ive been googling around trying to find a good basic table for my 95 z28 with cai, intake elbow, flow booster, crane gold 1.6 rrs, dual coil springs(not sure of brand came with car), pacesetter longtubes with no cats on the ory, flowmaster 80 exhaust and air and egr delete and lt4 knock module...

my car was tuned a while back with a dyno and i put in new o2s and it is just screwing up once it gets to around 160 degrees...i am new to tunercat and i am trying to find a good example to go off of. what are the main tables i need to look at, etc. .bin or .lt1 files would be great. thanks

 

There is a pretty good write up on the web somewhere. Seems like it was on an old LT1 site. If I can find it I'll post it up.

 

This is a good starting point: http://www.lt1pcmtuning.com/tips/

 

yeah i have been reading that one. but i am really trying to pinpoint what is causing my car to bog with 2 new o2s, but when i unplug the drivers side it runs fine..a bit rich but fine

 

How do you know its rich? Wideband reading?

 

Have you looked at bfranker's tunes?
http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/LT1Edit/LT1files.htm

 

wideband is going to be in this weekend...just came in today.

 

What are you using for datalogging? Datamaster? Do the O2 readings look reasonable? KRs? Timing advance? If you could post a log where it starts to misbehave, it might help in diagnosis.

 

i have not been able to data log anything at the current moment because i have been having to drive to school and back...i will prolly log it this weekend..my buddy and i are going to work on it this weekend hopefully. ill post it up when i do though...will freescan work for my car? i tried it the other day just to see if it would read anything but it didn't have any rpms showing..otherwise i will use datalogger and i might use vem to help with the BLM's since mine are at 108 and 160.

 

Your BLMs are certainly out of whack, they should be approaching 128 as you know.
VEMaster works with Datamaster, not sure if it works with Freescan. It is supposed to help dial in the BLMs, at least up to a certain point.
I have read that Freescan will work as a datalogger, but that it is not as robust or perhaps fully featured as Datamaster. At any rate, if it can output a .csv file it will certainly help in figuring out what is going on.
BTW, Datamaster has 20 free uses before you have to pay for it, so you may want to give it a shot.
AFA when you log, going to school and back would be an excellent opportunity to log as many cells as possible to get some readings. Just a thought.

 

well will 8 minutes work enough? the car does warm up but it doesen't for long..but i can always go out for a while after i get out of class. vemaster says at least 3 is for the best. but i will probably do more

 

Not sure on the duration. The articles I read told me to make the runs 15 minutes or so, but I also wait until the car is warmed up before I start logging data.
Also, VEMaster is supposed to get you close, but not spot on. Being that far off, it should help dial you in.
And of course, save your original tune somewhere because VEMaster will alter the .bin file that you input.

 

yeah i am planning on datalogging this weekend...i have already saved my tune right now...but i need to reread my pcm after i plug in the second o2 and see what the difference is after a few min of driving in closed loop.

 

so i have attempted datalogging today...but both datamaster and freescan are giving me the same bs. i follow the steps on tuning tips site..it will read with the ignition turned on. i crack the car up and it will read for maybe a second and then stop. then it will say pcm not correct or some bs like that. so i tried just reading from tunercat..which i have done before twice just a few days ago.....gives me cable error in the first part of reading the computer...tried 3 different times after resetting the ecu by unplugging the battery...changed the com ports...still same problem...my computer is a toshiba lappy with windows 7 64 bit, 2gigs of ram amd 64x2 processor..etc..any ideas?

 

I just want to make sure I understand everything correctly. You are using the same PC, the same cable, the same USB-to-serial adapter, the same version of tunercat, as before?
You installed the s/w in compatibility mode and told it to run in compatibility mode?
You are using Tunercat V2.25 and Datamaster V4.0?

 

yep. everything is the same..i left the battery unhooked since last night i am going to go try again

 

finally got it to read the pcm.... does this look right to you?

 

It looks stock.

 

so its supposed to jump around that much?

 

I'm sure there are GM engineers that will tell you it is. Most non OEM tuners don't tune that way.