FlipediS

iTrader: (7)

I went with LC1 basically because of the price. And seemed easy to hook up to efilive. So far so good. Now to learn how to tune lol.

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

I think it was due to the Bosch sensor, now with the NTK it is alot more accurate...

we will see I guess...I am installing mine this week...

where is everyone mounting there ignition power source and also the ground...I was reading these can play a big role in the accuracy...

Phil'sC5vette

iTrader: (4)

For my tuning I use the LM-1. Its a couple years old and has never let me down. The sensor are about $80 to replace. That hurt.

I plug it into my HP Tuners, and no issues.

tpcaz

I decided to go with the FAST dual wideband. It is easy to install and operate, display is intuitive and easy to read, has options for monitoring AFR for gas or alcohol, allows you to monitor each bank separately or average them, has analog output for use with other equipment, and has its’ own data logging. It was a bit pricey, but to me it didn't make sense to monitor only one bank of the exhaust while attempting to dial in the tune and keep track of how the engine is performing. You cannot guess at what the other side is doing or assume anything. To properly tune, IMHO, you need to know exactly what is going on at any given time.
As a side note, when I had the car dyno’d, I had the shop compare my AFR readings to theirs and the difference was negligible. Nothing that would affect any tuning attempts.

SmokedOutZ28

iTrader: (35)

You will like it. I haven't had any issues with mine and it seems to be pretty accurate. I grabbed my power from the extra spot in the fuse panel.

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

On the fuse panel on the driver side of the dash, if you look at the ports you will notice there is one labeled "ignition" with no fuses. What I did was plugged a spade connector in and bent it 90 degrees and ran a wire up from under the dash. This only has power while the ignition is on. I also wired an inline 7.5 amp mini fuse, I used the steering column support bracket for my ground. Never had an issue.

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

yeah I used that port for my 3 gauges in the pillar pod...not a big deal since they don't draw hardly anything to add the afx top since it draws only 2 amp

I just thought I read it had to be grounded on the block or battery negative cause of voltage drop...maybe that is for other gauges...it says in the instructions not to use the cigarette lighter for power and ground...so I assumed there is bad and good spots to hook up power and ground...

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Just make sure it has a good ground. The innovative stuff has all sorts of ground offset issues.

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

I've had no issues with it displaying the entire range (0-5v) when it does it's initial test on startup. If you cannot get the unit to 0v's and to 5v's than you have a ground issue.

02SOMLS1WS6

So it sounds like many are still really high and recommend the AFX unit. The fact that it didn't score well in the comparison test worries me a little, but that is only one review and as another member said possibly due to the Bosch sensor. The LC-1 and the AEM is the top of my list too, probably the AEM over the LC-1 just due to the problems so many have had with the LC-1.

I need to order this sensor asap so if anyone else has any advice for me on this wideband decision I would appriciate it.

Monte4ever

iTrader: (2)

Bump to the top......more info please.

02SOMLS1WS6

How did the install go and how does the performance look thus far. Where did you locate the digital read out?

Double-L

Well I have a LC1 in my Grand National and never had a problem, A LM1 in my SSR and run it for about 4 years without any trouble, I saw all the things the LM2 would do so gave my LM1 to a friend and got a LM2, It is nothing but junk, I tried working with Innovate with no luck, Never tried any of the others

joecar

BTW: Innovate MTX serial comms has been confirmed to work with EFILive V2.

joecar

I power my LC-1 from one of the NBO2 heater circuits (using an NBO2 connector).

This only works if the NBO2 heater circuit is on constantly (i.e. not PWM switched by PCM).

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

I mounted the digital read out in the air vent on the driver side right under the a-pillar...

It seems to be working fine...although at wot i am at 11:1 AFR...I thought that maybe the sensor/gauge was junk so I hooked my buddies aem up and it read exactly the same...

only thing different from when I dyno is that I run an open Y pipe, for these few pulls I did the stock catback was on the car...I wouldn't think that would make a difference but maybe the added back pressure is screwing with the reading...I need to do a few runs at the track soon and see what it reads...

Speed reads both banks together by sticking the o2 in the y pipe right where the 3-4" flowmaster merge is...so unless the passenger side is super lean like 15:1 for an average reading of 13:1 I dunno what is up...

Going to have to do some more testing like placing speed inc's o2 in the same spot I am running mine to see the difference...

02SOMLS1WS6

Can you post a picture of how that gauge looks installed there? I am trying to figure out wher I want to mount mine, that is an interesting idea that I didn't think of.

mOtOrHeAd MiKe

iTrader: (8)

Here's the MTX-L installed in a temporary fashion under the dash. I stole power from the fuse panel on the side of the dash (via the unused steering wheel controls (provides key-on power, at key-off it holds power on until a door is opened), and it is grounded at the steering column support bracket.

Follow the directions and it is a very simple install.

When connecting it to HP Tuners Pro I created a custom WB input calibration for it using the LC-1 information as a base. Offset voltage is .335, IIRC.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

Bumpin this thread. I'm looking into getting one in the next week or so and wondering the same thing here. Only thing I want is more of a portable unit so I can use it in my truck, car, buddy's cars etc so it has to have a display and where I can hook it up temporally and use it. My buddy has the Inov. unit in his car and seems to work good on his turbo car but still on the fence on what to buy. Suggestions?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I have the LC-1 and it's been acting up. Sometimes it just flashes when I start it and never starts working. I don't know if it's a heater issue or what. I've been using it for about seven months now. When I got my car tuned my gauge showed 12:1 and the tuners showed 13:1@WOT. I replaced my 02's because one was slow. They were black and sooty. I don't know if it's knocked out the W/B sensor or not.

I am going to recalibrate mine but the LED isn't working so I'm not for sure how I'm going to do it.