Holley hp and dominator efi ecu for LSX
01-25-2012, 11:53 PM
#41
For the HP, its one kit..plug and play..just pick 24x or 58x reluctor and go..
(24x)550-602
(58x)550-603
For the Dominator
when you buy it...you need to buy 3 harnesses
Main Power Harness 558-308
Main Engine Harness for ls1/Ls6(24x Reluctor) 558-102
or Main Harness for LS2/LS3/LS7(58x Reluctor) 558-103
and
Injector Harness for stock style Bosh Injectors 558-200
or Injector Harness for the EV6 style injectors 558-201
between the Main harness and Injector Harness...you get every connector needed to run an LS Engine..
on both versions...all you need to do is supply the Sensors...
and it will work with Stock LSx Sensors, Holley Supplied sensors, or you can use anybody's sensor and build a custom calibration table for it
01-26-2012, 06:00 AM
#42
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indy
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
certainley makes me feel alot better about my choice.
I was talking to racer the other day and he had asked about ECM, i told him i was going Holley HP EFI his response was
"unless you need more, its the last ECM you'll ever buy" lol. Kind of makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.
01-26-2012, 09:31 PM
#46
and by the way... the Holley Gauges are the way to go... they kick ***...
in this picture
Left to Right
Oil Pressure, Fuel Level, Water Temp(and obviously my TACH and SPEEDO are not Holley Gauges...)
and in this picture
Trans temp, Fuel Pressure, and my Nitrous Pressure(showing Low error because I didnt have the sensor wired up yet..)
in this picture
Left to Right
Oil Pressure, Fuel Level, Water Temp(and obviously my TACH and SPEEDO are not Holley Gauges...)
and in this picture
Trans temp, Fuel Pressure, and my Nitrous Pressure(showing Low error because I didnt have the sensor wired up yet..)
01-27-2012, 02:31 AM
#49
My TCI 6x has a 5 volt sender that I is used internally, and it sends the signal to the trans controller... I tapped into it to get one signal
I have a second signal that is from an autometer 2252 sender in the pressure port on the side of the transmission....Its tricky to get the Holley to use the right values as it wants to default to ohmsx100 if you try to leave the page and go back to it when the high values are 14000+ ohms...so you have to enter it in as 1-10 ohms in the table first, so it will reset to straight up ohms...then you can enter the values as they really are...
if you ever go back to the page with the table though... it will mess up teh calibration and reset to what it thinks is the proper values...so you just have to set it up once the first time and then never go back..LOL...its about the only part of the Holley that I dont like...
but my autometer sender is just there for a backup and a second comparison..
same thing goes for my Coolant temp sensor...I use the GM LSx sensor in the drivers head, and an autometer 2252 in the passenger side head...the GM one is my main one and it tells the fans when to come on, and the passenger side one is Just a double check reference, and it tells me how much heat its gaining from bank to bank as the fluid flows...
I have a second signal that is from an autometer 2252 sender in the pressure port on the side of the transmission....Its tricky to get the Holley to use the right values as it wants to default to ohmsx100 if you try to leave the page and go back to it when the high values are 14000+ ohms...so you have to enter it in as 1-10 ohms in the table first, so it will reset to straight up ohms...then you can enter the values as they really are...
if you ever go back to the page with the table though... it will mess up teh calibration and reset to what it thinks is the proper values...so you just have to set it up once the first time and then never go back..LOL...its about the only part of the Holley that I dont like...
but my autometer sender is just there for a backup and a second comparison..
same thing goes for my Coolant temp sensor...I use the GM LSx sensor in the drivers head, and an autometer 2252 in the passenger side head...the GM one is my main one and it tells the fans when to come on, and the passenger side one is Just a double check reference, and it tells me how much heat its gaining from bank to bank as the fluid flows...
01-27-2012, 02:56 AM
#50
my example being....
I have to set up the temperature like this
then I set the ohms like this at first...
then I exit the page and come back to it and enter the values I really want for ohms values
kind of sucks to have to do that...but it works.
I have to set up the temperature like this
Code:
257 239 230 221 212 203 194 185 176 167 158 140 122 104 86 68
Code:
1 2 2 3 3 4 5 5 6 6 7 8 8 9 9 10
then I exit the page and come back to it and enter the values I really want for ohms values
Code:
352 461 530 612 710 826 964 1131 1331 1574 1870 2676 3911 5844 8935 14000
01-28-2012, 10:48 AM
#51
I know the stock gauges are slow but I will not pull them out. So has anyone run the stock gauges and the Holley system on the motor only? I know it may require sharing sensors or adding some but surely this can be done. BS3 guys have done it. My car has 4700 miles on it not big on cutting but need something better with twin turbos.
