blackdak318

iTrader: (3)

DAMN! That sucks. But appreciate the info. Think I'm going to go the JS Alternator route.

jayyyw

Sorry man! Yeah, seems like something is up with their QC these days.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

I had the owner/manager call me yesterday and discuss what he did/didn’t find. It was a catastrophic failure. Dead short. He said he is kind of bewildered why it did it. He can’t come up with any reason outside of a manufacturing flaw in the stator.

He is going to put it back together with all new parts. Even though he doesn’t usually have issues with how hard I’m spinning it, He is going to slow the alternator down a bit. Then went on to say he is going to beat the ever living snot out of it today to make sure it is 100% ready for me.

**** happens so I won’t count them out yet. Customer service is just as important as the product, and so far I’m happy they are doing what they can to figure out the issue.

I made them well aware there is a huge community of us fighting the same charging issues looking for a reliable fix 😂

stevieturbo

$180 fixed mine lol.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Man All the alternators I tried.. reman.. stock replacement, 145amp truck alternator... all of them had the same issue.

i spent more than the damn Mechman searching for alts. And the mechman was the only one charging at 6500rpms++.

guess I’m super unlucky

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

You're not the only one brother! my power master still doesn't charge for ****.

tblentrprz

25% underdrive balancer sounds like the easiest approach to avoid rev'ing alt into unhappy territory. $129 for gen 3/gen 4 truck version Dayco PBU1190SS25 PowerBond Balancer at AMZ (returned item)

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

A company like ICT billet could really jump on this and make some money! Make us a proper 3.25" alt pulley (or what ever size is needed). Changing a crank pulley is a PITA on most cars. Zipping off/ON an alt pulley is a 3 minute job! and then you aren't under-driving your water pump. Anyone have a contact? They are local to me I'll eventually make my over there and bug them.

stevieturbo

My alternator came with a slightly larger pulley at no cost.

Although just checked the receipt from 7 years ago and it was $260. Still worked perfect all that time.

blackdak318

iTrader: (3)

Well I hope to be reporting back with good news regarding my own charging issues in the next few weeks. I ended up going with the powermaster 200 amp xs volt alternator and the larger 3" ebay pulley already posted here. Also decided to go to a 14V system at the same time so bought a D1400 and charger from XS Power. At 7500 rpm I'll only be spinning the alternator 17.5k based on my math. Fingers crossed this all works out as I have planned.

tblentrprz

I hear ya on harmonic balancer may not be the easiest to replace in certain setups. May be a larger alt pulley option https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...EaAvFbEALw_wcB

or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/krs-krc40150600

dlandsvZ28

This diameter alt pulley appears to match your max rpm requirements (dependent upon crank pulley diameter of course).

https://lsxinnovations.com/product/l...2-85-diameter/

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Thats looks like a cool light weight pulley. But I think their math is off? That would spin the alt to 19,605 rpm at 7450. And the 3.10" pulley pictured in this thread is $20. (its really 2.95 or so going by the surface it rides on) Is the surface the belt rides on on the OEM crank pulley smaller than 7.5"?

tblentrprz

Based on the pic, that pulley looks like it's 3.25" compared to the front cover of the 105A alt. May be a phone call to see if the pulley in the pic is available.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Mechman round 2! She looks brand new. Still have 4awg wiring with a remote battery so I’m debating on upgrading before I put it on. Gunna cost probably $2-300 to go to big stuff. Still in debate. I’d be good with 4awg with a engine bay mounted battery. But I’m REALLY pushing it with a 250a alt on a 20ft 4awg battery charge wire if it pulls anywhere near that at any point.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

you can get 25' 0 gauge battery jumper cables for $37 shipped on amazon. Thats 50' of zero gauge wire! I ordered a set a few weeks back. Pretty good deal IMO.

jayyyw

I used 1/0 welding wire from Amazon. With fittings I have less than $100 into my battery cable. And that's buying a $20 crimper tool.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

Holy crap that’s double 0. That is a good deal!

What you guys using for fuses/breakers with this big *** wire? I have a dedicated alt charge wire Back to the battery as well so I’ll have to buy another 25ft of 1 or 2awg.

blackdak318

iTrader: (3)

Well thankfully my purchases paid off nicely. Fired the car and drive it around both Friday and Saturday. As noted above I ended up upgrading to a 14V system via an XS Power D1400 and then Power Master XS Volt 200 A adjustable alternator. I did all this because on the dyno I discovered I was having issues with battery voltage dropping into the 11's and I believed it was affecting fuel pressure as I had very short momentary drops in fuel pressure that seemed to correlate with the drop in pressure. Thankful to report things are working AWESOME. The 14V upgrade is sweet, everything works better. Holds a steady 16.5V at 7k rpm and after a few 18-20 psi rips the fuel pressure drops are gone and overall the pressure is much more consistent and steady. It may not work or be for everyone but damn, I would certainly recommend this.

pdxmotorhead

FWIW, If you buy your battery wire from a welding supplier you can get high strand count wire which carries current better and is not as rigid as the heavy wire from most auto parts sources. Welding suppliers also have some nice termination ends for the cables.

How does the Police cruiser alternator from the caprice police package compare, they are pretty beefy. I've never looked at one but understood they are in the 250A range.. The lights and radio gear pull significant power.. OOPS,, just remembered the break over on engine year. Nevermind..

One place the alternators give up is the rectifier, I had issues with a off road race truck and the way I fixed it was sourced new diodes that were faster/better technology had to re-machine the holes in the carrier to make them fit, would not be surprised if that's where these mass produced alts are weak. If you exceed the diodes specs they basically quit flowing power or start flowing some AC at worst case.

Note just pondering the potential issues ,, I work on a bunch of random stuff with "similar" issues.

Wonder if a really late model GM truck (like a 2018) maybe be better? the Direct injection really sucks power. But not sure if its backwards compatible.