ok heres the deal.. had my car for about 3 months after about 2 weeks i noticed a problem and it was reoccuring basicly i start my car and its almost like it wont kick in.. i have to hold down the gas for like 30 minutes and slowly go from about 2500 rpm to about 800 rpm which is the idle point.. when i start it sumtimes my rpm will jump from 1100 to 300 and back up to 1100 and down to 300 and then position itself. if i go to quick after letting it idle with no foot on gas.. it will sumtimes die. and then the check gages light comes on... i supposibly got it fixed at this goodyear shop they gave me sum bs about my MAF and ended up costin me 400 to fix. the next day the problem is still there.. i just got back from vacation so my car got sum rest.. but the same problem presist.. and now the service engine light is on.. its been doin this for about 2 months and i have had it.. i thinkin about takin it up to chevy dealer and seeing what they say.. anyone have any ideas? it runs pretty rich by the way.. but i mean once you get going you have no problems its just when you start the car after letting it sit for more than 3-4 hours.. help is greatly appreciated thanx.

 

get something that can pull the code and go from there. Got a friend with an autotap or scanmaster?

 

yea well the code last time when it was doing this was to the MAF so says goodyear on there scanner or whatever and they said they fixed it but it was doing it again the next day.

 

Take it to RPM Shop In Lewisville, Tx and get a Tune by Chris Robinson and that will fix it.

 

you positive? how much for a tune.. and what about service engine light..?

 

Unless you have a bigger cam or major engine mods you shouldn't need a tune to correct the problem you are describing. If you paid 400.00 for a MAF then I don't know what to say
Autozone used to scan cars for free and they may still do this. I haven't checked but you could give them a call or any auto parts store.
Their may be trouble codes that are not setting your SES light.
If you don't have any codes you just need somebody that understands what normal range values for O2 readings, IAC, MAF, etc.. and use something like Autotap, EASE, EFI Live, Tech II, Actron, or whatever and have them set in your car while you crank it and they should be able to see what is out of range.

 

i have a small comp cam. its just a tab bigger than the stock one.. i guess i will get this tune.. as long as its not to much money and hopefully it will be fixed.

 

I know when these kinda symptoms you are describing happen on fords, its usually the Idle Air Control(IAC), not sure about LS1's though.

 

it just pisses me off. a tune sounds like it would probably help.. not to mention i run a little rich. need to get that twerked a little.. maybe JRP would know.. he knows everything.. lol

 

Could be the iac sensor. Could also be just too rich at idle in open loop. Usually takes me 10 minutes and a couple adjustments to dial in the idle with ls1edit. I set it to about 15.1 -1 af on the wideband at idle by adjusting the idle set screw on the tbody and playing with the main ve table. A competent ls1 shop should be able to quickly get your problem figured out.

 

thanx man sounds good. i think it has to do with that exact thing you said..

 

me=not a happy camper.

 

It could be the IAC counts being off? Maybe the motor is broken. My car would also stall when one of the 02's was acting up but this was only on warm starts. I would not trust what good year says and I would read/pull the code myself. Like they said above you can go to autozone and they will pull it for you.

 

have you had a tune at all or are you running all your mods on the stock tune? even with a small cam the PCM should be able to compensate for it. i would do what monodax says, log some data with atap/efi from startup to full operating temp and see if anything pops ups. then go from there.

 

I would bet on the iac.

 

You can go to RPM in Lewisville, or AMS in Arlington and either one fo them will be able to scan it and fix it for you. If it is a tune you want I recommend RPM unless your all out race.

 

99CamaroSS,

Having an automatic and a cam will require tuning - I had a 216/220 cam and I had to have my Z tuned cause it would stall at every single light. It ended up requiring an IAC adjustment and increasing the DIS (desired Idle) to 800rpm.

A tune can cost anywhere from $300-450 depening on where you go, if all you want is a code read Im sure there are plenty of people nearby that can help - hell if you cant find anyone in short distance, drive up to McKinney and I'll scan it for you.

Also, Id suggest you wait for a tune since it seems your waiting on your LSX. A re-tune may require dyno time (assuming its dyno tuned) and that usually runs me $50 at the shop I goto.

When it comes time to have it tuned, definitely goto RPM Motorsports...

Hope this helps.

 

I would remove the iac motor and clean the carbon from it. I would also go to autozone and get them to hook there scanner to it, and see what code it set like someone else suggested.

 

I agree. Get all your mods before paying for the tune.

 

Try swapping the BBK TB for stock. Sounds similar to what happened when I ported my TB (which ended up idle air issues). Could be IAC motor also.