01-28-2012, 11:59 AM
#52
I know the stock gauges are slow but I will not pull them out. So has anyone run the stock gauges and the Holley system on the motor only? I know it may require sharing sensors or adding some but surely this can be done. BS3 guys have done it. My car has 4700 miles on it not big on cutting but need something better with twin turbos.
BS3 guys are not controlling the stock 99 and newer dash directly... to use the stock gauges, you would need to piggy back to the stock ECU....or use a 98 or previous dash that still uses mechanical/electrical gauges..
newer dashes use a data stream that has all the gauge signals wrapped up in one signal.
so you either find an older dash that has each gauge separate electrically, piggy back to the stock PCM(which I highly ADVISE AGAINST PIGGYBACK METHODS)
01-29-2012, 09:05 PM
#54
crank sensor is a prefect example.. you get lots of noise making for an inaccurate reading. most of the Thermistor type sensors dont like going to 2 different places...
about the only ones that do well without problems are 0-5v sensors
you only take the ground to your primary device that supplies the sensor with its supply voltage, and only split the positive signal lead...
yes guys do it...but it doesnt work well and most people have some sort of issue when they do piggyback/split sensors.
you can also have backfeeding issues from one piece to the other and you can fry parts or all of one or both of the devices
a lot of times you have to add a diode to control the problem...which gets expensive, and they can skew readings as well..
why fight problems when it can be done much easier and simpler by not trying to use a stock cluster that relies on the stock pcm
01-30-2012, 09:37 AM
#55
many sensors dont like to be split between 2 sources...
crank sensor is a prefect example.. you get lots of noise making for an inaccurate reading. most of the Thermistor type sensors dont like going to 2 different places...
about the only ones that do well without problems are 0-5v sensors
you only take the ground to your primary device that supplies the sensor with its supply voltage, and only split the positive signal lead...
yes guys do it...but it doesnt work well and most people have some sort of issue when they do piggyback/split sensors.
you can also have backfeeding issues from one piece to the other and you can fry parts or all of one or both of the devices
a lot of times you have to add a diode to control the problem...which gets expensive, and they can skew readings as well..
why fight problems when it can be done much easier and simpler by not trying to use a stock cluster that relies on the stock pcm
crank sensor is a prefect example.. you get lots of noise making for an inaccurate reading. most of the Thermistor type sensors dont like going to 2 different places...
about the only ones that do well without problems are 0-5v sensors
you only take the ground to your primary device that supplies the sensor with its supply voltage, and only split the positive signal lead...
yes guys do it...but it doesnt work well and most people have some sort of issue when they do piggyback/split sensors.
you can also have backfeeding issues from one piece to the other and you can fry parts or all of one or both of the devices
a lot of times you have to add a diode to control the problem...which gets expensive, and they can skew readings as well..
why fight problems when it can be done much easier and simpler by not trying to use a stock cluster that relies on the stock pcm
01-30-2012, 04:35 PM
#56
One thing is the LS2 harness will work with a 24x.
I am using this with a ls2 front cover with a 1x cam
I would not try and piggy back to run other stuff. This will deff void the warranty from holley.
I asked about running my spal fan controller off the Holley temp sensor they said not to do this
Tim
I am using this with a ls2 front cover with a 1x cam
I would not try and piggy back to run other stuff. This will deff void the warranty from holley.
I asked about running my spal fan controller off the Holley temp sensor they said not to do this
Tim
02-29-2012, 02:50 PM
#59
LS1Tech Co-Founder
iTrader: (34)
Car Shop Inc
http://www.carshopinc.com
Phone number: 309-797-4188
421 12th Street
Moline, IL 61265
Summit Racing
http://www.summitracing.com
Phone number: 800-230-3030
P.O. Box 909
Akron, OH 44398-6177
http://www.carshopinc.com
Phone number: 309-797-4188
421 12th Street
Moline, IL 61265
Summit Racing
http://www.summitracing.com
Phone number: 800-230-3030
P.O. Box 909
Akron, OH 44398-6177
