Alternator dropping voltage at WOT only?
I didn’t spend that much. But it was more than enough to be hot.
ill see what they do. They have a pretty solid reputation. There’s always the douchebag move and do a charge back. I’ll give them a chance to figure it out though.
put the factory alternator back on and dealt with 13.3v and it stopping charging at 4800 for the day
ill see what they do. They have a pretty solid reputation. There’s always the douchebag move and do a charge back. I’ll give them a chance to figure it out though.
put the factory alternator back on and dealt with 13.3v and it stopping charging at 4800 for the day
DAMN! That sucks. But appreciate the info. Think I'm going to go the JS Alternator route.
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I had the owner/manager call me yesterday and discuss what he did/didn’t find. It was a catastrophic failure. Dead short. He said he is kind of bewildered why it did it. He can’t come up with any reason outside of a manufacturing flaw in the stator.
He is going to put it back together with all new parts. Even though he doesn’t usually have issues with how hard I’m spinning it, He is going to slow the alternator down a bit. Then went on to say he is going to beat the ever living snot out of it today to make sure it is 100% ready for me.
**** happens so I won’t count them out yet. Customer service is just as important as the product, and so far I’m happy they are doing what they can to figure out the issue.
I made them well aware there is a huge community of us fighting the same charging issues looking for a reliable fix 😂
He is going to put it back together with all new parts. Even though he doesn’t usually have issues with how hard I’m spinning it, He is going to slow the alternator down a bit. Then went on to say he is going to beat the ever living snot out of it today to make sure it is 100% ready for me.
**** happens so I won’t count them out yet. Customer service is just as important as the product, and so far I’m happy they are doing what they can to figure out the issue.
I made them well aware there is a huge community of us fighting the same charging issues looking for a reliable fix 😂
Man All the alternators I tried.. reman.. stock replacement, 145amp truck alternator... all of them had the same issue.
i spent more than the damn Mechman searching for alts. And the mechman was the only one charging at 6500rpms++.
guess I’m super unlucky
i spent more than the damn Mechman searching for alts. And the mechman was the only one charging at 6500rpms++.
guess I’m super unlucky
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
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From: Wichita, KS
You're not the only one brother! my power master still doesn't charge for ****.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 8,486
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From: Wichita, KS
A company like ICT billet could really jump on this and make some money! Make us a proper 3.25" alt pulley (or what ever size is needed). Changing a crank pulley is a PITA on most cars. Zipping off/ON an alt pulley is a 3 minute job! and then you aren't under-driving your water pump. Anyone have a contact? They are local to me I'll eventually make my over there and bug them.
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Verdad Gallardo Well I hope to be reporting back with good news regarding my own charging issues in the next few weeks. I ended up going with the powermaster 200 amp xs volt alternator and the larger 3" ebay pulley already posted here. Also decided to go to a 14V system at the same time so bought a D1400 and charger from XS Power. At 7500 rpm I'll only be spinning the alternator 17.5k based on my math. Fingers crossed this all works out as I have planned.
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I hear ya on harmonic balancer may not be the easiest to replace in certain setups. May be a larger alt pulley option https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...EaAvFbEALw_wcB
or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/krs-krc40150600
or https://www.summitracing.com/parts/krs-krc40150600
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This diameter alt pulley appears to match your max rpm requirements (dependent upon crank pulley diameter of course).
https://lsxinnovations.com/product/l...2-85-diameter/
https://lsxinnovations.com/product/l...2-85-diameter/
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 8,486
Likes: 1,032
From: Wichita, KS
This diameter alt pulley appears to match your max rpm requirements (dependent upon crank pulley diameter of course).
https://lsxinnovations.com/product/l...2-85-diameter/
https://lsxinnovations.com/product/l...2-85-diameter/
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Joined: Feb 2015
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This diameter alt pulley appears to match your max rpm requirements (dependent upon crank pulley diameter of course).
https://lsxinnovations.com/product/l...2-85-diameter/
https://lsxinnovations.com/product/l...2-85-diameter/
Mechman round 2! She looks brand new. Still have 4awg wiring with a remote battery so I’m debating on upgrading before I put it on. Gunna cost probably $2-300 to go to big stuff. Still in debate. I’d be good with 4awg with a engine bay mounted battery. But I’m REALLY pushing it with a 250a alt on a 20ft 4awg battery charge wire if it pulls anywhere near that at any point.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 8,486
Likes: 1,032
From: Wichita, KS
you can get 25' 0 gauge battery jumper cables for $37 shipped on amazon. Thats 50' of zero gauge wire! I ordered a set a few weeks back. Pretty good deal IMO.
you can get 25' 0 gauge battery jumper cables for $37 shipped on amazon. Thats 50' of zero gauge wire! I ordered a set a few weeks back. Pretty good deal IMO.
https://www.amazon.com/Voilamart-300...omotive&sr=1-6
https://www.amazon.com/Voilamart-300...omotive&sr=1-6
What you guys using for fuses/breakers with this big *** wire? I have a dedicated alt charge wire Back to the battery as well so I’ll have to buy another 25ft of 1 or 2awg.
Well thankfully my purchases paid off nicely. Fired the car and drive it around both Friday and Saturday. As noted above I ended up upgrading to a 14V system via an XS Power D1400 and then Power Master XS Volt 200 A adjustable alternator. I did all this because on the dyno I discovered I was having issues with battery voltage dropping into the 11's and I believed it was affecting fuel pressure as I had very short momentary drops in fuel pressure that seemed to correlate with the drop in pressure. Thankful to report things are working AWESOME. The 14V upgrade is sweet, everything works better. Holds a steady 16.5V at 7k rpm and after a few 18-20 psi rips the fuel pressure drops are gone and overall the pressure is much more consistent and steady. It may not work or be for everyone but damn, I would certainly recommend this.
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From: PDX-OR-USA
FWIW, If you buy your battery wire from a welding supplier you can get high strand count wire which carries current better and is not as rigid as the heavy wire from most auto parts sources. Welding suppliers also have some nice termination ends for the cables.
How does the Police cruiser alternator from the caprice police package compare, they are pretty beefy. I've never looked at one but understood they are in the 250A range.. The lights and radio gear pull significant power.. OOPS,, just remembered the break over on engine year. Nevermind..
One place the alternators give up is the rectifier, I had issues with a off road race truck and the way I fixed it was sourced new diodes that were faster/better technology had to re-machine the holes in the carrier to make them fit, would not be surprised if that's where these mass produced alts are weak. If you exceed the diodes specs they basically quit flowing power or start flowing some AC at worst case.
Note just pondering the potential issues ,, I work on a bunch of random stuff with "similar" issues.
Wonder if a really late model GM truck (like a 2018) maybe be better? the Direct injection really sucks power. But not sure if its backwards compatible.
One place the alternators give up is the rectifier, I had issues with a off road race truck and the way I fixed it was sourced new diodes that were faster/better technology had to re-machine the holes in the carrier to make them fit, would not be surprised if that's where these mass produced alts are weak. If you exceed the diodes specs they basically quit flowing power or start flowing some AC at worst case.
Note just pondering the potential issues ,, I work on a bunch of random stuff with "similar" issues.
Wonder if a really late model GM truck (like a 2018) maybe be better? the Direct injection really sucks power. But not sure if its backwards compatible.
Last edited by pdxmotorhead; Aug 11, 2020 at 12:48 AM.