five0killr

iTrader: (2)

99 ss- a few months back the car just cut off after a 20 minute drive and its been driving perfect for five years with heads cam lt's. it came to an idle and then sputtered out with a half tank at normal temp. so i unplugged the pcm and it drove for 15 minutes and then died, so i limped it home revving the **** out of it while it sputtered to keep it running. now when it warms up it might last 10 minutes , it might last one minute...who knows. it threw an o2 heater code and now its throwing no codes. if it cuts out only in open loop, does this mean bad o2s? i inspected my o2's and harnesses and it all looks fine. hope you guys can help


thanks

five0killr

iTrader: (2)

sorry, what i meant was the car dies in closed loop, not open

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

If it ran good for so long and now suddenly dies in closed loop, I would suspect one or both of the O2 sensors. If it was the MAF (which is also showing its age on these cars), it would show up all the time, not just in closed loop... You can verify it by logging it.

five0killr

iTrader: (2)

update: checked grounds, changed plugs , fuel filter, both front o2s (rears have been deleted) and the car runs smooth, revs up smooth, and sounds great UNTIL!(DAMMIT) it warms up and goes into closed loop. its still doing it with brand new o2s so im at a loss. BLK02WS6 i have no equipment to log what the car is doing unfortunately, and its throwing zero codes. however my low coolant light is on even though its full. i can even drive it to get it checked at a shop here locally....it sucks. hopefully someone on here has had this same issue and can give me some direction.

thanks guys

five0killr

iTrader: (2)

bump ttp

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

If you unplug the front O2s, it will force it into open loop so you can drive it to a shop to get it checked...

five0killr

iTrader: (2)

if i unplug them can i drive it a long distance (60 miles)? thats how far away the shop is. and will it still run good? or do i have to take it easy?

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

old O2 in and then go to the tuner. Running the O2 w/o heater operating will kill them. Not sure if 60 mi will, but why chance it....

five0killr

iTrader: (2)

thanks a lot for the quick replies.... well this brings me to my next question. if i had my o2s in, and everything was running fine but suddenly something caused my o2 heater circuit to go bad, would this kill my o2s slowly? or make the car run bad? the reason i asked is because the only code i ever had during this mess was an o2 heater circuit code,and this problem got worse really quick. from the first time it shut down in closed loop until the last time , which was about 5 times that i drove it since this problem surfaced , each of those 5 times it died in closed loop got shorter and shorter. all this resulted in my current situation, which is....as soon as it goes into closed loop...it stalls...however...it took 15 to 25 mins to die after i first noticed the issue. i hope this more detailed explanation helps. thanks for the help guys

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

If you don't have a scanner, how do you know when it is going into closed loop? It could be something as simple as the fuel pump going bad once it gets hot enough. It could very well be some sensor killing the engine when going into closed loop but I'm curious how you know when it has actually entered closed loop?

five0killr

iTrader: (2)

i put a walbro 255 in my car 10k miles ago, dont you think it would be a bit strange for it to die @ 180-190 degrees every time for 10 start ups with a half tank of gas. trust me, its not the fuel pump. i know its going into closed loop when it dies because if the o2s are unplugged it stays running, but if i run it with o2s after the "temp' gauge hits 180/190, it dies. its obvious that closed loop is part of the problem, if not "the ' problem