dw2000ta

iTrader: (4)

i have a 2000 WS6 M6 with a lingenfelter gt1-1 cam 229/242/114 .631/.631, Volant CAI, SLP LT's,and magnaflow exhaust. I had it dyno tuned when i had the cam installed. Things were great for about a week.. My DR O2 sensor is being intermitent now and its causing some idle issues with the ac on. If its off it runs ok..turn it on while driving and it will stall when coming to a stop. If i start it with the ac on it bogs down to about 400rpm and jumps back up and runs ok.

I took it back to the tuner who turned up my idle which is now at almost 1000rpms and i watched him increase some spark tables by 2. he was using HP Tuner as the program.

Im not a tuner so i dont know what he did entirely. He seemed really busy and may have had his head in other places but now. The rpms just linger when i let off the throttle and when i depress the clutch. they dont go down until i slow the car. before today(taking it back to him) they would fall when i let off the gas or depressed the clutch.

Is the tuning messed up or is it just my combo of parts that cause issues? Im replacing the magnaflow and slp's today with hooker 1/34's and TSP true duals with bullets. Also replacing that intermitent O2 sensor.

should I take it back to him or just get a mail order tune from someone well known?

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

9 times out of 10, drive-ability is in the tune. That cam should be able to idle fine with no more than 27~28* of timing. The idle airflow tables need to be adjusted for the RPM and timing settings once they've been changed. In order to do that appropriately, the car needs to be cold. If he's just setting things through trial & error rather than logging & making corrections off of good data, then I'd find someone else to tune the car.

dw2000ta

iTrader: (4)

yeah when he did the"fix" this morning it was almost at operating temp. I only live a few miles from the shop.

the o2 seemed to be workign fine this morning. but i know it has its moments.
do you think the new o2 will clear up some of the idle

BLK02WS6

iTrader: (2)

It's in the tune (though the new O2 sensor will help)... Sounds like he just threw a bunch of air at it to help the A/C problem - that is not the way to do it - there are specific tables to add idle air to compensate for the A/C compressor load.

Tuning idle and driveability are the hardest parts of tuning - some tuners either don't take the time, or don't have the knowledge to do it right...

dw2000ta

iTrader: (4)

would an efi live tune be better? anyone know a damn good mail order tuner? or one that can br paid to send me a map of one to have a local guy load?

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

The part that catches my eye is it being good for a week and then started to get worse. Could very well be an 02 sensor or something.

ScottyBG

Regarding an EFI live tune vs HP tuners. It really makes no difference what software is used, its more about the guy using the software. The end resulting tune should be the same either way, its just whatever the tuner prefers to work in. Since you have already paid the guy to tune the car, I would continue to work with him until he figures it out, within reason. IMO mail order tunes are just to get it close, having the actual car to work with is a big advantage. For example if the problem were being caused by a vacuum leak, defective sensor or such a mail order tuner would be at a disadvantage to be able to spot the problem.

Maniac_64

iTrader: (1)

BLK02WS6 is on the right track. He should've adjusted the a/c peramiters and maybe decel fuel cutoff. Throwing air and adjusting timing wouldn't do the trick IMO. I would, however, get the new O2 sensor in there for sanity sake. Don't want to have 50 trips back and forth only to find out it was an O2 sensor.