still getting po327 & po332 after replacing sensors and harness, what next?
#1
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Replaced both sensors and harness. New seals in the valley cover because I had oil in the old ones. 80 miles later I am still getting the same codes. What else can cause them? Thanks
#2
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are you sure you have no true knock ? they should be torked to OE specs, and use NO oil or teflon tape or paste, I am sure they did not get get water on them that soon , but you should also " build a dam " around them and seal the upper rubber plugs
good luck I had to go into 3 times ( change both and wires ) now after 4 -5 years no more problems
Johnny
read post # 11 @ https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...read-code.html
good luck I had to go into 3 times ( change both and wires ) now after 4 -5 years no more problems
Johnny
read post # 11 @ https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...read-code.html
Last edited by SS SLP2; 09-03-2011 at 08:31 PM.
#3
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yes, torqued to spec. sealed the plugs down. Havent driven in the rain or washed the car since putting them in, so no way it is water. I'll have to try the diagnostic on it if there is nothing else that it can be.
Do you think that tapping on the engine while scanning it would be able to confirm if the circuit is working correctly?
Do you think that tapping on the engine while scanning it would be able to confirm if the circuit is working correctly?
#6
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Hello. For 4 years my check engine light has been on because of the same issue low voltage in my knock. I just recently took the intake back off my truck out new knocks and harness in. When I took the intake off I noticed some grounds, the one sits just behind the vally pan passenger rear, and the other is on the back of the block on the driver side I cleaned the block and the grounds and my truck runs better and light has not come back on. I can almost say that this is the cause of a lot of our Chevy friends issues with the low voltage you can have 12v all day but a bad weak ground will screw us all. I truly hope this helps and if so let me know.