P0342 Code
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Oregon
P0342 Code So my car has longtubes and a dumped Y pipe. I removed the AC compressor a few weeks ago and cut the plug for the compressor off along with the EGR plug since it's tuned out. Well idk why or if it caused this but here is my problem: my car then started to back fire sometimes trying to start it and it would take a few tries to get her started but she would. My tach also stopped working. I have a digital one with a shift light that works still but the dash one doesn't. I have never touched the cam position sensor. I have removed the intake once to clean it but that was last august and haven't had ANY probs until now. Anyone else have this happen or know what's up?
Has anyone been inside the engine ? if so, STOP cranking on it. I ve seen this code before ( twice ) and what i found was the cam gear bolts were becoming loose and the cam was walking out, you will have to remove the intake manifold and get a flash light and screw driver and poke at the cam gear. It shouldn't move
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Oregon
Not one bolt has been removed from the engine as far as internals go. Just confuses me cuz I have never had this problem...I put it on jack stands, remove the a/c and cut the connector for the ac and egr off to clean it up a little and then BOOM it starts doing this! It pisses me off, the only thing I have taken off is the intake for a cleaning. Just doesn't make sense
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Oregon
So I read in that link above that a bad battery could cause it. My battery has died numerous times and has had to be jump started and what not a few times in the past couple months to get it started. Anyone else ever have the problem? I didn't mix up the plugs and I have a new cam sensor in and it's still acting up. My next step is to check the crank sensor. If neither of those then I'm stumped
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2012
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The most common cause to the P0342 being set are either an open circuit in the CMP or some sort of damage to the cam reluctor wheel, with the possibility of there being contact between the sensor and cam reluctor. I recommend that you try M. BOZZ's first suggestion and get eyes on the cam and sensor.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Oregon
Alright so I changed the Cam Sensor and the Crank sensor, the car doesn't backfire now while it tries to start but the tach still doesn't work and it's a pain to start. I have never taken anything off the motor so that is what is blowing my mind the most. Car has never done this until it got parked for a couple months and randomly one day started it in the garage and it started all this sh** is my PCM failing? If not I'm putting an MS4 in it this fall, so maybe a retune would do it or get a new PCM?
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
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From: So.Cal.
The problem could be sensor or wiring or connectors or PCM...
you have to troubleshoot using the flowchart: P0342
you have to systematically and carefully work thru that flowchart (print it out, and mark it as you go)...
otherwise you'll just throw money and time away without fixing the cause.
you have to troubleshoot using the flowchart: P0342
you have to systematically and carefully work thru that flowchart (print it out, and mark it as you go)...
otherwise you'll just throw money and time away without fixing the cause.
Im having this same exact problem, i got "low circut to cam shaft sensor" except im getting a P0200 code aswell. My buddy has a fancy *** computer and can get all of my ODD injectors to go crazy ( work ) but all of my even ( pass side ) injectors are dead?
The car takes 6-7 seconds to even fire and runs..
All of my grounds are good. Im stumped aswell, so if you find out anything please post it up and ill do the same man.
Reason i say im having the same problem is you is because i did AC delete and cut those EGR/AC wires off aswell and if it has something to do with those wires im guessing we will both find the source of the problem soon.
The car takes 6-7 seconds to even fire and runs..
All of my grounds are good. Im stumped aswell, so if you find out anything please post it up and ill do the same man.
Reason i say im having the same problem is you is because i did AC delete and cut those EGR/AC wires off aswell and if it has something to do with those wires im guessing we will both find the source of the problem soon.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Oregon
I just replaced the crank and cam sensor. Took it and had a crank variation relearn yesterday and still doing the same thing. I'm leaning towards my battery now. It's died multiple times this winter and it may just be weak. Warming car up and going to O'Reillys to have it tested right now. Will let you know if I find anything out
I don't see how it could be the battery if your alt is charging 13.5+ but who knows? Believe it or not I'm having problems with my battery aswell. My positive terminal has some stripped threads in it and the bolt doesn't get 100% tight. I can only work on my car after work and I'm going to try and get my GM tech buddy to come look at it.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 35
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From: Oregon
Well I replaced the battery and it didn't do anything. Old one was bad so I got the new one anyways. So far, replaced the cam sensor, crank sensor, had a crank relearn and new battery. If your buddy helps you out let me know. I removed the ac compressor and cut the connector off. It's throwing a p0532 code. That low input may cause the cam sensor low input but I don't see how. Let your buddy know that too.
He's not sure he can get to it until this weekend. I'm gonna mess around with it today and plug in my old AC compressor and see what happens. I only cut my EGR because I did plan on putting AC back in the car. It's going to be so stupid if that's the problem.