PCM Diagnostics & Tuning HP Tuners | Holley | Diablo

370 LQ9 and timing

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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 06:18 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by subeone
lol 27* on that compression ratio, i sure hope you have a big cam to bleed off most of it. Then you have cnc'd heads, which should be more efficient than factory, which generally require less timing.

24* is a very good timing number imo. 15 ramping up to 22-24 is good.
The cam is basically identical to the MS3 cam, but with more advance in it! As far as the timing goes we took it as high as 32 at WOT with no knock or detonation whatsoever, but it wasn't quite as snappy so we settled on 29 as the best fit. We tested the car numerous times at various timing levels before settling at this point.The car seems to prefer this timing abs runs much better as a result
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by HCI2000SS
Bumping this back up because we've run into a issue and am curious too see if others have experienced the same thing. Car runs awesome with the new tune but one little problem....car has trouble starting when cold. My tuner believes it's because of the IAC being closed when I had my throttle body ported. Since we dropped the idle to 800 rpm from 950 it now has become an issue. Raising the idle back up (which I'd prefer not to do if at all possible) may solve the issue and/or going back to a stock throttle body as well. So I guess my question is are there any other possible solutions to this problem other than what I've already mentioned? Thanks
When I "adjusted" my tune I developed a cold start issue also. What solved my problem was adding a little air to the Initial Startup Airflow table in the ECT section where your problem exiist.
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Monte4ever
When I "adjusted" my tune I developed a cold start issue also. What solved my problem was adding a little air to the Initial Startup Airflow table in the ECT section where your problem exiist.
the problem is 90 percent of the iac circuit is blocked off with epoxy. Command whatever airflow you want but if it physically can't flow anymore air you are SOL. You lose all your resolution when this happens. Be there done that.
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by HCI2000SS
Pain in the *** isn't lol! What's wrong with your tune?
Rod, drilling the blade will do nothing that cracking the blade with the throttle stop won't already do. I told you what the problem is, believe it or not.
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 04:10 PM
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^what he said. if your iac is blocked off it wont do anything. drill the iac hole back out to 3/8 and i bet it will go away. Samething happens with a lot of the fast tb. The iac hole is too small for big cammed cars. I went through the same thing and I maxxed the iac out on startup and added more air, nothing helped. I could crack the blade and the car would start up just fine but then my iac wen to 0 at operating temp to control idle and that took all of the adaptive idle control away from the pcm so that didnt work either.

Went to a NW tb and changed NOTHING from the fast tune and it busts right off every time. I actually had to lower the tables because it was too high from the fast. In general though adding startup airflow and then controlling how fast it gets ramped out will solve that issue
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by redbird555
^what he said. if your iac is blocked off it wont do anything. drill the iac hole back out to 3/8 and i bet it will go away. Samething happens with a lot of the fast tb. The iac hole is too small for big cammed cars. I went through the same thing and I maxxed the iac out on startup and added more air, nothing helped. I could crack the blade and the car would start up just fine but then my iac wen to 0 at operating temp to control idle and that took all of the adaptive idle control away from the pcm so that didnt work either.

Went to a NW tb and changed NOTHING from the fast tune and it busts right off every time. I actually had to lower the tables because it was too high from the fast. In general though adding startup airflow and then controlling how fast it gets ramped out will solve that issue
Thank you for reinforcing.

I would just swap to a fast 90 or do the 90 mm tb mod if it were me. Or I would sell that tb and port a stock tb without touching the iac circuit.
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Old Nov 11, 2014 | 02:27 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by JDMC5
Rod, drilling the blade will do nothing that cracking the blade with the throttle stop won't already do. I told you what the problem is, believe it or not.
No I totally understand that part Jesse! I was just asking the other guy about his situation. To be perfectly honest if the car only has this start up issue in very cold temps I might be ok with that for now and here is why...first the car almost never sees temps below 40 or so anyways (fired right up this morning and was in the mid 40's) and even on the very rare occasions that it does its not like the car won't start at all...all I need to do is feather the gas for a few seconds and it's fine. Combined with the fact that the car is in storage it's not a concern to me. When spring hits maybe I'll just get another stock TB and have it ported the right way, or buy a Fast intake if the funds are there. My main concern was with drivability and performance and you did a awesome job there! We will deal with this tiny issue sometime in the spring....no biggy
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