Nightrydass

Ok; i decided to pull my head out of my *** and look around; in my search i found a sticky (what a suprise).

The Sticky - https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....61&postcount=9

i do have a question though rearding one of the steps:

"10)...If you are using a solid color, that is not metallic, you can wetsand the base coat with 1000 grit if you want, but if it looks good leave it alone"

Now; if i decide to wetsand the basecoat it will become cloudy due to the sand paper grit; do i use a rubbing compound to get that out BEFORE i clear or is that not required?

davidfre21

iTrader: (3)

u cant really buff base, if something it wrong with it (ie dirt, wrinkling or whatever) wetsand it down with some 600+ and then id re-apply some more base. Then clear

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

I usually do, but just a course compound, fine is useless. If your base coat is pretty flat just skip sanding a clear it. Swat

Nightrydass

man, thanks guys. u don't know how damn confused i was. lol. any other advice???

Swiat34

iTrader: (9)

Always remember, it doesn't matter how rough the paint goes on...even if you have a run, it's what you do after that counts. Like wet sanding and then buffing. For example, rattle can paint tends to produce a lot of orange peel and sandpaper-like texture depending on brand/air conditions. Wet sanding a base coat with 2000 grit will flatten that paint out and the paper isn't so course that it quickly wears thru the paint. As long as the paint doesn't chemically react with the primer or clear coat, ANY paint flaw can be fixxed. If you become a wet-sanding expert, you can make any paint look good. Even using a roller to paint a car like Hot Rod Magazine did! Swat