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LS1 to Z06 MAF Sensor Conversion

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Old Mar 13, 2004 | 06:44 PM
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Default LS1 to Z06 MAF Sensor Conversion

What is this: Firebird LS1 - Z06 MAF Sensor Conversion, it's part number 350209. Is it different from their (Granatelli) other MAFs?
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Old Mar 14, 2004 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by BLOODTA
What is this: Firebird LS1 - Z06 MAF Sensor Conversion, it's part number 350209. Is it different from their (Granatelli) other MAFs?
This should help
http://www.c5howto.com/index.php?article=25
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Old Mar 14, 2004 | 09:17 PM
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A Z06 MAF is about a hundred bucks from
gmpartsdirect. GMS has a new line of "low
cost MAFs" that look like a Delphi with a
sticker on it. How original. Whether they have
gone to all the work of soldering on a resistor
like SLP or haven't, for $325, I couldn't tell you.
Dig the markup. Good profit in stickers....
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 09:46 PM
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so is my 98 SLP 85mm recalibrated?
even if it is.. its still running the car CRAPPY
ls1edit dynotuning is now needed
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Old Mar 16, 2004 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Stone0fFire
so is my 98 SLP 85mm recalibrated?
even if it is.. its still running the car CRAPPY
ls1edit dynotuning is now needed
by calibrated, you mean a $0.20 resistor soldered to it, then yes, it is calibrated.

... just put your stock one back on works fine for a mild car,under 450-500 rwhp

Ryan
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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 07:41 AM
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Or you can pull the resistor, measure its value,
and buy yourself a whole dollar's worth of close
neighbors (higher value for richer, lower value
for leaner) and nudge it into place going by LTFTs
(if you can read them).

An 85mm MAF doesn't -have- to suck, that's just
how it usually seems to turn out.
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Old Mar 17, 2004 | 03:02 PM
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Or like in the link I posted, it has the maf table to correct the maf values to work on a F-Body, no resister needed
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Old Mar 20, 2004 | 10:49 PM
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they use a ******* resistor for "calibration"?!!!
i could have gotten a ZO6 MAF for ~$100?!!!!!!!!!
WTF?!!!!!!
why wasnt i told this before?
why hasnt this been mentioned in the MILLIONS OF OTHER MAF THREADS???
this info needs to be an effn sticky, man.

LAST TIME I BUY ANYTHING FROM SUPER LOUSY PERFORMANCE!!!
the timing tricker, the ship shift eliminator, the MAF..
SLP is making mad cash off selling resistors!

so..
how can i go about finding out my a:f?
how can i know which resistor to put in to get the ideal ratio?
what is the ideal ratio?

and now for the stupid question=
what were to happen if i were to hook up a potentiometer instead,
to dial in the ideal a:f???

pardon my profanity,
but it sucks to see so many ls1ers being ripped by this ****-poor company.

speaking of which does anyone know of a cheaper way to have "line lock"?
is that a resistor too?

last, dont want to put back on the stock.
i have an 85mm lid, and the stock lid doesnt make it worth the MAF swap.
i tried it.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 01:03 AM
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the fan switch is a resistor as well

the maf posts say stock maf, as they are best.

the slp calibration is a close ghetto way, and is not right.

Ryan
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 01:25 AM
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hey, i just read about this one guy selling this "maf translator" that lets you change the air fuel ratio. is that just a potentiometer? how can you tell what your a:f is? cant you blow the engine screwed with a MAFT?
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 10:07 AM
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MAFT is more sophisticated. It translates MAF output
frequency to higher or lower and it has a second order
adjustment too. This is good since the MAF is a very
nonlinear critter, not to mention various other engine
behaviors (fuel pressure fade, etc.) that come in at
high end.

There are -plenty- of MAFT threads which you could
dig up and read.

It's a non-programming method of tuning fuel. When
there were no programming options, or only one
overpriced one, it made a better case.

You can hurt yourself with any tool... trick is in how
you deal with learning and safety.
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