Okay just to put some background on the problem I went to a tuner yesterday... does mostly all mustang stuff using SCT BigStuff and AEM, this was his first time tuning with HPTuners.

Now the tune itself came out fine but there are some idle issues we cant figure out .. I will post the current tune and anything else needed.

Right now the main problems are cold start it idles dead lean .. like 18.4 .. stays running when cold but when it comes to temp .. like 180 it goes just like it should 14.7-15.2.

Now after it is warmed up and you drive it when you let off to cost (clutch in or out of gear) it goes pig rich like 11.2 then slowly comes back down (and by slowly I mean it doesn't even let the engine stop reving really it idles back down very slowly) and if you sit there it will slowly lean back out but only to like 12.9 - 13.5 or so ..

also when you start if after it has been running and its still warm it will go real lean and cut off until you drive it some .. dont have to be far just a little bit and it goes to doing the real rich thing again.

What tables do I need to look at and adjust and will this effect the rest of my tune, because it drives perfect in throttle and under boost and I don't want to change the AFR through those times if I can keep from it.

 

Are the injector tables set properly?

 

It's lean everywhere at warm up because the whole OLFA is set to 1.0. Also OL ST trims are enabled. It's fat at throttle lift because the injector short pulse tables are not correct.

Your timing at WOT is at 15 through a narrow mid band and goes back up with cylinder fill. I don't know if you missed that but you'd want to pull it down up top.

Nothing too major here; no worries.

 

Thanks, but I really dont know where to change or how for that matter what you just said .. But thank you for your input .. PM if you would like.

 

Ok so how do I correct the open loop fuel adder tables .. im assuming 1.0 takes the exact percent that is set so I should do 1.20 to add 20% Correct?

Also I have not changed the Short pulse tables so I have no idea how to start changing them or what they should be.

 

First step is getting the injector tables set properly. Then you need to redo the tune because everything will be affected by that change. Sounds like you could benefit from the Greg Banish DVD. I think there is one forsale in the classifieds.

 

The actual injector tables are set fine, I think the short pulse is what was off .. and if I run across one more person nut swinging off of that cd! I would swear everyone on this site gets commission off of selling his cd's.

Moving on, anyone willing to offer any real help?

 

If you watched the DVD then you would have the information and knowledge needed to do this. Good luck with it because with your attitude why would anybody want to help you.

 

I dont have an attitude at all, im sorry if I came off that way, I would just like someone to help me with the problem like Frost was trying to do. Not sell me someone elses product. If I were going to buy anything it would be from Frost for at least trying to help me to start with.

I will just never understand why everyone is willing to do custom turbo kits and trial an error stuff costing them thousands and come post it in the forums so others wont have to go through the same troubles but when it comes to tuning (which I have already done) no one wants to help, everyone wants to sell someone elses dvd.

I mean get a squeek in your car, shock sagging .. someone will quickly post the fix, whats causing it and how to correct it, even write a how to. Car idles a little rich.. have to take that somewhere or but some dvd on how to fix it. Never seen someone recommend a Mitchell manual on how to fix a problem.

Sorry im off my soapbox now. On with the thread.

 

Part of the reason some of this stuff is scarce is because people like myself, before there was a DVD, spent a LOT of time to back solve for the data that you are looking for. No one should be expected to flat give away their work for free, even if it is just data or information. If you want to do like I did the first time... I fully tuned a 100% stock car. I swapped injectors and worked with only injector tables until the car acted exactly the same as it did on the stockers. It wasn't a quick process then either. You can do that, you can get the data that others sell, you can hack around yours until the car mostly does what you want, you can get the data from a forum user who is sympathetic (be very careful what you trust) or you can take the car to a tuner and have it tuned (or done through email since you have software).

For the OLFA, set it back to stock and work from there. If the car is running closed loop, it's gonna command 14.6ish regardless once warm.

 

Like Frost says, I did the same, I started tuning way back when one of the first software came out LT1 edit I believe back in 97. I used my forced inducted car for my training, I also bought a firebird that was my nitrous car and my friend had a turbo car that I used for test beds. I did a lot of trial and error, Luckily never damaging any of the cars. I mean it's like going to a restaurant that has a prize winning house special and asking for the recipe. A lot of people will help you but remember knowledge is what cost..

 

The thing is I have already tried that, I payed for a tune last week and this stuff did not get set right, thats why im trying to come to the forums now and "cut my losses" to get the info I need to set the idle right now. I understand where you are coming from and I respect that, its because of people like you that the info is out there in the first place. I am just trying to sever as much money as I can now that I have already paid for a tune and still have some issues to solve on my own.

 

I see that you attached your file, since I do not use HP I cannot view it, but I'm sure someone that has that software will take a look at it and help you out..

 

Have you cotacted the tuner to get his take on the problems???

 

I have, I was there when he tuned it, there is nothing wrong with the driving part of the tune. This was his first time using HPTuners, and neither of us knew where to make adjustments, we tried several things for several hrs but nothing seemed to be working. He will help me correct the problems at no additional charge if I can find out exactly what needs correcting.

 

I hear ya Super Slow. I come here for information also, where else are you going to go?
Everything I have learned about tuning for years is from this forum. I try to share my experience whenever I can.
This concept of "you have to pay" is real foreign to me. That's why I bought tuning software, I do everything myself.
You have a complex tuning situation, that covers several tuning ranges from cold to warm with a lot of variation, and boost. There is no simple answer. To really "fix" this is more than a just one adjustment. People are trying to help but you have a highly modified car and a tune that is not working, a tuner that does not know the software, and you are asking for a fix that may be hard to find without some work. I'm not suggesting "pay me" or "buy this" but with the combination that you have, it is not going to be easy.

Keep tuning, good luck.

 

Thank you! im not asking for someone to do it for me, I just dont know what to change I have no problem hashing it out on my own, I guess I just dont fully understand the software myself and want to know what tables to adjust and which way to start, that is all, ill put in the seat time myself no issue there.

 

I don't know if anyone fully understands the software. There are a few expert tuners on here that know how to make it work, Frost is one of the best, so I would try what he recommends. Another good method is to search. There is a lot of information there.
Lean on cold start is in open loop so your OLFA should be set back to stock, or try 1.10 if you want to flat line it. I have mine at 1.05 right now to help cold starts. Rich at decel, I turned off DFCO to keep my car from going to 20.5 on decel, now it is rich with DFCO off. You must have the same thing. Keep tuning, keep searching, keep trying, listen to the bits of information and make the most of it, that's how I learn.

 

I can at least tell you to try "ONE" change at a time and give the adaptive learning a chance. Some people will make multiple changes and then some make a change, start the car and if the problem is not gone in a couple of minutes they are making changes again, literally chasing their tails

 

I started off with hp tuners when I turbo'd my firebird and made it work. After I purchased greg banishes dvd I understood alot more. It is not a matter of buying more product or promotion but I can vouch for it saying it helped things make sunse that just reading on the forums I could not process. Dont get me wrong I never would have learned anything if not for the trial and error on my own vehicle but if your going to have a performance car that is fussy the dvd is a small investment. I am not a promoter and people like frost are few and far between. can you post a scan of your car while it is doing this? and possibly the cfg you are using so we can monitor wideband afr afr commanded and afr error? That may help determine the cause. I completely agree with racecar in saying there is more than one problem here. post your stock tune also please I will see if I can assist at all.