mysticpete

Hi guys, hope someone can help here

This is the exact issue that 73240z had way back in 2008 reported on the hybrids site http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/6419...m-please-help/ and so I am reprinting his issue which is Exactly the same as mine...

Now the engine was running fine when initial testing started but then one day it just petered out and stopped and now it won't start..

"When cranking, the engine will crank without firing for the first couple cranks. Then, it will start to fire in each cylinder, one every couple strokes. Once I have been cranking it for a little while, there is firing in all of the cylinders, but its very rough and it wants to die out. The longest I can get it to stay running is only about 2-3 seconds, then it will cut out. It will also not start at all when I just touch the gas, as if more air is making it cut out completely. Right when I start it, it will fire a cylinder and a few others with no problem, after that it will just die out slowly."


The Only difference in this setup from user 73240z is that ​the fuel feed is based on the 2005 Corvette filter which incorporates the return, so there is no return from the fuel rail.

​Any help would be appreciated.....
Pete

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

There's a diagnostic forum for this type of issue...

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Beat me to it every time! Lol.

Chevy406

iTrader: (12)

1. Put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail fitting to see what your rail pressure is with the fuel pump running.
2. Are you showing any DTC like crank position?
3. I've seen similar problems with a crank reluctor wheel not true or installed backwards. Is your crank brand new?

mysticpete

Thanks for moving the thread for me

mysticpete

I've checked everything electrical and mechanical and its all good, the fact that the car had been running perfectly is what's bugging me.

I have seen many members say to check the VATS (which I had disabled) but as the car was running I did discount this, however a few members have said that this condition (crank, fire and die after 2-3 seconds) will happen if the VATS has re-engaged (don't know how this would happen on its own?) so......

Can anyone state what conditions will exist if the VATS is engaged and you try and start the engine, bearing in mind this only has the PCM (no PIM, BCM etc.)??

RBCUDA

iTrader: (6)

If it's a VATS system like whats in the F-body (resistor pellet on the key) it will disable the starter. If it's a Passlock system PK3 on the key, it will disable the fuel injectors. Start and stall the first time tried, then won't hit much after that if it's active.

mysticpete

Its the Passlock system, but I had the VATS checked again on Monday and it is definitely disabled. still the issue is there, rechecked all the voltages OK, going to test the line psi next as this is the only other thing it could be now...

weird thing is that when i'm trying to start it the mixture smells really rich from the exhaust?

mysticpete

OK, for those who maybe interested, but probably will not do the daft thing I did, here is the solution to my issue.

First I got hold of a fuel pressure gauge and tested from the fuel rail, 0 psi reading, next i disconnected the first filter stage and tested direct from the pump, still 0 psi (but I can hear the pump going). so now I have to get the pump out of the tank, something I had been dreading if I had to do it, anyway after a short while I managed to get it into the right position for it to lift out.....

Low and behold the problem is staring at me, a blown fuel line that connects the pump barb to the fuel line barb on the sender unit.

So my lesson is not to use underrated fuel line for the pump and use the correct fuel line for the return as this was not correct either and had shrivelled up.

Some photos that say a thousand words...