Inner door fiberglass is broken. need help.. badly.
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I thought my window motor was out on my 99 T/A, so we take the door cover off, and pull the motor and replace it. we go to put it back and notice that its not the motor, the screws that bolt to the inner door are hanging by a thread, and all the fiberglass is broken inside
so we take all of the **** out of the door, and resin it back together with a repair kit, and drill the screws back into the proper place.. now the issue is the window still will not roll up all the way, and rain comes in
anyone have any clue what to do? i have pics. just ask and ill post them in the morning. Im on the verge of buying a new door ![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
this is more frustrating then the rear main seal leak
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Are the bolts in the right location? Also does the glass not go all the way evenly or just on one side? You may need to adjust the window regulator vertical stops at either end or both front and back. There is a metric shitload of adjustment on these cars and it should be able to get you to where you need to go, unless you have a catastrophic failure of some kind. Post some pics of the window and we can probably help you better.
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Are the bolts in the right location? Also does the glass not go all the way evenly or just on one side? You may need to adjust the window regulator vertical stops at either end or both front and back. There is a metric shitload of adjustment on these cars and it should be able to get you to where you need to go, unless you have a catastrophic failure of some kind. Post some pics of the window and we can probably help you better.
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i had the same prob on my 00 z28 i had to replace the motor took it to napa worked great for 3 months then my window started letting water in so took off the panel and they tightened the bolts on new motor too hard and cracked the fiberglass and they wont repair it seince it has been more then like 60 days so i had to epoxy it and that worked for 3-4 weeks now the window is slumping again so im going to take off the panel tommorrow and see what i can do =\
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I just did this about 4 days ago. Mine had worn out the fiberglass and the bolt was going up and down. So I got a piece of 1/8" flat strap, and drilled 5 holes in it. On in the center for the bolt, and 4 on the corners for the rivets. Use rivets for aluminum, so that they aren't as hard. Also, buy backing plates for the rivets, they should be in the same section as the rivets themselves. Then drill where you want the holes in the fiberglass, and put the bolt through the plate, and then rivet it in place. BAM....fixed. Here's what I mean.....
![](http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s237/TxSqueeze/innerdoor.jpg)
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If you replace the motor and use screws/bolt be sure to use some lock tight. If they work loose and the torque/loading of the motor would quickly enlongate the holes and eventually break the inner shell.
I personally like the factory style window regualtor rivets.
I personally like the factory style window regualtor rivets.
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Yes, I agree, but on this particular situation, the damage has already been done. He's looking for a fix. Not how to install a motor on a door with the inner fiberglass still intact like it should be. But I guess he can use it for future refference.
Last edited by TxSquezze4.8; 01-22-2008 at 09:06 PM.
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The motor doesn't attach to the fiberglass panel, the bolts go into a metal bracket behind the panel. You drill holes through the fiberglass to access the rivets and drill them out, but you don't thread the new bolts back through the fiberglass and attach the nuts to it as you have.
Go here and click on #1: http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html
Don't use the crappy panhead screws that come with the motor. Get the biggest Phillips screws that will fit (#8, I think) and use a star washer on the screw head and lock washer under the nut. Loctite is also a great idea. That way you won't have to do it twice as I did.
Go here and click on #1: http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html
Don't use the crappy panhead screws that come with the motor. Get the biggest Phillips screws that will fit (#8, I think) and use a star washer on the screw head and lock washer under the nut. Loctite is also a great idea. That way you won't have to do it twice as I did.
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Did not know that. Mine was attached to the fiberglass. Probably done by the previous owner. That's what I hate about buying used vehicles. You never know what's been done to the car, and if it was done properly!
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The motor doesn't attach to the fiberglass panel, the bolts go into a metal bracket behind the panel. You drill holes through the fiberglass to access the rivets and drill them out, but you don't thread the new bolts back through the fiberglass and attach the nuts to it as you have.
Go here and click on #1: http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html
Don't use the crappy panhead screws that come with the motor. Get the biggest Phillips screws that will fit (#8, I think) and use a star washer on the screw head and lock washer under the nut. Loctite is also a great idea. That way you won't have to do it twice as I did.
Go here and click on #1: http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html
Don't use the crappy panhead screws that come with the motor. Get the biggest Phillips screws that will fit (#8, I think) and use a star washer on the screw head and lock washer under the nut. Loctite is also a great idea. That way you won't have to do it twice as I did.
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The motor doesn't attach to the fiberglass panel, the bolts go into a metal bracket behind the panel. You drill holes through the fiberglass to access the rivets and drill them out, but you don't thread the new bolts back through the fiberglass and attach the nuts to it as you have.
Most cars need the glass adjusted anyway since 95% of them are out of adjustment. The rubber seals also relax/break down over the years making for a poor seal.
Last edited by Jeremiah; 01-25-2008 at 10:51 PM.