Help w/ H/C/I tuning
Help w/ H/C/I tuning I'm in need of a little assistance here. I just installed a Vengeance VRX5 cam, TFS heads, a Fast intake, and 36# injectors on my 98 LS1 Camaro. No MAF, attempting to get this running in SD.
If I'm lucky, it can idle for a few minutes on its own before stalling. More often, only a few seconds. Attempting to open the throttle more than a tiny bit will cause it to stall immediately.
Any hints, tips, or ideas?
Scan and tune to follow...
If I'm lucky, it can idle for a few minutes on its own before stalling. More often, only a few seconds. Attempting to open the throttle more than a tiny bit will cause it to stall immediately.
Any hints, tips, or ideas?
Scan and tune to follow...
Set your idle timing around 18-20 degrees for now. I can't open your tune right now because my laptop with all my hptuner files crashed. I'd guess your idle cells on your VE tables is way rich. Set your idle to around 900 rpm or so for now and the 800 rpm column around 40-60 kpa set from 40 and taper up to about 50 by 60 kpa. You are probably way too rich right now do you have a wideband?
After you get it to idle when it's warmed up (180+) you need to get you IAC counts around 40-70. You can do this by adjusting the screw on your throttle body. The more you open the throttle body the lower your IAC counts will go. You will need to reset your TPS sensor after you do this and make sure it still reads 0%.
I am assuming you have taken the proper steps to fail the maf and are actually running in speed density? Oh and I just reread what you posted, I sure hope you have changed your injector settings. If not I suggest not running your engine any longer until you get the correct injector settings. You can wash down your cylinders and spin a bearing from too much fuel in your oil. www.hptuners.com/forum
After you get it to idle when it's warmed up (180+) you need to get you IAC counts around 40-70. You can do this by adjusting the screw on your throttle body. The more you open the throttle body the lower your IAC counts will go. You will need to reset your TPS sensor after you do this and make sure it still reads 0%.
I am assuming you have taken the proper steps to fail the maf and are actually running in speed density? Oh and I just reread what you posted, I sure hope you have changed your injector settings. If not I suggest not running your engine any longer until you get the correct injector settings. You can wash down your cylinders and spin a bearing from too much fuel in your oil. www.hptuners.com/forum
MAF properly failed (also not even on the car), injector settings are proper.
My WB shows that it's extremely lean. Even with the VE tables bumped by ~15% from where I had them pre heads/cam. I'm thinking it's so lean that opening the throttle and adding that extra bit of air is enough to cause it to stall.
My VE tables look pretty high, I can't see that the answer is just cranking them up more. Any ideas on where else to look for the solution here?
My WB shows that it's extremely lean. Even with the VE tables bumped by ~15% from where I had them pre heads/cam. I'm thinking it's so lean that opening the throttle and adding that extra bit of air is enough to cause it to stall.
My VE tables look pretty high, I can't see that the answer is just cranking them up more. Any ideas on where else to look for the solution here?
Cams are less efficient at idle so they're effectively flowing less air and require more timing. Your WB is reading lean because the overlap is pushing fresh air directly out the exhaust, so the NB 02s and WB typically pick up a lean AFR. For a cam of that size you're likely to end up with a 400 rpm VE column that is 50-60% of a stock column. 800 and 1200 rpm columns will be trimmed heavily as well. In fact, most of the cells ~3000 rpm and lower will be equal to or less than stock as a general rule of thumb. Add a little air to the RAF and startup airflow tables (~2 g/sec), add 50-100 revs to startup delay, set your injecting timing to exhaust valve closing point, and bump the timing to the 20-25 range at idle. Don't worry about the idle too much to start with, though. Get it in OL and get the VE correct with the WB first, and then come back to fix the idle up later.
This is a bit confusing.
In its current state, it'll idle with just a little surge as long as I want it to. I can get it up to operating temps. However, opening the throttle to bring the revs up with cause it to die. You'll just hear it suck for air, RPM's don't really increase, and it'll stall unless you let off the gas pedal.
I'm really at a loss as to how to proceed here. What would cause this?
In its current state, it'll idle with just a little surge as long as I want it to. I can get it up to operating temps. However, opening the throttle to bring the revs up with cause it to die. You'll just hear it suck for air, RPM's don't really increase, and it'll stall unless you let off the gas pedal.
I'm really at a loss as to how to proceed here. What would cause this?
You cannot set the P0101, 102 and 103 to no error reported. You have to set them to MIL on first error, and then uncheck the box. This is most likely the whole problem. But, do the following too...........
Turn off your long term fuel trims and leave them off.
The VE doesn't look right. The shape, or the numbers.
Put it in closed loop and try dialing it in until you get it close, then turn the short terms back on.
Log your timing in the histograms. You will probably need to add some timing in the tip in areas, instead of having it drop out.
Zero out the MAF table.
Here just try this one.
ZZZ cam starter.EH1.hpt
Turn off your long term fuel trims and leave them off.
The VE doesn't look right. The shape, or the numbers.
Put it in closed loop and try dialing it in until you get it close, then turn the short terms back on.
Log your timing in the histograms. You will probably need to add some timing in the tip in areas, instead of having it drop out.
Zero out the MAF table.
Here just try this one.
ZZZ cam starter.EH1.hpt
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Good news - changing those three DTC settings corrected the 'it won't rev' problem! Thanks!
Of course, now it's way rich and won't idle unless I hold the throttle. I tried the settings in that tune, my old one, and a blend in between without much success yet.
So here's the puzzle. It idled reasonably well in the tune I had in before. I flashed that back with the only changes being 0's on the MAF table and the three DTC settings corrected. Now it won't idle. Why?
Of course, now it's way rich and won't idle unless I hold the throttle. I tried the settings in that tune, my old one, and a blend in between without much success yet.
So here's the puzzle. It idled reasonably well in the tune I had in before. I flashed that back with the only changes being 0's on the MAF table and the three DTC settings corrected. Now it won't idle. Why?
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Verdad Gallardo Good news - changing those three DTC settings corrected the 'it won't rev' problem! Thanks!
Of course, now it's way rich and won't idle unless I hold the throttle. I tried the settings in that tune, my old one, and a blend in between without much success yet.
So here's the puzzle. It idled reasonably well in the tune I had in before. I flashed that back with the only changes being 0's on the MAF table and the three DTC settings corrected. Now it won't idle. Why?
Of course, now it's way rich and won't idle unless I hold the throttle. I tried the settings in that tune, my old one, and a blend in between without much success yet.
So here's the puzzle. It idled reasonably well in the tune I had in before. I flashed that back with the only changes being 0's on the MAF table and the three DTC settings corrected. Now it won't idle. Why?
Are the VE tables in the tune you posted above anywhere near what my setup might call for? I've made so many changes all over the place with mine that it's probably not the best starting point for this.
