been play with HPtuner
thanks
saved reading is the first

start up engine warm

engine at idle

last one is reading engine still cold
I looked at your tune and noticed:
1. Injector size is about 32 lb/hour which is bigger than stock
2. PE table leaned out to 1.15, which is better than the stock 2.25.
3. Your Spark table has much more advance at WOT than stock, also good.
4. Your high throttle VE values are curiously 5% less than stock.
Also, you Idle Airflow values are completely different; just about every one is different from stock. Since you have a stock cam, I would go back to the stock 2002 Camaro values and change as little as possible from there.
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Check out the idle thread on HPtuners forum called "about to throw in the towel nailing down idle" or something like that. 5 litre eater has a great method of nailing down idle airflow that really helped tame my big cam and clean up idle corrections.
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I just looked at the all the spark/advance tables, and the idle advance should be around 28*. While the screenshot above shows 14.5*, I suspect the overspeed table is reducing it as much as possible.
I now see that the base idle airflow table has values of 0.0 (!) for Drive, which is completely wrong; the Park/Neutral values are reasonable.
Perhaps the throttle adjustment screw is too far in, the TPS voltage is too high and the TPS % is not zero.
There are so many changes all over the place, that it is hard to determine the root cause. I would suggest the following:
1. Start with the 2002 Camaro stock tune.
2. Change the Injector Flow rate to the values in your current tune.
3. Change the PE table to the values in your current tune.
4. Change the High and Low spark table to your current tune.
5. Possibly change the Idle Spark Advance tables to your current tune.
That is just my amateur opinion.
i was told that i have larger injectors , but this is something to start with for sure , the car runs great all but the high rev on start up , i checked it again and it goes to 2k on start up ,, like i said it runs great ,, i am hoping to get better gas mileage after i got my o2 working , we'll see
thanks again
You can confirm that the PCM is switching by logging "Idle Base Gear Airflow" in the scanner. You don't even need the engine running, just the ignition on and move the shifter from Park to Reverse, to Neutral to Drive. That value should change, assuming you have different values for "Gear" and "P/N".
Note that the value will be much higher than the Base table because of other adders for starting.
i did see that my PRNDL Equipped is set to none under system , is that right ??
i check another 5.3 tune and its set to PRNDL
thanks
Last edited by lilrobo; Sep 10, 2015 at 04:08 PM.
If your shifter has switches for Park/Neutral, I would suggest wiring them up to the PCM. (I think it is pin 36 on the C1-Blue connector)
The set PRNDL to "PN Only".
If you don't have any switch, then "None" is probably better, but i don't know which line of the Base Idle Airflow table it would use. You will have to find a compromise between Park/Neutral and Drive.
gmorris: Yes of course the method of recording and then setting the Base Idle Airflow works for any cam. If you look at the OP's tune you will see that nearly every Idle related table/setting has been changed to a non-stock value. Maybe you know how the minimum changes to fix his problem, but I would have to start over with stock values.
its a aftermarket steering column ,so no switches , i have a accout over there i will check it out and look for a stock 5.3 tune , the only thing i know different is i do have larger injectors , thats all i know from stock . like i said it runs great ,as is but the high idle on start up , maybe i can find a few other things that might make it run better and get better MPG
thanks again
According to the peak in your VE table, your max torque is around 5200 RPM versus 4400 for stock. Therefore your engine may have a moderate cam upgrade too.
Do you have a wideband gauge and logging on your car?
IMHO that is the only way to even begin tuning as the first step is to get the VE table dialed in as much as possible and then work on the idle.
Without a MAF and OL your VE table determines all fueling. It will determine your power, your gas mileage, your idle, everything.
You said you "turned on your front O2 sensors", but they are not turned on in that tune; your Closed Loop (CL) enable temp is set to 285.
I notice that none of the 100+ members here that know tuning way better than me are chiming in, probably because they are thinking "buddy, you need to start over from scratch".
Therefore I am going to step out now too - install a wideband O2 if not already, follow my steps in #9 above, and you should have a reasonably well running car. Find a tuning tutorial on HPT for tuning from scratch with a wideband and follow it.
Last edited by mrvedit; Sep 10, 2015 at 08:54 PM.
you might be right , i might have to get someone to re-tune this for me , would i get a engine light if they wasnt working ?, i would love to get a stock tune and load it and see how it does , i will work on what you said in #9 and get back , i am going slow with this , lucky the car runs great , maybe it will run better once i redo it
thanks





