bmxer8699

iTrader: (16)

I thought my window motor was out on my 99 T/A, so we take the door cover off, and pull the motor and replace it. we go to put it back and notice that its not the motor, the screws that bolt to the inner door are hanging by a thread, and all the fiberglass is broken inside so we take all of the **** out of the door, and resin it back together with a repair kit, and drill the screws back into the proper place.. now the issue is the window still will not roll up all the way, and rain comes in anyone have any clue what to do? i have pics. just ask and ill post them in the morning. Im on the verge of buying a new door this is more frustrating then the rear main seal leak

bmxer8699

iTrader: (16)

vetman1

iTrader: (4)

Are the bolts in the right location? Also does the glass not go all the way evenly or just on one side? You may need to adjust the window regulator vertical stops at either end or both front and back. There is a metric shitload of adjustment on these cars and it should be able to get you to where you need to go, unless you have a catastrophic failure of some kind. Post some pics of the window and we can probably help you better.

Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

i just wanna know where the hell you got the replacement kit...

bmxer8699

iTrader: (16)

it is evenly cracked all the way to the door. thanks man, ill post more pictures in the morning.

stefan256

iTrader: (1)

i had the same prob on my 00 z28 i had to replace the motor took it to napa worked great for 3 months then my window started letting water in so took off the panel and they tightened the bolts on new motor too hard and cracked the fiberglass and they wont repair it seince it has been more then like 60 days so i had to epoxy it and that worked for 3-4 weeks now the window is slumping again so im going to take off the panel tommorrow and see what i can do =\

AustinDesigns

iTrader: (7)

I just did this about 4 days ago. Mine had worn out the fiberglass and the bolt was going up and down. So I got a piece of 1/8" flat strap, and drilled 5 holes in it. On in the center for the bolt, and 4 on the corners for the rivets. Use rivets for aluminum, so that they aren't as hard. Also, buy backing plates for the rivets, they should be in the same section as the rivets themselves. Then drill where you want the holes in the fiberglass, and put the bolt through the plate, and then rivet it in place. BAM....fixed. Here's what I mean.....

Jeremiah

iTrader: (5)

If you replace the motor and use screws/bolt be sure to use some lock tight. If they work loose and the torque/loading of the motor would quickly enlongate the holes and eventually break the inner shell.

I personally like the factory style window regualtor rivets.

AustinDesigns

iTrader: (7)

Yes, I agree, but on this particular situation, the damage has already been done. He's looking for a fix. Not how to install a motor on a door with the inner fiberglass still intact like it should be. But I guess he can use it for future refference.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

The motor doesn't attach to the fiberglass panel, the bolts go into a metal bracket behind the panel. You drill holes through the fiberglass to access the rivets and drill them out, but you don't thread the new bolts back through the fiberglass and attach the nuts to it as you have.

Go here and click on #1: http://shbox.com/1/how_tos.html

Don't use the crappy panhead screws that come with the motor. Get the biggest Phillips screws that will fit (#8, I think) and use a star washer on the screw head and lock washer under the nut. Loctite is also a great idea. That way you won't have to do it twice as I did.

AustinDesigns

iTrader: (7)

Did not know that. Mine was attached to the fiberglass. Probably done by the previous owner. That's what I hate about buying used vehicles. You never know what's been done to the car, and if it was done properly!

Z284U2TRY

iTrader: (5)

That would be it. i didn't even see how they actualy mounted it like that.

Jeremiah

iTrader: (5)

That bracket you reffer to is the regulator, it has a lot of stress applied to it and transmits that stress to the SMC door structure. Every time the wondow is rolled up and hits the limmits it will flex/distort the inner door shell slightly. I have allways just taken the regulator out of the door and replaced the motor correctly. It probably takes just as long as drilling holes ect. But then again I have also done several of them being a body tech and the R&I and adjustment process is a piece of cake. This thread isnt about a simple window motor replacement, its about the door shell breaking and re mounting the regulator after the door has been repaired/reinforced. This is where I suggested using lock tight to lessen the chance of the problem returning.

Most cars need the glass adjusted anyway since 95% of them are out of adjustment. The rubber seals also relax/break down over the years making for a poor seal.