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Need help with high idle

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Old 09-07-2010, 05:12 PM
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Default Need help with high idle

Long story short, I installed a Shaner S3 throttle body and it idles very high, 1300-1500 rpm.

For the first drive its perfect, spot on (when cold). After that it starts learning itself higher and higher and eventually throws the high idle code. It also surges at idle, by about 50rpm (when warm). The TB is fully closed, set screw is all the way down, and the IAC counts are between 40-60 and bounce around a lot.

All the info I can find are for people having a hard time getting the car to idle because of cam installs, etc. Can anyone point me in the right direction to get the idle down and steady? I tried referencing a tune that had the same mods as I do and it did nothing at all when I made similar changes, so I'm assuming I'm missing something.
Old 09-07-2010, 07:29 PM
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I would start by checking for a vacuum leak.
Old 09-07-2010, 07:34 PM
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I have already checked for leaks and replaced the TB gasket just in case. Its definitely a tuning issue. I swapped back in the stock TB because its pretty quick and it works fine. I ended up swapping the blade out for my stock one since the previous owner has drilled the hole bigger, I thought that might help but its still the same.

The TPS and IAC valve are also the same from my stock TB and they work fine.
Old 09-07-2010, 07:52 PM
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What size is the new one and why are you swapping them.
Old 09-07-2010, 07:57 PM
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The new one is a ported/smoothed stock one. Thats part of the reason why I don't understand it being such a big problem. Its not very much bigger at all, although the IAC port is shaped differently.
Old 09-07-2010, 07:57 PM
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You need a scanner to see the actual voltage at the TPS or a digital volt meter, it needs to be between .47 and .60 volts. Also, in the tuning guide in my sig is a file that has how to relearn the idle.
Old 09-07-2010, 08:04 PM
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I read most of the stuff in there. Its very helpful. I have tried relearning the idle a few times, and it works GREAT for the first 10 minutes, but as soon as I drive it, back to the old 1500rpm idle again.

I'll log the TPS voltage and see what it is. I just start the car, and again when its cold and the IAC hasn't come into range, it idles smoothly at exactly 800rpm where its set.
Old 09-07-2010, 08:57 PM
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TPS is a constant .57v when the car is at idle.

I logged cold start, idle is 790-810 rpm IAC at 0. It stayed that way even when the ECT got up to 198*. I backed out of my garage, idle 750-1150rpm, IAC 0-40 in about 1/2 second increments.
Old 09-07-2010, 09:04 PM
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If you have HP Tuners, try the base running airflow, see if you are getting too much air.
Old 09-07-2010, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 69LT1Bird
If you have HP Tuners, try the base running airflow, see if you are getting too much air.

I can run that, but my question is, why would it only mess up after the IAC is active if that is the case? Wouldn't it just idle high all the time? I guess I'm just not understanding the how all of the parts work together.
Old 09-07-2010, 11:16 PM
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With the IAC valve removed compare the internal seat that the pintle contacts, as well as the size of the passage in the seat. Wouldn,t surprise me if this has been modified or damaged to cause this issue. Also check the depth of the seat from the iac mounting face.
Old 09-07-2010, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.7 ute
With the IAC valve removed compare the internal seat that the pintle contacts, as well as the size of the passage in the seat. Wouldn,t surprise me if this has been modified or damaged to cause this issue. Also check the depth of the seat from the iac mounting face.
I'll check that tomorrow. I didn't even think of that.
Old 09-08-2010, 05:20 AM
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Also in open loop while you are warming up there are several adder tables playing. with the idle.
Old 09-08-2010, 05:22 PM
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Okay I checked the IAC seat and surrounding area, it looks like the same as my stock TB. It seems to have whittled its way down to 1000rpm now, but it still bounces up and down by 50rpm every 1/2 seconds or so, and the idle takes ~15-20 seconds to come down after I put the clutch in and stop moving.
Old 09-08-2010, 05:41 PM
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Do the Russk RAF cfg log on it and see if your base running airflow is off.
Old 09-08-2010, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 69LT1Bird
Do the Russk RAF cfg log on it and see if your base running airflow is off.
I had been using that one already. How do I know what it should be? Would it be better if I just posted the log file so you could see it?
Old 09-08-2010, 06:48 PM
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The log and tune file.
Old 09-08-2010, 07:03 PM
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Ok here it is, tune is pretty much stock M6 right now.
Attached Files
File Type: hpl
warmidle.hpl (1.7 KB, 92 views)
File Type: hpt
M64sept.hpt (449.3 KB, 84 views)
Old 09-08-2010, 07:15 PM
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Do the RussK log from a cold start all the way up to fully hot.

What other mods do you have? With just the one cell you are off my 2 g/sec.
Old 09-08-2010, 07:22 PM
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Mods are BBK intake (comparable to LS6), TB, lid, catback.

Heres cold start to 178*, I can't run the car right now because I'm swapping out my alternator.

What cell are you looking at?
Attached Files
File Type: hpl
coldstart.hpl (23.4 KB, 80 views)



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