4l60e torque management questions
4l60e torque management questions Assuming a stock transmission rated to handle 360lb-ft, are there any theories for manipulating torque management to not exceed 360lb-ft?
the stock tables seem to kick in a small amount of torque management as low as 177lb-ft. And just cutting it all by 20-30% doesn't seem to fit either. My idea is to zero out the table up to 325 or 354, then dramatically increase the percentage to keep it within that 360 range. Thoughts?
the stock tables seem to kick in a small amount of torque management as low as 177lb-ft. And just cutting it all by 20-30% doesn't seem to fit either. My idea is to zero out the table up to 325 or 354, then dramatically increase the percentage to keep it within that 360 range. Thoughts?
I tried this long ago, trying to get a flat-delivered-torque
profile by messing with those tables. But I ended up with
a weird "hang" that kept the motor at low torque until
I let out of the pedal, in some jerky driving situations.
So I ended up at a simpler scheme and limited the spark
pulled, in the spark retard vs torque reduction table,
and don't really know what the actual torque reduction
is (and the delivered torque PID, is just an estimate
which once you mod significantly, is assuming some
bullshit).
The rating, continuous torque, is not how transmissions
get fried mostly - short line pressure is the easiest way,
like "lean is mean" ghetto mods that fake the sensed
air mass low (or, not raising up your shift and steady
line pressures at medium and higher torques). I like
"all in by 300 lb-ft" myself.
profile by messing with those tables. But I ended up with
a weird "hang" that kept the motor at low torque until
I let out of the pedal, in some jerky driving situations.
So I ended up at a simpler scheme and limited the spark
pulled, in the spark retard vs torque reduction table,
and don't really know what the actual torque reduction
is (and the delivered torque PID, is just an estimate
which once you mod significantly, is assuming some
bullshit).
The rating, continuous torque, is not how transmissions
get fried mostly - short line pressure is the easiest way,
like "lean is mean" ghetto mods that fake the sensed
air mass low (or, not raising up your shift and steady
line pressures at medium and higher torques). I like
"all in by 300 lb-ft" myself.
LS1Tech Sponsor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 288
Likes: 1
From: Mooresville, NC
A stock 4l60 should live behind 400 rwhp all day long. They use torque managment to make them last + 100 miles with slipping shifts. Tighten the shifts up to where they don't drag into gear and avoid 4-2 downshifts and you should enjoy plenty of life with it and zero torque management.
__________________
See what's in our shop on Facebook! Customer Build Blogs!
www.pcmofnc.com
Performance Installs - Dyno Tuning - Custom Camshafts & Valvetrain - Remote HPtuners Tuning - Mail Order Tuning & Sales
704-307-4227
See what's in our shop on Facebook! Customer Build Blogs!
www.pcmofnc.com
Performance Installs - Dyno Tuning - Custom Camshafts & Valvetrain - Remote HPtuners Tuning - Mail Order Tuning & Sales
704-307-4227
Set desired times to zero to disable the adaptive learning,
and then push the shift pressures around to get the action
you want.
When your shift times are minimized, so too is the duration
of the TM spark pullout. You might not even feel it.
and then push the shift pressures around to get the action
you want.
When your shift times are minimized, so too is the duration
of the TM spark pullout. You might not even feel it.
jimmyblue, my stock calibration has 90 as the max line pressure but it doesn't hit 90 until 440 lb-ft on 3-4 shift and even higher on 1-2 and 2-3, so I should change everything above 300 lb-ft to 90 and smooth the table from there down?
I'm not really having any trans problems, just trying to keep it that way.
What I had done previously was reduced shift times to .300 and copied the tow/haul pressure (because it was higher and I figured still safe) and pasted it to the normal table. I was pretty happy with this until I swapped in the cammed 5.3 now I don't feel as comfortable.
I'm not really having any trans problems, just trying to keep it that way.
What I had done previously was reduced shift times to .300 and copied the tow/haul pressure (because it was higher and I figured still safe) and pasted it to the normal table. I was pretty happy with this until I swapped in the cammed 5.3 now I don't feel as comfortable.
