Setting Idle on a LS1
#6
If your adjusting for a larger replacement cam, this is from a tuning guide...
IAC Relearn Procedure
If you are having idle issues you may need to reset your Idle Air Control (IAC) and TPS, do this before you start drilling holes in your throttle body (TB) blade. I have used this procedure on some huge cammed cars and it worked.
1) Monitor your IAC, Idle Speed, throttle position voltage and your throttle position %.
2) With the key in the ON position, adjust your TB set screw until your throttle position is 2%.
3) Turn your key to the OFF position.
4) Unplug your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and IAC.
5) Turn your key to the ON position for a few seconds, and then OFF again.
6) Plug in the TPS and IAC and then turn your key to the ON position and restart logging. Your throttle position will now be reset to 0 degrees and about .45-.55 volts.
7) Start your engine, your IAC should be 40-60 for a cammed engine.
If you are not at your desired IAC position, redo the above procedures in smaller increments.
If you are having idle issues you may need to reset your Idle Air Control (IAC) and TPS, do this before you start drilling holes in your throttle body (TB) blade. I have used this procedure on some huge cammed cars and it worked.
1) Monitor your IAC, Idle Speed, throttle position voltage and your throttle position %.
2) With the key in the ON position, adjust your TB set screw until your throttle position is 2%.
3) Turn your key to the OFF position.
4) Unplug your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and IAC.
5) Turn your key to the ON position for a few seconds, and then OFF again.
6) Plug in the TPS and IAC and then turn your key to the ON position and restart logging. Your throttle position will now be reset to 0 degrees and about .45-.55 volts.
7) Start your engine, your IAC should be 40-60 for a cammed engine.
If you are not at your desired IAC position, redo the above procedures in smaller increments.
#7
I also have another idle problem not sure if they are related. Once in a while when I am coming to a stop with the clutch in and off the gas pedal completely the engine will idle at about 1500rpm until about 2 or 3 seconds after the car comes to a complete stop. Then it drops right down to the normal 1050 or so idle..
Any idea why it does that??
Has anyone else done this IAC re-learn with good results??
Thanks
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#8
You need to have the car tuned to work out all of these issues. You can do the IAC relearn but you need logging software to see the readings you need to make adjustments.
You spent money on the cam now either spend money on a program or a tune to take advantage of that cam.
You spent money on the cam now either spend money on a program or a tune to take advantage of that cam.
#9
It was tuned by a shop that was recomended on here..
Not sure why it does it but it isnt all the time so I hate to drive an hour to the shop and not have it do it. That would be my luck!!
Thanks
Not sure why it does it but it isnt all the time so I hate to drive an hour to the shop and not have it do it. That would be my luck!!
Thanks
#11
There's a lot more to tune idle than adjusting an idle screw. It is one of the most intensive parts of tuning and few shops take the time and do it well. You need the correct timing, RAF and a host of other things done. The only time I'd adjust the idle screw is if the IAC counts are too high when the engine is warmed up
#13
I also have another idle problem not sure if they are related. Once in a while when I am coming to a stop with the clutch in and off the gas pedal completely the engine will idle at about 1500rpm until about 2 or 3 seconds after the car comes to a complete stop. Then it drops right down to the normal 1050 or so idle..
Any idea why it does that??
Thanks
Any idea why it does that??
Thanks
He found a faulty brake booster, which had a vacuum leak.
I found a bad manifold gasket.
This solved the problem.
Sorry, guys, I was redirected here from another thread, and didn't realize before I posted, that it is 2 years old.