LS1Edit? Dyno/wideband a must?
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Louisville, Ky
LS1Edit? Dyno/wideband a must? I bought LS1edit. I'm wondering how I'm going to tune my car. I'm told I should tune it with AutoTap on the street and then fine-tune it for WOT on a dyno with a wideband. How close will AutoTap get the tune? Doesn't it rely on the factory O2's? How reliable are they?
If I do this, and then get it on the dyno, approx. how many pulls will I need to get it right? I want 13:1 air/fuel across the board right?
-Is Street and WOT tuning seperate?
-I have dual-electric cutouts 12" after the headers? If they are seperate, should I tune it for the street closed and then WOT with the cutouts open? (I open them for the track and racing.)
How many menu's will I have to change? Is LS1edit kind of like you change menu A, and then when you change menu B it effects menu A? If so I am in a world of crap?
I bought it because:
-I am running pig rich and need to lean out?
-I'm guessing the timing also?
-Raise rev limiter from 6200-6800
-Delete AIR and EGR
-Delete rear O2's
-Delete CAGS
-Delete random misfire
I am wondering if this was a good deal or not. I could have had it dynotuned for $550. I paid $250 for LS1edit thinking I was going to save money and now I might spend $300 to use a dyno. I think it is $100 an hour here or $50 for three pulls.
If I do this, and then get it on the dyno, approx. how many pulls will I need to get it right? I want 13:1 air/fuel across the board right?
-Is Street and WOT tuning seperate?
-I have dual-electric cutouts 12" after the headers? If they are seperate, should I tune it for the street closed and then WOT with the cutouts open? (I open them for the track and racing.)
How many menu's will I have to change? Is LS1edit kind of like you change menu A, and then when you change menu B it effects menu A? If so I am in a world of crap?
I bought it because:
-I am running pig rich and need to lean out?
-I'm guessing the timing also?
-Raise rev limiter from 6200-6800
-Delete AIR and EGR
-Delete rear O2's
-Delete CAGS
-Delete random misfire
I am wondering if this was a good deal or not. I could have had it dynotuned for $550. I paid $250 for LS1edit thinking I was going to save money and now I might spend $300 to use a dyno. I think it is $100 an hour here or $50 for three pulls.
11 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,426
Likes: 0
From: Beaver Falls, PA
just a little fyi. your factory o2's do absolutely nothing at wot. around town driving when the motor can theoretically run an optimum a/f ratio, they are pretty darn close. as far as your target a/f number you are looking at, that really depends on your setup and personal preferences. some people like to run a bit fat, some don't. ultimately, you need to read your plugs to see how the motor is liking your specific tune. oh yea, your street and wot tuning is completely different. street tuning would start with tweaking your ifr a bit and wot will be in your pe vs rpm table.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,428
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From: Las Vegas, NV
TT, I think SStolen was referring to dyno tuning at PE/WOT (obviously), for street use (some people drive WOT on the street too 
), and the fact that a dyno reading at WOT doesn't show the same a/f ratio that is actually occurring on the street, or the track.
SStolen, some software scanning programs allow you to tune your car under an actual real life load, instead of a dyno's innaccurate simulated load, and to tune your car more accurately at WOT. The combination of LS1 Edit, and EASE diagnostic software, allows you to more accurately tune your car at WOT without ever needing to use a dyno, and it doesn't rely on O2s either, but rather delivered torque.
Since LS1 Edit and EASE are not sponsors here, and this combination eliminates the need for a dyno tune (and many dyno facilities are sponsors here too), everyone here will automatically deny this, and toe the line. The short answer to your question is "YES."
That's why I don't come here anymore and post, because business, money, and commerce rules over accurate information regarding the best approaches to tuning, and the best products for the home tuner. Heck, TeamZR1 was a distributor for EASE products and he was basically run off this forum. EASE is not a sponsor here.
), and the fact that a dyno reading at WOT doesn't show the same a/f ratio that is actually occurring on the street, or the track. SStolen, some software scanning programs allow you to tune your car under an actual real life load, instead of a dyno's innaccurate simulated load, and to tune your car more accurately at WOT. The combination of LS1 Edit, and EASE diagnostic software, allows you to more accurately tune your car at WOT without ever needing to use a dyno, and it doesn't rely on O2s either, but rather delivered torque.
Since LS1 Edit and EASE are not sponsors here, and this combination eliminates the need for a dyno tune (and many dyno facilities are sponsors here too), everyone here will automatically deny this, and toe the line. The short answer to your question is "YES."
That's why I don't come here anymore and post, because business, money, and commerce rules over accurate information regarding the best approaches to tuning, and the best products for the home tuner. Heck, TeamZR1 was a distributor for EASE products and he was basically run off this forum. EASE is not a sponsor here.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,428
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
Originally Posted by 66ImpalaLT1
You can buy a wideband for about $400. Ease is not a substitute for a wideband.
I've tried both methods--have you?
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,428
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
Originally Posted by 66ImpalaLT1
Have you run a wideband on the street?
If you go the $400. wide-band O2 route, you still need scanning software to go with it, and of course LS1 Edit. With EASE, you just need LS1 Edit--a $400. savings. Both methods work, but which is a better bang for the buck?
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I tune ussing 1.1 version of A-tap and get it perfect 99.9% of the time before it even hit's a dyno.Takes some learning and practise.
The main area's I look at is IFR first and get them to around -4 to 0 part throttle and make sure they 0 out at WOT.Then work the timing map and lastly do pe vs WOT..The whole time you scan KR and the 02's.My version likes .900 in high gear or 4th.I check low rpm KR by going WOT in 6th from 1400rpm up to 3000rpm.Then 4th gear to the highest you can..
I'm not a fan of trying to tune the whole car on the dyno.
The main area's I look at is IFR first and get them to around -4 to 0 part throttle and make sure they 0 out at WOT.Then work the timing map and lastly do pe vs WOT..The whole time you scan KR and the 02's.My version likes .900 in high gear or 4th.I check low rpm KR by going WOT in 6th from 1400rpm up to 3000rpm.Then 4th gear to the highest you can..
I'm not a fan of trying to tune the whole car on the dyno.