4l60e trans tuning after stall
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Hey guys, is it safe to turn off the P0751 and P0757 solenoid code on a 4l60e? I threw a the 757 code and am currently changing both solenoids this evening. My tuner said he did not want to disable the codes? I have a ss4000 yank. Also, my tuner kept lock up in third along with 4th gears? He just adjusted the shift points. Does that sound ok? Just want some opinions.
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When you say lock up do you mean the Convertor clutch while in gear or locked during shifts? If the first it really comes down to your personal preference and how the car acts, if it is surging due to cam size or what not. If you are talking about leaving it locked during the shift from 3rd to 4th, I tried this on mine and it would reales anyways with the rpm going up, then shift, then lock back up. It did not stay loced during shift for me.
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The converter will go into lock up in third, if I hit the throttle a little, it will surge in RPM and then lock up at 45 again. I read a few threads on here saying that the converter should not lock up in 3rd gear with a high stall.
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When you say lock up do you mean the Convertor clutch while in gear or locked during shifts? If the first it really comes down to your personal preference and how the car acts, if it is surging due to cam size or what not. If you are talking about leaving it locked during the shift from 3rd to 4th, I tried this on mine and it would reales anyways with the rpm going up, then shift, then lock back up. It did not stay loced during shift for me.
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It does not buck once it locks in third. Thanks for the info!
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#8
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Hey guys, is it safe to turn off the P0751 and P0757 solenoid code on a 4l60e? I threw a the 757 code and am currently changing both solenoids this evening. My tuner said he did not want to disable the codes? I have a ss4000 yank. Also, my tuner kept lock up in third along with 4th gears? He just adjusted the shift points. Does that sound ok? Just want some opinions.
I personally disallow lockup in third gear because the aftermarket TCC has less surface area than stock... no point in adding extra wear from having it needlessly lock in third, unlock to shift, and re-lock in fourth.
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Only lock up in 4th gear and only after you reach about 45 MPH and then set the lock up release to 50% throttle position. You only have about 1 inch wide band in the lock up clutch of the converter and you can easily destroy this if it is asked to hold much torque. And do not allow lock up during shifts. In simple terms you now have a loose converter and the torque multiplication is what gives you the performance you purchased. 4th gear cruising is the only time you want the clutch to lock up your converter.
And, DO NOT REMOVE THE TORQUE REDUCTION from your transmission and do not shorten the shift times too much. If you do then you will be going down the same road I'm on which is transmission #4.
And, DO NOT REMOVE THE TORQUE REDUCTION from your transmission and do not shorten the shift times too much. If you do then you will be going down the same road I'm on which is transmission #4.
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Only lock up in 4th gear and only after you reach about 45 MPH and then set the lock up release to 50% throttle position. You only have about 1 inch wide band in the lock up clutch of the converter and you can easily destroy this if it is asked to hold much torque. And do not allow lock up during shifts. In simple terms you now have a loose converter and the torque multiplication is what gives you the performance you purchased. 4th gear cruising is the only time you want the clutch to lock up your converter.
And, DO NOT REMOVE THE TORQUE REDUCTION from your transmission and do not shorten the shift times too much. If you do then you will be going down the same road I'm on which is transmission #4.
And, DO NOT REMOVE THE TORQUE REDUCTION from your transmission and do not shorten the shift times too much. If you do then you will be going down the same road I'm on which is transmission #4.
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Only lock up in 4th gear and only after you reach about 45 MPH and then set the lock up release to 50% throttle position. You only have about 1 inch wide band in the lock up clutch of the converter and you can easily destroy this if it is asked to hold much torque. And do not allow lock up during shifts. In simple terms you now have a loose converter and the torque multiplication is what gives you the performance you purchased. 4th gear cruising is the only time you want the clutch to lock up your converter.
And, DO NOT REMOVE THE TORQUE REDUCTION from your transmission and do not shorten the shift times too much. If you do then you will be going down the same road I'm on which is transmission #4.
And, DO NOT REMOVE THE TORQUE REDUCTION from your transmission and do not shorten the shift times too much. If you do then you will be going down the same road I'm on which is transmission #4.
I have removed tq mngmnt from thousands of transmissions over the years... I would advise you to NOT give advice to everyone based on your unique experience. Just because it applied for your year and setup doesn't mean that it is the same for everyone.
This is the biggest rub when folks get tuning help from internet experts. Sure, they tuned their own particular car well but what works for THEIR unique year and OS could be entirely different on the same car made just one year later or before that runs a different OS on their PCM. They take for granted that since it worked for them, it's the same for all LS1 cars. The throttle cracker is a great example... on IAC cars, some OS's it's active with clutch-in and can used to correct clutch-in dips in RPMs. On DBW and even some of the other IAC OS's, it's totally disabled at clutch in. Heck, there are multiple OS's for a single year that act differently.
Not everything is set in stone.
#14
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There is more than one triple disc on the market... it's not what I endorse but there are many out there locking up at WOT in fourth and built for it.
I have removed tq mngmnt from thousands of transmissions over the years... I would advise you to NOT give advice to everyone based on your unique experience. Just because it applied for your year and setup doesn't mean that it is the same for everyone.
This is the biggest rub when folks get tuning help from internet experts. Sure, they tuned their own particular car well but what works for THEIR unique year and OS could be entirely different on the same car made just one year later or before that runs a different OS on their PCM. They take for granted that since it worked for them, it's the same for all LS1 cars. The throttle cracker is a great example... on IAC cars, some OS's it's active with clutch-in and can used to correct clutch-in dips in RPMs. On DBW and even some of the other IAC OS's, it's totally disabled at clutch in. Heck, there are multiple OS's for a single year that act differently.
Not everything is set in stone.
I have removed tq mngmnt from thousands of transmissions over the years... I would advise you to NOT give advice to everyone based on your unique experience. Just because it applied for your year and setup doesn't mean that it is the same for everyone.
This is the biggest rub when folks get tuning help from internet experts. Sure, they tuned their own particular car well but what works for THEIR unique year and OS could be entirely different on the same car made just one year later or before that runs a different OS on their PCM. They take for granted that since it worked for them, it's the same for all LS1 cars. The throttle cracker is a great example... on IAC cars, some OS's it's active with clutch-in and can used to correct clutch-in dips in RPMs. On DBW and even some of the other IAC OS's, it's totally disabled at clutch in. Heck, there are multiple OS's for a single year that act differently.
Not everything is set in stone.
Like he said, My car runs a Billet Multidisk Convertor built for more power then most will make and a 4L80 trans. I throw full boost to it locked all the time in the top of 4th gear. Car makes 844rwhp and 817rwtq, BUT my combo, computer, and personal taste is different then others so I would never tell someone to do what I do for my tune.