Maximum power @WOT
I would stick with the timing TSP put in for you. I have almost the same setup in my car and power peaked right at 30 degrees. In the summer I see a little knock so I back it down to 28. LS engines aren't like the old school SBC where they need a ton of timing to make power. The head and combustion chambers on LS heads are much more effecient so they don't need or like as much timing as old school engines. Sounds like TSP has you right where you need to be and I wouldn't call 31 degrees of timing a safe tune. I'm not saying it isn't safe but it sounds like a good tune.
But what compression are you running?
do you have TX giant too?
then what heads?
my timing at WOT is 31-32 from TSP
thanks
Baezi
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 875
Likes: 2
From: Portland Oregon
I just want to know what kind of fuel you guys are running with 11.5 compression.
You can't be doing that with 92 pump gas can you. ?
Do you buy 100 octane race fuel by the drum. How much do you pay per gallon.
I had a 11.5 LS6 motor and had to run at least 50% of 100 to keep it from knocking at 25degrees. Now I have a LS3 bottom end with flat tops. I love pulling into a gas station and saying fill it up with your finest 92. It never knocks with 29 degrees at WOT.
You can't be doing that with 92 pump gas can you. ?
Do you buy 100 octane race fuel by the drum. How much do you pay per gallon.
I had a 11.5 LS6 motor and had to run at least 50% of 100 to keep it from knocking at 25degrees. Now I have a LS3 bottom end with flat tops. I love pulling into a gas station and saying fill it up with your finest 92. It never knocks with 29 degrees at WOT.
I just want to know what kind of fuel you guys are running with 11.5 compression.
You can't be doing that with 92 pump gas can you. ?
Do you buy 100 octane race fuel by the drum. How much do you pay per gallon.
I had a 11.5 LS6 motor and had to run at least 50% of 100 to keep it from knocking at 25degrees. Now I have a LS3 bottom end with flat tops. I love pulling into a gas station and saying fill it up with your finest 92. It never knocks with 29 degrees at WOT.
You can't be doing that with 92 pump gas can you. ?
Do you buy 100 octane race fuel by the drum. How much do you pay per gallon.
I had a 11.5 LS6 motor and had to run at least 50% of 100 to keep it from knocking at 25degrees. Now I have a LS3 bottom end with flat tops. I love pulling into a gas station and saying fill it up with your finest 92. It never knocks with 29 degrees at WOT.
i´m running 31-32 timing , have never seen knock..
running Shell V-power, i think it´s around the same as yours premium 95 oct
i hope my knock sensor is working though
Baezi
the gas in Iceland is Ron and the gas in the us is a ratio of rom/mon.or somewere along those lines.i was stationed in iceland and in the UK and 95 Ron over sea's is about 90 octane in the us. some of the BP stations in the uk started to carry 98 or 100 ron which i beleve was around 96 octane in the US
the gas in Iceland is Ron and the gas in the us is a ratio of rom/mon.or somewere along those lines.i was stationed in iceland and in the UK and 95 Ron over sea's is about 90 octane in the us. some of the BP stations in the uk started to carry 98 or 100 ron which i beleve was around 96 octane in the US
Baezi
Run 28 deg or 29 deg of timing at most. On ur fuel that is alot. Any more will not get much if any horse power gains. Run 12.8 or so fuel at WOT. Make sure that that your VE table is good. Then set your MAF if u have one. In tuning to much is not a good thing. Lean A/F ratio with alot of timing will eat pistons fast and not give alot of power gains. Part throttle tuning is what take the time. Also a good idle is hard.
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Teching In
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Kuwait
Run 28 deg or 29 deg of timing at most. On ur fuel that is alot. Any more will not get much if any horse power gains. Run 12.8 or so fuel at WOT. Make sure that that your VE table is good. Then set your MAF if u have one. In tuning to much is not a good thing. Lean A/F ratio with alot of timing will eat pistons fast and not give alot of power gains. Part throttle tuning is what take the time. Also a good idle is hard.
you do realise no two engines are the same. 28-29 may be good for you while it maybe to little or too much for some one else that is the reason we dyno tune each car and not run one tune for everyone
It seams to me that if changing the timing changes your AFR (WB reading), then most likely there is not enough timing in the tune to burn all of the fuel (in turn burn all of the O2 it should burn) before the burn is let out the exhaust. I think this is why some people see an AFR change and others do not.
Every combo is different, shape of the piston crown and cylinder head chamber play a roll in this, as well as bore size, fuel type, engine temp, oil temp, spark plug type, cam specs, etc. I would not trust the knock sensors 100%, you have to try and look at several different things to get a good idea as to how much timing you should run. Just because you do not see any signs of knock with 40 degrees of timing on a particular combo does not mean that’s were you need your timing at, it might make more power at 30 degrees.
I know lots of us like to think that the reason we do not need much more then 29 degrees of timing is because of the efficiency of our cylinder heads, but I think it has more to do with the pump fuel quality, the higher compression ratios our LS engines come from the factory with (as compared to old school factory stuff), the low octane fuel we buy at the pump, and the higher engine temps these engines run stock then it does with the cylinder head design. If you cool the engine temps down, run better fuel, and a list of other things you can see a large increase in power from bringing the timing even farther up, but who can pull up to a pump and buy 108 octane fuel for less then 7 bucks a gallon every were they go?
I guess what I am getting at is there is no "x" timing that is perfect, every combo is different and every drives environment is different, thank God for Hp Tuner and EFi Live so we can set up our cars for our situation.
Every combo is different, shape of the piston crown and cylinder head chamber play a roll in this, as well as bore size, fuel type, engine temp, oil temp, spark plug type, cam specs, etc. I would not trust the knock sensors 100%, you have to try and look at several different things to get a good idea as to how much timing you should run. Just because you do not see any signs of knock with 40 degrees of timing on a particular combo does not mean that’s were you need your timing at, it might make more power at 30 degrees.
I know lots of us like to think that the reason we do not need much more then 29 degrees of timing is because of the efficiency of our cylinder heads, but I think it has more to do with the pump fuel quality, the higher compression ratios our LS engines come from the factory with (as compared to old school factory stuff), the low octane fuel we buy at the pump, and the higher engine temps these engines run stock then it does with the cylinder head design. If you cool the engine temps down, run better fuel, and a list of other things you can see a large increase in power from bringing the timing even farther up, but who can pull up to a pump and buy 108 octane fuel for less then 7 bucks a gallon every were they go?
I guess what I am getting at is there is no "x" timing that is perfect, every combo is different and every drives environment is different, thank God for Hp Tuner and EFi Live so we can set up our cars for our situation.
Dynos are for bragging not tuning. The Air/Fuel ratio will change from a dyno to the street. I run my car on the steet. I do not know about you. As for timing, in my world 5 or 10 horsepower is not that big of deal to me. Again maybe it is to you. I want a good safe tune not every horse power I can get.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Kuwait
Dynos are for bragging not tuning. The Air/Fuel ratio will change from a dyno to the street. I run my car on the steet. I do not know about you. As for timing, in my world 5 or 10 horsepower is not that big of deal to me. Again maybe it is to you. I want a good safe tune not every horse power I can get.
the AFR change wont effect anything at all. as long as you are within a safe boundry and to find that boundry you will need a dyno. dyno is not for bragging it is to see the change in power output.
Why bother to tune on a dyno if it all changes on the steet. Who care what the A/F is? I do. I guess I am the only one who cares what the A/F ratio is when I run my car. Why not make it 11 at WOT. That will be safe. LOL AGAIN dynos are for bragging.
