PO-102 out of the blue..
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
PO-102 out of the blue..
Hi,
Recently, I've been getting a P0-102 &
P0-102 P code (MAF circuit low input.)
I have the stock maf with screen intact.
I re-oiled my K&N a couple of months ago
(very lightly I might add) and did not see
the code around that time.
I have an LS6 intake which I installed
a couple months ago which had one bolt
break off into the head at the front left
side. This doesn't appear to be leaking,
but even if it was being past the MAF
couldn't throw this code could it?
I checked the connection to the maf
and it looked good, unplugged it and
plugged it back in. All three wires look
intact.
Performance is still great, no lugging or
missing at any rpm. Possibly a slight hesitation
when firing it up on cold start.
Any ideas for things to check?
Recently, I've been getting a P0-102 &
P0-102 P code (MAF circuit low input.)
I have the stock maf with screen intact.
I re-oiled my K&N a couple of months ago
(very lightly I might add) and did not see
the code around that time.
I have an LS6 intake which I installed
a couple months ago which had one bolt
break off into the head at the front left
side. This doesn't appear to be leaking,
but even if it was being past the MAF
couldn't throw this code could it?
I checked the connection to the maf
and it looked good, unplugged it and
plugged it back in. All three wires look
intact.
Performance is still great, no lugging or
missing at any rpm. Possibly a slight hesitation
when firing it up on cold start.
Any ideas for things to check?
#2
Im having the same exact issue. It might very well be that bolt that broke off because as the engine heats up, the gasket surface expands which in turn will create a vac leak when the engine is up to temp. Let me know how you fix it. Check your ENGINE Sensor fuse also.
#3
Launching!
Thread Starter
^^Good point. Just weird to me that it would be showing up thousands of kms later if that is the cause. I'm going to take the maf off tonight and clean it..worth a shot.
I'll also check that fuse, thanks.
I'll also check that fuse, thanks.
#4
Launching!
Thread Starter
Ok so I checked the engine sensor fuse (OK)
Cleaned the maf (even though it looked fine.)
Checked the wiring (no signs of burning/contacting
headers.)
If the code comes up again, what else should I check?
Thanks!!
Cleaned the maf (even though it looked fine.)
Checked the wiring (no signs of burning/contacting
headers.)
If the code comes up again, what else should I check?
Thanks!!
#6
P01012 means the engine is getting more air than the MAF is reporting, eg. vacuum leak.
If you overtightened an intake bolt enough to break it, you probably didn't use a torque wrench...or at least an accurate one...and therefore the intake isn't sealed correctly.
I'd remove the intake, replace the intake seals, and use an accurate breakaway (click) torque wrench to tighten the intake bolts in the correct sequence this time. They're not cheap, but it's a good investment if you're going to work on your car. Get a reputable 1/4" drive one or find a place that rents them.
If you overtightened an intake bolt enough to break it, you probably didn't use a torque wrench...or at least an accurate one...and therefore the intake isn't sealed correctly.
I'd remove the intake, replace the intake seals, and use an accurate breakaway (click) torque wrench to tighten the intake bolts in the correct sequence this time. They're not cheap, but it's a good investment if you're going to work on your car. Get a reputable 1/4" drive one or find a place that rents them.
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#8
Launching!
Thread Starter
P01012 means the engine is getting more air than the MAF is reporting, eg. vacuum leak.
If you overtightened an intake bolt enough to break it, you probably didn't use a torque wrench...or at least an accurate one...and therefore the intake isn't sealed correctly.
I'd remove the intake, replace the intake seals, and use an accurate breakaway (click) torque wrench to tighten the intake bolts in the correct sequence this time. They're not cheap, but it's a good investment if you're going to work on your car. Get a reputable 1/4" drive one or find a place that rents them.
If you overtightened an intake bolt enough to break it, you probably didn't use a torque wrench...or at least an accurate one...and therefore the intake isn't sealed correctly.
I'd remove the intake, replace the intake seals, and use an accurate breakaway (click) torque wrench to tighten the intake bolts in the correct sequence this time. They're not cheap, but it's a good investment if you're going to work on your car. Get a reputable 1/4" drive one or find a place that rents them.
Thanks..ironically I was using a torque wrench however I didn't hear it click when it reached the correct value.
What confuses me about that possibility (vacuum leak causing code) is that wouldn't it have done that months ago when I first installed the LS6 intake? I don't have any idle issues or surging/vacuum leak related sounds under the hood with it running. I'm not ruling it out, and I do appreciate your advice but just can't wrap my head around it entirely! Plus I'd really like to avoid having to take the intake off, extract the broken bolt all over again
All of the other bolts are torqued correctly to spec and all gaskets are present.
#9
Launching!
Thread Starter
Cleaning it/checking the wires for obvious problems (burnt etc) has been fruitless so far.
Unfortunately, I only have a basic code reader and am not overly skilled at diagnosing these
sorts of things.
I've ordered a new Delphi AF10056 Maf. I really hope that this solves my issue.