FactoryFreak99

Gosh though, it doesnt even try to idle. Seriously, if I plug these o2 sensors it doesnt somehow miraculously fix it, I'm screwed. I dont wanna buy anymore parts for this damn thing. Im on a strict budget.

Athlon2k2

iTrader: (2)

Did you ever get your hands on a fuel pressure tester? I would definitely check that. You want to make sure you can maintain pressure. This would cause the car not to idle.

FactoryFreak99

I cant seem to get my hands on one. I dont want to spend the money to buy one. If I cant find one before the next time I go to Advanced Ill just buy it. Remember though, it ran fine WOT, which is why I havent bought the gauge.

Athlon2k2

iTrader: (2)

Yeah mine did the same thing when I was missing a o-ring. Have you checked to make sure you don't have any cracked fuel lines in the tank?

FactoryFreak99

Ill have to check that out.

FactoryFreak99

Ok guys, got the o2 sensors put in and hooked up. No change what so ever. Maybe a little less smokey and gas smell, but that's it. All together now I have a new TPS, new IAC, MAF is good, new o2 sensors... I think I am going to make a video for you guys later too. I'm thinking crank sensor might be the next thing. My timing graph looked pretty normal though. I don't have any more codes either. Starting to get pretty freaking worried here.

1toofastlt1

iTrader: (4)

My lt1 ran like that when I was converting over to a 2 bar map tune..... I would look into the map/tune

1-87 chevy

iTrader: (15)

maybe he swap injectors and never had it tuned

Athlon2k2

iTrader: (2)

Did you get a hold of a fuel pressure tester. I would use that to eliminate fuel and then focus on the electrical system. There is only about 4 things the computer looks for to turn the car over. The Crank Angle Sensor is definitely one of them. Not sure if these cars have a cam angle sensor. You already have your MAP, MAF and Air Temp connected. Do you have access to a multimeter? You can verify voltage on all of these to make sure they are working before replacing. That should save you some money. I know it is seeming pretty helpless, but I have a feeling it is something simple that is just hiding from you. It has happened to me several times. Keep testing and you'll find the problem.

FactoryFreak99

Is there a way I can look into the fuel trims and tune information without a $300 programmer? I tried to reset the PCM by removing the two fuses for it, disconnecting the battery, and letting it sit while unhooked for about 20 minutes. Unless the PCM is fucked, that would have reset everything to factory correct? That PCM has never had a aftermarket tune on it anyway though so, yeah...

100% sure these are the same factory injectors. I haven't eliminated fuel pressure as a problem yet though. Buying a gauge in about 2 hours. Only way injectors would be a problem is if it was due to the crank sensor, or cam sensor, which I dont think an LS1 has?

Im buying a fuel pressure tester in about 2 hours. Ill update you on that one when I figure it out later. Remeber, I already have a new MAP sensor, new TPS, new o2 sensors, and a new IAC all installed. Only sensor left in the crank sensor I believe. Im going to buy a multimeter also, update you on that too. What voltage to all the sensors mentioned run at? 12v or 6v? Haha, yeah I know I'm gonna figure it out. Just want it running cause I miss revving it up hahahaha. Seems like it has developed a miss on cylinder 5 too, pretty continuously, so I hope I didnt wash that cylinder out. Also that points to that crank sensor as well.

FactoryFreak99

Well got the fuel pressure tester, multimeter, and crank sensor. Unfortunately, boss man called and it sounds like I gotta go outta town for a while. To all the great guys that have subscribed to this thread, please dont unsubscribe!!! It'll be a minute before there is an update, but I might need your guys help still!!! Thanks.

FactoryFreak99

Ok guys, update...

Fuel pressure at the rail primes up to 62psi, and maintains 62psi while running. Drops to like 55psi when it stops priming and engine off. Holds steady there forever.
Tested every vital sensor for power and ground. MAP, TPS, Crank Sensor, but NOT the Cam Sensor. As well as all sensors mentioned are brand new, except the cam sensor which will be in a few days. Did the WD40 trick to test for vacuum leaks, none. No changes...

Now, after looking at a Chiltons' stupid *** wiring diagram I noticed that the Camshaft Position Sensor is the only sensor that ties directly into the entire ignition system? Can someone verify that for me? MAP, TPS, IAC, MAF, o2's, and crank sensor cannot shut your ignition off like what's happening to me. This cam sensor is the only sensor that I haven't replaced yet. Ordered and waiting for that. I also know that the commanded timing advances/retards are all within the parameters of normal.

Where's my freaking code telling me something isn't right here? I get cylinder 5 misfire (I think 5), EGR and AIR codes. None other than that. Had MAP sensor code, replaced it, should be gone. Oh and I reset the ECU 5 times by pulling the fuses and disconnecting the battery in case my never tuned ECU changed fuel trims itself. No change. Also called Texas Speed and talked to a tuner/tech, no help over the phone.

FactoryFreak99

For those still subscribed. Cracked lower plenum on my FAST Intake. Yes I used the right bolts too.