benefits were: getting rid of the 30+ pounds, being able do a more secure job of welding the cage bars, and gaining some headroom for my helmet (I finally have a race car in which the cage fully encloses my entire body).
Additional comments: At the time we worked on this project, the plastic top cover was available in a body shop catalog. I recall that it was about $600 but we didn't have to buy one so I dodged that bullet. We got some incredibly good glue from a body shop to fasten it back into place when the cutting and welding was done. Be sure that you have the top in the right position when you set it back on the framework. You only have a few seconds to work with it once it begins to set. I've had the car up to 138 on the trap clocks with no problems experienced with the top.
This is not a job for the faint-of-heart or the novice. Take your time and get some professional help if you're not sure what to do next.
Good luck
FYI, we were able to peel a little over 30 pounds out of the framework that is in place to accommodate the T-tops and around the perimeter. The primary benefits were: getting rid of the 30+ pounds, being able do a more secure job of welding the cage bars, and gaining some headroom for my helmet (I finally have a race car in which the cage fully encloses my entire body).
Additional comments: At the time we worked on this project, the plastic top cover was available in a body shop catalog. I recall that it was about $600 but we didn't have to buy one so I dodged that bullet. We got some incredibly good glue from a body shop to fasten it back into place when the cutting and welding was done. Be sure that you have the top in the right position when you set it back on the framework. You only have a few seconds to work with it once it begins to set. I've had the car up to 138 on the trap clocks with no problems experienced with the top.
This is not a job for the faint-of-heart or the novice. Take your time and get some professional help if you're not sure what to do next.
Good luck
12-29-2007, 12:27 PM
#6
My glass guy has that same tool, it's a modified cordless sawzall, and they cost like $600.
You could probably persuade a local independent glass installer to let you use his. Trade him some beer or "applejuice" that seems to be the currency of your world
Heat the blade with a torch before cutting, it'll slice right through.
# is the same.. give me a shout sometime ,we've got a project brewing you'll like.
cnotron- what did you use where the glue is thick... like the rear area and the sides just above the quarters? A wire or blade?
You could probably persuade a local independent glass installer to let you use his. Trade him some beer or "applejuice" that seems to be the currency of your world
Heat the blade with a torch before cutting, it'll slice right through.
# is the same.. give me a shout sometime ,we've got a project brewing you'll like.
cnotron- what did you use where the glue is thick... like the rear area and the sides just above the quarters? A wire or blade?
Funny you should reply. I thought about calling you on this one. Do you still have the 3913 cell number?
I know how it's attached, I'm not a dumbass. I saw a glass guy the other day with a cordless dewalt tool that looked like it might have been a sawzall. It had about a 10" duckbill blade on it and he cut a windshield out in about 30 seconds. I can't find it on Google, but I bet if I had one of those I could cut the top off... I sure would like to get the top off in one piece.
I know how it's attached, I'm not a dumbass. I saw a glass guy the other day with a cordless dewalt tool that looked like it might have been a sawzall. It had about a 10" duckbill blade on it and he cut a windshield out in about 30 seconds. I can't find it on Google, but I bet if I had one of those I could cut the top off... I sure would like to get the top off in one piece.
12-29-2007, 01:36 PM
#7
Very carefully, we slid in a long sawz-all blade and cut it loose. There's one spot right in the middle of the wider part, just above the quarter where it's a real job to get to.
I honestly never believed that it would work out as well as it has.
I honestly never believed that it would work out as well as it has.
