Car won't turn over
Car won't turn over About a week or two ago my starter died out on me. Pulled it off, got it tested and yep dead. So I replaced the starter, went to turn the car over and it won't start. The engine turns but its not firing. Ran my little hand held on it and picked up two codes P0118 (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor High Voltage code) and P1637. A little lost at what to do at this point, would replacing the temp sensor allow the car to start? What should I look to next to help solve this issue?
Ok ill check my wiring again, tomorrow its too cold in the garage now. Im curious tho as to why a possible alternator wire or even the coolant temp sensor would keep the motor from firing.
Well, think of the "Big 3" that come off the battery (or 4 if you wired your fuel pump in directly). The alternator, starter, and fans are the factory big three. There is a relay on the driver side for the alternator.
But if there is anything screwy with the wiring between those three then the car isn't going to start due to a faulty connection. If the battery is powering the starter, than the issue is likely the alternator is breaking the circuit somewhere or the wiring coming in or out of it is not making a good connection. Hell, if you miss a ground on the back of your heads, the car won't start. Mess with a Big 3 and it amplifies the issue.
The coolant plug issue won't cause it to not start. That might be an unrelated problem.
But if there is anything screwy with the wiring between those three then the car isn't going to start due to a faulty connection. If the battery is powering the starter, than the issue is likely the alternator is breaking the circuit somewhere or the wiring coming in or out of it is not making a good connection. Hell, if you miss a ground on the back of your heads, the car won't start. Mess with a Big 3 and it amplifies the issue.
The coolant plug issue won't cause it to not start. That might be an unrelated problem.
Update; well i check all my wiring seems good. The exciter wire, has a butt connector inline so I'm sure thats the p1637. Probably tugged on the connection. Car would still not fire. So I got a fuel pressure tester, and yep no pressure at all. Checked the 20 a fuse in the engine bay and it showed that it is getting power. Is there any other way I can test to see if I can isolate the issue to a possible bad fuel pump?
That's good that you have eliminated the wiring issue. I had the same problem with the exciter wire and had to redo the wire for it. It just made it wonky when driving around, but didn't affect the start.
As far as fuel pressure, did you check to make sure the fuel filter isn't clogged? That's an easier test than trying to drop the tank and pull the fuel pump (or cutting a trap door). One test you can do is to listen for the fuel pump when you turn the key to ACC. Stock is quiet, so you might have to get under the car or pull out the carpet in the back. My Walbro I can hear spin up from the driver's seat.
As far as fuel pressure, did you check to make sure the fuel filter isn't clogged? That's an easier test than trying to drop the tank and pull the fuel pump (or cutting a trap door). One test you can do is to listen for the fuel pump when you turn the key to ACC. Stock is quiet, so you might have to get under the car or pull out the carpet in the back. My Walbro I can hear spin up from the driver's seat.
Yeah, I'm going to head back to the store and get a fuel filter. I already have the trap door done. I was just wondering if there is any other way I can see if the pump is getting power besides the fuse in the bay. The original owner installed a viper alarm, I'm wondering if some sort of kill was activated. But I did attempt to start the car with the push button on the remote and still no fire. If it is the fuel pump no big deal, I need to upgrade anyway. Im just worried if I get a new pump and have the same issue you know.
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Verdad Gallardo I yes, but I think it works in conjunction with the viper system. I traced the viper and that harness seems like something I don't want to mess with. But either way I figure if there was a kill in it wouldn't the fact I used the systems remote start bypass that? Im going to see if there is power going to the pump. Going to use a light probe and test the gray wire on the very top of the pump. I figure if the probe lights up and the pump doesn't prime its dead. That is the best case scenario, just replace the pump. If not its got to be a wiring issue in the security system. This is turning into a head ache real quick.
Yeah, I don't know how those Viper systems are tied in. I know VATS can give some real problems on the car. Hopefully it's just the pump as that would be easier to deal with.
Well I went to test the wiring to the fuel pump. Previous owner installed the hot wire and used a butt connector on the grey wire. I crammed the tester in there and had the wife turn on the car. As soon as she did the pump primed! I yelled crank it, and boom car came alive! So i guess the butt connecter was not completing the circuit. So Im going to solder it the right way, but now its time for a beer! Thanks for your help man, its crazy how something so simple can shut everything down.