Hey I'm doing a 4l80e swap in my 2000 trans am and I think I have the segment swap all figured out. I didn't know if anyone had advise on my idle problems. I bought the car 8 years ago and it has 60lb edelbrock fuel injectors. I've never been able to get the car to idle out of the 10's. I'm struggling on finding good information on them. No doubt they are made by a large injector company, but I hate to buy the tuning guides and the info not be in them. Unless my best course of action is to get it tuned by a pro with some experience or buy a new set of injectors.

I have hptuners pro (bought a few months ago.)

Thanks for the help!

 

Why do you have such big injectors? Do you have a power adder?

 

They were in the car when I purchased it. Always thought about boosting the car but never have and didn't want to throw money at injectors if I could just tune them correctly. Maybe it's a lost cause but guys run them with boost all the time and don't have problems at idle.

 

What is your HP level?

 

its a cam only car. never had it dyno'd but somewhere in the high 300's I'm guessing.

 

If you go with the stock injectors, you should be able to dial in your idle easier I would think. You may have double the injector size that you need.

 

the info on the injector is
edelbrock 3528
4197q09295
Seimens deka

 

Post your tune and a data log of it idling. 10's at idle is way off, Im guessing there are going to be several things not right in the tune if you feel it's a tuning issues and not mechanical.

 

Here is the tune that came in the car. I bought it 8 years ago and have been running it ever since (only put probably 5,000 miles on it that whole time). I'm putting a 4l80e in the car now so I don't want to do a log incase the flywheel wants to get caught on a wire. I should have it put back together in a week. I still need to do the segment swap but I think I can handle that. The fueling is what is driving me crazy. Thanks for any help!

 

Without a log its hard to say whats going on forsure. There are alot of things in the tune that I would do differently though. You may do better just starting over from stock and re-tuning when you do the 80 swap.

 

Sounds like they are Siemens Deka 60lbs... you can make them idle up no problem. I'm not at home though, but there is Ford Data on those injectors that make them a breeze to tune.

 

I have the same injectors, are you referring to the dead time?

 

sent a couple pm's to you guys. thanks for any help!

 

Here is the info for the Deka 60s...

Copy the info from Flow Rate vs KPA; Offset vs; Short Pulse Adder; and Min Injector Pulsewidth. Also, change your Min Fuel Milligrams under transient to .020.

That will get you very close on the data. Then you can start to tune the VE table.

 

Great! thanks for the help

 

If your car truly is idling at 10 AFR then your O2 sensors are not working or the car is not going into closed loop.

What in the world is going on with your VE table. Why do you have zeros in it?

Fix your O2 sensors or whatever is keeping your ECM out of closed loop.
Start the tuning by using the correct injector data that Jake supplied.
Next copy and paste a stock VE table
Then setup the ECM for a speed density tune and work the fuel trims down by adjusting the VE table.
Follow that up with a MAF tune and you should have much better results.
You should really re-consider the ignition timing tables too.

 

Thanks chevy. This is all new to me and this was what was in the car when I bought it 8 years ago. Basically stored it and finally getting it out now. Thanks for the help!

 

Just posted this elsewhere, but this should help...

Disable the MAF - see the HPT help site for how to disable MAF to tune in SD.

Once done, take your VE table... multiply the 400 by .6, the 800 by .8, and the 1200 column by .9. Then select all out to 2000 and smooth it. Change your idle to 1100 in the colder cells stepping down to 950 at 150+ degrees. Change your timing to about 25 degrees in the idle table. Change everything in the OLSD table in fueling to 1. Save that file and upload it.

Check your idle. With HPT, bi-directional controls, lean it out from 14.7 to 15.2 or so and keep going til the idle stabalizes and it starts to chop. If that number is 15.8 in the bi-directional controls, divide it into 14.7... 14.7/15.8 is .93. Multiply your 800 and 1200 columns by that number (.93), save and reflash. You should be idling around 15.5:1 at that point and the cam should like that. You don't even need your wideband. Watch your narrowbands. When they are under 100mv... down to 30-50mv, you're lean enough. The sound also gives it away. You can also add timing... 26-28 may be ideal. Add timing until the kPa readings drop to their lowest number. Then back off a degree or two. That'll give you the "smoothest" and strongest idle.

Next day after the car has cooled off, restart it and put it in gear but don't drive it or touch the gas (also disable the fans in bi-directional controls - you don't want airflow adders). In fact, go ahead and zero out all your adaptive airflow tables as well. Use the stock imperial HPT cfg. Let it warm all the way up. Take the base airflow numbers in the histogram and update the Base Running Airflow table in idle. Reflash (putting the stock adaptive airflow numbers back in). Then check and see if your mv for the O2s changed significantly since you changed the airflow model. You may need to mess with the bi-directional controls again, but it will be close.

If the throttle response is a little less than ideal, add 2% fuel to the 1200 column. Then you can start really tuning the VE table. Add about 6 degrees across the High Octane Timing table and copy to the Low table. Just drive it around with the wideband or you can use the narrowbands. Don't get into PE mode. Just drive around keeping it near 14.7:1. Update. Drive. Update. Do that 4-5 times and the VE will be dialed in pretty close below 4k RPM. You'll be able to drive to tuner and get WOT dialed in. MAF can be dialed in on the street as well using the same method.