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Idle tuning clarification

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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 09:44 AM
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Default Idle tuning clarification

I am having a terrible time getting my car to idle on startup and not die when i push in the clutch at a stop sign. i saw a RAF tuning post yesterday that said how to tune for RAF. however, it said start it up cold, and don't touch anything until its up to temp. WELL, it doesn't idle to begin with so how can that work!! OR can i feather the throttle to keep it from dieing until its up to temp?

Secondly, do the main VE table lower ranges (i.e. 400,800,1200) still control main airflow/fueling or are there other IDLE tables that handle that range? or is it based on throttle position to determine which tables control those lower ranges?

(btw - running speed density, closed loop, 2 bar map, lc1 wideband)
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 05:02 PM
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Before you do any idle air tuning, get the car up to full hot temp and check the IAC counts.

Here is an excerpt from text that I send to customers with base files when tuning over email. There are a lot of specifics that don't apply to you, but it tells you what to do to get the throttle body setup:

Before the idle airflow (or any) log: Make sure you are still using RL_CLMAF_1.hpt. This is a normal closed loop (only STFTs) file with normal MAF/VE blending. Before we can make them though, we have to get the IAC into range to be effective. Load the idle-airflow2.cfg file into your scanner. To do this, open the scanner. Click the folder Icon in the toolbar area and point it at the attached idle cfg file. Get the car up to full temp... >175degF. Check IAC counts in the scanner. We need them to be between 40-75ish counts. If the counts are HIGHER than this, you need slightly adjust the throttle body's blade screw in the direction that OPENS the blade. If the counts are lower, we need to CLOSE the throttle blade a bit. If you end up having to open the blade, you will need to reset the TPS. To do this, key-off, unplug TPS, turn key-on (run not start) for 10 secs, key off, plug round 3pin TPS connector back in. At idle when you start the car, verify 0% TPS in scanner (not 0-1 flickering or anything but all 0%). Once this is done, the car *should* idle pretty well on it's own when warm at least on this first base file. This MUST be done before any idle airflow cold to hot logging.
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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frost - thx for the info. where are the .hpt and .cfg files located (hptuners?). i'll check my last scan but i think the iac counts look ok. i'll do more scanning and post a tune when i get back from the long weekend. could u answer the question regarding the tables for me?
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 11:55 PM
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those are the specifics that don't apply to you. When someone buys a tuning through email package from me they get those files (I made them). I just posted that so that you would see how to setup your throttle body blade to get the IAC into working range.
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 08:10 AM
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http://ls1tuningguide.com/tuninghelpfiles.php

Courtesy of 69lt1bird.

There are CFG files and alot of pretty good info here and it also has a link to schematics for our cars.
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 10:41 PM
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that's a good link. i ran across that earlier last week. i'll put it to use and post back. thx all.
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Old Sep 6, 2010 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mterveen
Secondly, do the main VE table lower ranges (i.e. 400,800,1200) still control main airflow/fueling or are there other IDLE tables that handle that range? or is it based on throttle position to determine which tables control those lower ranges?

(btw - running speed density, closed loop, 2 bar map, lc1 wideband)
The fuel is based on the VE table (all RPM ranges), and of course the multiplier tables, open loop EQ, PE, and others.

Make sure your fuel and timing are in line before trying to do your rafig. If they're a mess, the rafig won't be correct.
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