glennhl

TIMMEH,
I've just put in a TSP 224/581/112 cam. I also have some minor mods like a lid and a 160 stat. I am waiting to receive Stainlessworks LT's, but they aren't due in for another week.

I've got it to idle by opening the blade slightly, resetting the TPS just the way you list it (let me confirm, the TPS is on the throttle shaft? I assume the top switch is the IAC valve). I also go through the idle relearn by letting idle for 5 minutes in nuetral (6 speed) with A/C off. My biggest problem is the "cruise control" effect, it just won't slow down off of 2500 rpm. I can live with it for another couple of weeks, then after the header install I will have the car tuned. I'm just hoping that with the tuning I can eliminate the "cruise control" effect.

Thanks,
Glenn

Another_User

You probably went too far. What are your IAC counts when warm?

WS6snake-eater

Major cruise control here as well... I am going to try backing my up a bit.

angst911

that might take some tunning to fix that... there are a whole lotta tables for IAC values at different speeds and such... I know my tunner had to do a lot of work with them to find a happy medium between not stalling and the rpms dropping.

SS125

iTrader: (1)

I have a question. The tb set screw you are talking about. This is the torx screw that is directly under the throttle stop that is quite difficult to get to, correct? Also, the tps is the connection that is on the bottom, like it's inline with the throttle arm, correct? What is the sensor that is on the top side of the throttle body?

SS125

iTrader: (1)

I've taken a mirror and looked at this torx screw. I like the idea of putting it in from the top, but isn't the head a little too tall and will open the throttle quite a bit more than required? If I look at mine, there is very little of the screw protruding from the top, and if you screw it in from the top, the screw head is quite thick and would be alot too tall. Am I correct?

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

I put mine in from the top and i'm really glad i did, it's so much easier to adjust (as long as the engine's not running lol). If you look the screw protrudes out a couple turns, which is very close to the thickness of the screw's head. If i remember correctly, when i screwed it all the way in from the top it read less than 1% on the throttle position sensor.

As for the other plug on the throttle body think you're talking about the idle air controller motor.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

You guys who are getting the cruise control effect, are your idle air in gear tables stock? I get the cruise control thing sometimes, but i raised my idle air tables to 8.6 g/s warm idle, maybe i shouldn't have? I did notice that once i come to a stop the rpms immediately fall so maybe i should be looking at the throttle cracker airflow vs mph tables instead?

glennhl

I haven't checked my IAC counts. I'll have to go over to a friends house and use his autotap. However, I know if I go any further in on the idle screw the car will die with the A/C on. It's on the ragged edge now and I still get the "cruise control" effect. I'm going to get it tuned by someone that's done a bunch of LS1's here in Arizona so I know he'll do everything possible. I'm just not sure what can be done as far as tuning.

Thanks,
Glenn

CHRISPY

I did this a couple of days ago and verified everything last night. It works like a CHARM

My IAC counts are 25-30 warm and no more cruise control effect.

Had to fool with it a bit but it works great

TIMMEH

First, the sensor you want to unplug is on the top...not the bottom. Second, I'd recommend you put the set screw in so the head is on top. Much easier to deal with.

Glenn, a tuner WILL be able to eliminate the cruise effect with tuning. However you can "band aid" it temporarily by using the method described in this thread. If anyone has edit I'll be glad to walk people through what to adjust in the tables. Just shoot me a pm.

glennhl

I need to confirm where the TPS is located. I just assumed that the TPS would be the bottom one on the shaft. I autotapped my car and set the idle screw to where the TPS read 3%. Then I unplugged the bottom connector, turned the car on and then off and replugged in the bottom connector and the TPS read 0%. That told me that the bottom one was the TPS. Could someone please confirm this.

Also, the top one has to be the IAC one because it's located where the bypass air passageway is. It would also be difficult to read a position from the top.

Thanks,
Glenn

TIMMEH

yep, you're right. I'm stupid. TPS = bottom, IAC = top. I've been resetting the idle air motor...but hey it's been working! LOL

CHRISPY

TPS is defintely on bottom.

Another_User

I don't really consider this a "band-aid" fix. I could tune all day long with my HPTuners, but from what I have seen, this is the most effective. I haven't made any changes to my idle air other than this.

TIMMEH

Every car is different...

Black02SS

iTrader: (36)

I haven't drilled my TB yet, but have adjusted the set screw once. It looks to me as though it had been adjusted before because it is almost all the way screwed in. No matter what I do, I can't get my counts below 90. Any ideas? There are NO leaks on my car BTW.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

You screwed it all the way in from the bottom or from the top?

glennhl

TIMMEH,
Thanks for confirming the TPS is on the bottom. I'll bet you really don't need to reset the TPS as long as you only go a small ways in. I would think there is a tolerance for the idle TPS setting and you are probably still below it.

Thanks,
Glenn

Black02SS

iTrader: (36)

From the bottom. I haven't moved it to the top. Is this not correct?

IAC Park Position

37 32 27 25 23 18 14 13 13 13

Idle Air
26.00
24.23
22.24
19.92
16.00
15.00
14.00
13.00
12.50
12.09
11.43
11.23
11.10
11.10
11.10
11.10