370 LQ9 and timing
I could go higher, but that map is pretty safe. I also run the High and Low octane maps in Speed Density with the 1-Bar OS upgrade. So that allows me to turn it up more if I want to, since if I get KR, it'll drop down to the lower table. But I'd rather not have any KR.
Auto's run different timing maps than manual cars.
Pretty much comes down to, the tuner should be telling you what timing should be in the car. If you have to tell them because they don't know, they are not a tuner.
Pretty much comes down to, the tuner should be telling you what timing should be in the car. If you have to tell them because they don't know, they are not a tuner.
One other thing: did your tuner tune via lambda or equivalence ratio? I ask, because stoich shouldn't be set to 14.67 in the PCM. It should be 14.14 if you're running E10 gasohol. But if you tune in lambda or EQ, then it won't matter since stoich will still be 1. You just set your stoich value for the gas you run and let her eat.
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Actually I have BR7's gapped exactly at 30, and a/f was originally 11.8 N20 and 12.8 n/a. When time and weather permits we will do more fine tuning, finding new a/f, dynoing, etc....
For now we tool care of the major issue...having 15 degrees throughout the midrange and taking it to 24 now. Much improved just from that
For now we tool care of the major issue...having 15 degrees throughout the midrange and taking it to 24 now. Much improved just from that
One other thing: did your tuner tune via lambda or equivalence ratio? I ask, because stoich shouldn't be set to 14.67 in the PCM. It should be 14.14 if you're running E10 gasohol. But if you tune in lambda or EQ, then it won't matter since stoich will still be 1. You just set your stoich value for the gas you run and let her eat.
Exactly. If you tune your VE table, you're tuning in EQ anyway. But I set my scanner for E10 for my AFR500 from Ballenger (same as the old NGK Powerdex). So at stoich, it still reads the whacko 14.56 on the display (which is wrong anyway - but the display is converting volts seen by the NTK O2) but HPT sees it as 14.14 due to the offset calculation which is V/0.739 + 8.742... Depending on how your wideband is setup, that formula may not work. The AEM and some of the others have a different offset calculation all together.
Exactly. If you tune your VE table, you're tuning in EQ anyway. But I set my scanner for E10 for my AFR500 from Ballenger (same as the old NGK Powerdex). So at stoich, it still reads the whacko 14.56 on the display (which is wrong anyway - but the display is converting volts seen by the NTK O2) but HPT sees it as 14.14 due to the offset calculation which is V/0.739 + 8.742... Depending on how your wideband is setup, that formula may not work. The AEM and some of the others have a different offset calculation all together.
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From: Howell & Fenton MI
Scotty, yes it sucks big time paying $500 for a sub par tune by who I thought was a very to reputable shop! Crazy thing is I would've never had known unless I had this new guy scan my tune profile. I mean the car has great drivability and runs strong at WOT, so I assumed it was running like it should. I think this is what Vector counted on and probably does to others who aren't big spenders at that shop. They can kiss my ***!!!
JakeFusion, I have no clue in which ratio he was doing the tuning, but I am now curious. Like I said I'm waiting on him to send over the timing map, and I'll ask him more questions when I see him next.
JakeFusion, I have no clue in which ratio he was doing the tuning, but I am now curious. Like I said I'm waiting on him to send over the timing map, and I'll ask him more questions when I see him next.
Tuning is not super profitable for most shops. They can't charge for the time it takes to truly dial in a combo and be competitive with shops who just give you a dynosheet.
The difference is of course getting a car that actually drives correctly.
I've been playing with my cracker and follower tables. I can loft the car at 1100 RPM in OD without it bucking like crazy now. That's with 16 degrees of overlap. So you can tune almost anything. These aren't carbs...
The difference is of course getting a car that actually drives correctly.
I've been playing with my cracker and follower tables. I can loft the car at 1100 RPM in OD without it bucking like crazy now. That's with 16 degrees of overlap. So you can tune almost anything. These aren't carbs...
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TECH Senior Member
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From: Howell & Fenton MI
Tuning is not super profitable for most shops. They can't charge for the time it takes to truly dial in a combo and be competitive with shops who just give you a dynosheet.
The difference is of course getting a car that actually drives correctly.
I've been playing with my cracker and follower tables. I can loft the car at 1100 RPM in OD without it bucking like crazy now. That's with 16 degrees of overlap. So you can tune almost anything. These aren't carbs...
The difference is of course getting a car that actually drives correctly.
I've been playing with my cracker and follower tables. I can loft the car at 1100 RPM in OD without it bucking like crazy now. That's with 16 degrees of overlap. So you can tune almost anything. These aren't carbs...
Might I suggest to the OP that he invests in tuning software and a wideband himself? It really is worth the investment of time and money to do it yourself.
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From: Howell & Fenton MI
Yeah, it's pretty good. I noticed a much better low-end and transitions. On my setup I had to add some timing to the top. These 5.3L heads on dished pistons loves timing at WOT.
Might I suggest to the OP that he invests in tuning software and a wideband himself? It really is worth the investment of time and money to do it yourself.
Might I suggest to the OP that he invests in tuning software and a wideband himself? It really is worth the investment of time and money to do it yourself.
I'm currently running the same exact timing as Jake except my idle area timing is lower and my WOT area has slightly more timing. Definitely get HP Tuners pro and a wideband. You won't be sorry.
One other thing: did your tuner tune via lambda or equivalence ratio? I ask, because stoich shouldn't be set to 14.67 in the PCM. It should be 14.14 if you're running E10 gasohol. But if you tune in lambda or EQ, then it won't matter since stoich will still be 1. You just set your stoich value for the gas you run and let her eat.
