tq manag?
You will be pushing more torque through the input shaft
on account of the higher STR, and putting more power
through the shifts. People like to just delete it all but
I think there's a better way to go. I've been working on
getting to a torque-limited shift that still keeps about
300-400lb-ft of flywheel torque through the shifts,
something that will leave part throttle alone but skim
off some of the WOT abuse.
You will want to program, no doubt about it, even the
relatively mild SF3000 and stock shift settings will make
the stock torque managed shifts ugly bog/lurch deals.
Knock down the adaptation time, raise the torque
reduction values to something sensible and you'll like
it a lot better, but your tranny will still be somewhat
cushioned against the worst of it.
on account of the higher STR, and putting more power
through the shifts. People like to just delete it all but
I think there's a better way to go. I've been working on
getting to a torque-limited shift that still keeps about
300-400lb-ft of flywheel torque through the shifts,
something that will leave part throttle alone but skim
off some of the WOT abuse.
You will want to program, no doubt about it, even the
relatively mild SF3000 and stock shift settings will make
the stock torque managed shifts ugly bog/lurch deals.
Knock down the adaptation time, raise the torque
reduction values to something sensible and you'll like
it a lot better, but your tranny will still be somewhat
cushioned against the worst of it.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
well can you give me an idea how to do all this , i am new at edit and have mess with stangs untill i got this ta myself and just got edit and the new trans and stall in , see like it works well now shifts on time and no luging or anything no bog, but just would like to tune i out as much as possible , but dont get me wrong i dont wana **** up my new trand either lol, just would like to make them both work together. like i said i dont have any problems yet, but i havent sprayed it yet either. any help you could give or direction i would really be greatful, untill i learn how to mess with all the diffrent areas. also what is the desired shift do? seen its set at 0.450 at normal shifts and per is at 0.000 whats that all about? thanks
Originally Posted by 98tata
well can you give me an idea how to do all this , i am new at edit and have mess with stangs untill i got this ta myself and just got edit and the new trans and stall in , see like it works well now shifts on time and no luging or anything no bog, but just would like to tune i out as much as possible , but dont get me wrong i dont wana **** up my new trand either lol, just would like to make them both work together. like i said i dont have any problems yet, but i havent sprayed it yet either. any help you could give or direction i would really be greatful, untill i learn how to mess with all the diffrent areas. also what is the desired shift do? seen its set at 0.450 at normal shifts and per is at 0.000 whats that all about? thanks
Edit: click the Search option at the top of this forum and do some searching around the on the subject, lots of usefull info.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
You'll be fine deleting TM. He's right in saying the line pressure is what you should watch out for, esp on a stock tranny. Trust me I know. A while back I had AMS increase the pressure because I thought the hard shifts were "cool." I learned my lesson the hard way. Bye bye tranny. C`est la vie.
Delete Torque Management:
a. Go to Trans Calibration / A4 Shift Firmness, Tq. reduction and zero-out the table.
b. Trans Calibration / A4 Shift Firmness / Up-shift Tq. Reduction and zero-out values.
c. Engine / Ignition / Max Tq set to 639 ( do not set over this)
d. Engine / Ignition / Tq. Reduction zero it out.
PS: I like to play it safe, i did not set all tables to 0 , only reduce all by 75 percent, this made nite to day differance on my car running ST 3500, just my .02 Johnny
a. Go to Trans Calibration / A4 Shift Firmness, Tq. reduction and zero-out the table.
b. Trans Calibration / A4 Shift Firmness / Up-shift Tq. Reduction and zero-out values.
c. Engine / Ignition / Max Tq set to 639 ( do not set over this)
d. Engine / Ignition / Tq. Reduction zero it out.
PS: I like to play it safe, i did not set all tables to 0 , only reduce all by 75 percent, this made nite to day differance on my car running ST 3500, just my .02 Johnny
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TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,036
Likes: 1
From: Lake Zurich, IL
Also 1 thing to keep in mind... 98s had the most minimal torque management... when I removed it from my 00 I felt the difference between shifts but wasn't a huge increase. 01 and 02s had alot more torque management...
My 04GTP had a butt load of torque management... when I removed it I could tell a huge difference in shifts (didn't feel anywhere near as lazy)
My 04GTP had a butt load of torque management... when I removed it I could tell a huge difference in shifts (didn't feel anywhere near as lazy)
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
mods are 98ta that has a 273 gear and no lid with ported maf and new built 4l60 with tci sf stall and long tubes and off road y pipe with sims and 3 inch flowmaster am thunder cat back. only edit mods i have done so far is fans and desired shift time to 0.00 from 0.450 if that even done anything, and i do spary the car though. and do have a 373 i am going to put in soon. what ya think or what can ya give me advise on what else to do? and i did delete tq mana. havent messed with anything else. i did how ever notice if leave it in 3rd the car will shoft shift firs gear. thanks
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
Well, first I'd go back to the stock MAF. Ported ends will lean you out unless you tune for it, and personally, since I already blew 1 piston I wouldn't want to do it again because the car was too lean. Stock MAF is good for 600 HP anyways.
Get rid of those 2.73s ASAP.
I felt TQ mgmt a bit when I deleted mine, but I have an 01. It wasn't a huge significant thing to me but there was something different. If you really want to feel the shifts, you can increase the line pressure some at the shift point. I wouldn't advise it though. That can lead to a blown tranny in a short amount of time.
I would say once you swap gears, you'll feel a slight difference. I mean you'll feel a huge difference in the car, but I meant in the shifting.
Get rid of those 2.73s ASAP.
I felt TQ mgmt a bit when I deleted mine, but I have an 01. It wasn't a huge significant thing to me but there was something different. If you really want to feel the shifts, you can increase the line pressure some at the shift point. I wouldn't advise it though. That can lead to a blown tranny in a short amount of time.
I would say once you swap gears, you'll feel a slight difference. I mean you'll feel a huge difference in the car, but I meant in the shifting.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
not going to increase line psi any since i dont want my new trans to go out. and yes im sure the gears will help it. and id ont care for it to shift hard the feeling anyway since the converter will take all the slick of the shift. but any tuning help will be nice thanks.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
I'm a total newbie at tuning. I got LS1 Edit last week and I think I might have finally weeded out all my idle problems. *crosses fingers* Maybe...hopefully...umm..yeah.
Anyways, post up any tuning questions and I'm sure the guru's of ls1tech.com will be happy to chime in. So far they've helped me a lot!
Anyways, post up any tuning questions and I'm sure the guru's of ls1tech.com will be happy to chime in. So far they've helped me a lot!
Ported MAF ends decrease pressure on shifts and
let your clutches sand rather than grab. This is more
of a risk to your new trans (what is the reason you
have a new trans, might I ask? If it's fried clutches
then I'd point the finger there) than the transient
line pressure increase on shifts, which is never going
to exceed the mechanical regulated pressure you see
on WOT shifts anyway.
let your clutches sand rather than grab. This is more
of a risk to your new trans (what is the reason you
have a new trans, might I ask? If it's fried clutches
then I'd point the finger there) than the transient
line pressure increase on shifts, which is never going
to exceed the mechanical regulated pressure you see
on WOT shifts anyway.
Know this is late on in this thread but have some questions as well. What exactly is Torque Management? I have a 99 trans am with bolt ons, 3500 stall and 3.73 gears.
Is there much TW/MM involved on this year and what pros and cons will I see deleteing them out?
Is there much TW/MM involved on this year and what pros and cons will I see deleteing them out?