Did you tune out P0343 / Cam position sensor? Come in here, need help!
#1
Did you tune out P0343 / Cam position sensor? Come in here, need help!
Car: 99 Camaro SS Stock bottom end LS1.
Recent mods: Heads/cam/exhaust, removed ECU, sent to tuner for re-calibration for bigger injectors and H/C/I/E.
Parts: See sig...
Story: Completed my H/C/I/E install last fall. Installed recalibrated ECU, went to start car. A little hesitant to start at first, attributed to new fuel filter and mods. Did fire up immediately the second time. No rpm on factory gauges. Scan tool reads P0343 Cam position sensor high voltage. Clear SES, same tach issue. Third start, takes multiple attempts to start.
Do a little research, change the Cam position sensor and check my grounds on the back of the driver side head. New sensor installed, grounds good. Should have fired it up at this point, but winter set in and I left it until spring.
Fast forward to this spring. Car is hard to start, idles rough (could be baseline tune), and very rich. Still no rpm on factory gauges. Reset P0343 while idling, tach jumps to 950 rpm for a brief moment, then drops to 0 and SES comes back on with P0343. Car has maximum total run time of 1 hr since H/C/I/E install.
Question: Has anyone here done a crank re-learn to tune out this problem? I doubt my cam bolts are loose at this point and I remember using loctite on the cam bolts and torqueing to spec. I may however, forgot to use loctite on the retaining plate bolts, but they were certainly torqued to spec as well.
Also, anyone else had this issue? Could a sensor that worked fine before mods suddenly be crapped out as well as a brand new one?
I am going to try to re-torque my ECU connections tonight, see if it makes any difference. Next step will be to remove the intake again and the valley cover and see if the lifters are riding the center of the cam lobes or not. Any help/advice is appreciated!
Recent mods: Heads/cam/exhaust, removed ECU, sent to tuner for re-calibration for bigger injectors and H/C/I/E.
Parts: See sig...
Story: Completed my H/C/I/E install last fall. Installed recalibrated ECU, went to start car. A little hesitant to start at first, attributed to new fuel filter and mods. Did fire up immediately the second time. No rpm on factory gauges. Scan tool reads P0343 Cam position sensor high voltage. Clear SES, same tach issue. Third start, takes multiple attempts to start.
Do a little research, change the Cam position sensor and check my grounds on the back of the driver side head. New sensor installed, grounds good. Should have fired it up at this point, but winter set in and I left it until spring.
Fast forward to this spring. Car is hard to start, idles rough (could be baseline tune), and very rich. Still no rpm on factory gauges. Reset P0343 while idling, tach jumps to 950 rpm for a brief moment, then drops to 0 and SES comes back on with P0343. Car has maximum total run time of 1 hr since H/C/I/E install.
Question: Has anyone here done a crank re-learn to tune out this problem? I doubt my cam bolts are loose at this point and I remember using loctite on the cam bolts and torqueing to spec. I may however, forgot to use loctite on the retaining plate bolts, but they were certainly torqued to spec as well.
Also, anyone else had this issue? Could a sensor that worked fine before mods suddenly be crapped out as well as a brand new one?
I am going to try to re-torque my ECU connections tonight, see if it makes any difference. Next step will be to remove the intake again and the valley cover and see if the lifters are riding the center of the cam lobes or not. Any help/advice is appreciated!
#2
Update:
Removed red and blue connectors to ECU, re-torqued and started car (battery was disconnected for connector removal and install). Car fired up within normal time frame, rpm gauge initially jumped to idle speed, but only for 0.5 seconds, then dropped to 0 again.
I removed the intake manifold and valley cover for lifter to cam lobe inspection. I found that the lifters are not sitting dead center on the cam lobes. It looks as though the cam is back too far in the block, forcing the lifters to ride close to the forward edge of the cam lobes. I would attribute this to loose cam bolts as the cam appears to far back in the block.
So, I will have to drain all my fluids, remove my water pump, crank pulley, and timing cover and see what I find. Will update when I get to that point. Was hoping for a computer fix, but this points clearly to a mechanical problem that I am to blame for.
Just when I thought the car was ready to go for the summer Oh well, a trip to the dealer for a new crank bolt, hopefully not too much trouble with the crank pulley and timing cover coming off. Shouldn't be down too long.
Removed red and blue connectors to ECU, re-torqued and started car (battery was disconnected for connector removal and install). Car fired up within normal time frame, rpm gauge initially jumped to idle speed, but only for 0.5 seconds, then dropped to 0 again.
I removed the intake manifold and valley cover for lifter to cam lobe inspection. I found that the lifters are not sitting dead center on the cam lobes. It looks as though the cam is back too far in the block, forcing the lifters to ride close to the forward edge of the cam lobes. I would attribute this to loose cam bolts as the cam appears to far back in the block.
So, I will have to drain all my fluids, remove my water pump, crank pulley, and timing cover and see what I find. Will update when I get to that point. Was hoping for a computer fix, but this points clearly to a mechanical problem that I am to blame for.
Just when I thought the car was ready to go for the summer Oh well, a trip to the dealer for a new crank bolt, hopefully not too much trouble with the crank pulley and timing cover coming off. Shouldn't be down too long.
#4
Did you check where your lifters are sitting on the cam?
I just opened mine up today, cam bolts were tight and torqued. I'm running an SLP double roller timing chain and oil pump.
So, I am stumped...cam bolts are tight to spec yet lifters are riding the front edge of the cam lobes. What gives??
Also, does the cam being too far back in the block in this manner mean the cam position sensor won't read properly?
I just opened mine up today, cam bolts were tight and torqued. I'm running an SLP double roller timing chain and oil pump.
So, I am stumped...cam bolts are tight to spec yet lifters are riding the front edge of the cam lobes. What gives??
Also, does the cam being too far back in the block in this manner mean the cam position sensor won't read properly?
#7
While you have it apart maybe take push rods out and spin motor over to get the lifters up then check the cam for excessive in and out play.not sure if there is a spec for this but should not move much. You didn't install the bearing for the timing gear behind can retainer plate? Correct?
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#9
The motor has the factory cam bearings installed. I checked a few of my rebuild books, and cam play is supoosed to be less than .015" back and forth.
As stated, my cam bolts were tight and torqued properly. The timing gear was fully seated on the face of the cam. It appears as though my cam may be machined incorrectly (odd I know) but I cannot think of any other reason the lifters would be riding the front edge of the cam lobes unless the length of the cam is too short.
I am in the process of removing the cam and going to spec it against my factory one for length, etc. Then if short, I will contact the manufacturer for a replacement and make sure I spec it before install. Just haven't put in the time for the car lately as I have been busy with yard work, planting trees, etc (sucks getting old and taking care of an acreage!).
Hoping to sort this out before August, as I have missed almost half the season to drive the car again
As stated, my cam bolts were tight and torqued properly. The timing gear was fully seated on the face of the cam. It appears as though my cam may be machined incorrectly (odd I know) but I cannot think of any other reason the lifters would be riding the front edge of the cam lobes unless the length of the cam is too short.
I am in the process of removing the cam and going to spec it against my factory one for length, etc. Then if short, I will contact the manufacturer for a replacement and make sure I spec it before install. Just haven't put in the time for the car lately as I have been busy with yard work, planting trees, etc (sucks getting old and taking care of an acreage!).
Hoping to sort this out before August, as I have missed almost half the season to drive the car again
#11
Checked the cam snout, seems like my timing gear is seating fully. Either way, the cam shouldn't be able to go that far back in the block?? The play would be greater than .015" if that is the case. Once the cam is out I will have a closer look to make sure the timing gear is fully seated on the snout.